VW New Beetle

have a friend hit the starter with a hammer while you try to start the vehicle. if that works to probably just need to clean the starter. if not your solenoid may be bad and that's an easy fix. you should before anything check to see that all wires supplying the starter and solenoid are tight and not corroded. one way to check the solenoid is to jump the two larger posts on the solenoid with a screw driver or something similar. if it start your solenoid is bad. good luck!

I am the poster of this question. Now that i have more space to actually describe what the problem is my question will be better understood. The car ran fine yesterday and the day before. But the temp has dropped so i am wondering if the starter is frozen, i put a heating pad on it and it didnt really help. Not sure if it was on long enough or made a good enough contact to the starter to really warm it up. But i was wondering if there is another way to unfreeze it ? All i hear is a single click from the starter when i turn the key. All lights and stuff are bright and besides the battery is brand new. This is the first time i have come across this but i know that its not unheard of. Just never had to deal with this before so any input would be greatly appreciated.

The 60-horsepower VW engine has a torque specification of 115 pounds at 2000 RPMs. The engine will have 130 pounds of torque at 2500 RPMs.

Adults eat pollen, flowers, nectar, and sometimes insects like aphids, with soft-bodies. Larvae eat mostly small animals found in the soil, but they may also eat roots and seeds.

It needs to be filled to the top notch (above the hatched section, but not above the notch) on the sqaured end of the dipstick. Make sure to wipe it clean and dip it with the engine off before reading your oil level.

Yes

According to the MANUAL (:-)) for the 2001 Beetle, most fuses are in a compartment at the left side of the dashboard. Place a screwdriver into the slot to pop the lid off. The Fuse Card identifies fuses with silly Symbols, and there is no Legend (on the card or in the Manual) indicating what they mean. There are also 3 or 4 fuses in a compartment atop the Battery-box, and there is no indication (symbolic or otherwise) of what they are for.
When you open the driver's side door, it is located on the side of the dash. Just pry the cover off with a screw driver. There should also be a diagram in the cover.

take the two bolts out of the front engine mounts ant pull the engine forward to replace

First you have to take the side panel where the seat belt is and lift up the whole piece will come out

This happens rarely, but has happened to me a few times. What I have learned is, I depress the pedal and start it up again, and this seems to work (leave the pedal depressed and release when it starts up).

i have the same problem on a friends vehicle. strange problem. i am going to look towards ground or a relay. i thought it may be a fuse but there is one fuse for each the left and right low beams. will let you know if i come up with anything. not sure when i am going to look at it. maybe tommorrow. p.s it turned out being the connector to the switch that turns on the lights was not connected properly. make sure the connector is tightly connected to the switch.

Blinker switch defective. This is not always the case. You could have one of many problems. Flasher bad, bad bulb, bad connections.....please check these before you go and replace a blinker switch.

you need to remove the tail light lens. There is a large round plastic cap located behind the lens in the truck .Remove the cap and there is a black plastic nut that you can remove by hand, that will release the lens and you will be able to replace the bulbs.

The Chrysler 2.4 liter engines make you remove the top plastic vanity plate and the 4 runner intake atop the engine. Each of these should be just a few bolts that are easy to access from the top. Once you get these off you should see the plugs and short wires to coil. Search web on PT Cruisers and you will find more info.

Start checking your fuse's one could be blown.

Also check for loose, or open connectors in the back. They might have been disconnected if any work was performed in that area of the car.

The VW Beetle has 2 jack points, one on each side to the rear of the front door. The body/pan assembly is ridged enough that this single jack point will lift the entire side of the car.

If your car is tatty, or does not have a jack point installed, place a floor jack under the front bulkhead of the car, and raise the entire front end.

Turn the airbag on , crash the car , try not to die this will get the airbag out grab a pair of siccors then snip like I snipped my foreskin

ASR stands for Anti-Slip Regulation. ASR detects wheel slippage and applies braking force to that particular wheel. That helps prevent skidding around corners and keeps you on track. It's basically a Stability Control feature.

The short answer... take it to the dealer.

Just spent the better part of 2 hours trying to remove the oil pan. You can access all but two bolts that are hidden up under the bell housing. I've tried every combination of 10mm socket with pivot connections, even tried a 5mm ball-ended Allen wrench in the head... just can't get access. Giving up... DONE!

The gas tank on the 2014 Volkswagen Beetle holds 14.5 gal..

take the cover off and you'll see the 3 in front the back is different you have to tke the coils off snd the plugs are underneath

1. Put the back of the car on jackstands. I like to take off the left rear tire at this point; you can reach the clutch arm on the transmission through the wheelwell if you do.

2. Reach through the wheelwell and feel around for the clutch arm--it's the only arm on the transmission, and it's got a cable coming out of it going toward the front of the car. You'll find either a big wingnut or two hex nuts jammed together on the cable; these are the adjusters. Whichever you find, remove them.

3. Open the hood and unhook the throttle cable from the carb.

4. Go into the cabin and remove the pedal cluster. Pull it out and you'll find one of two things: that the cable end broke, or that the arm that pulls it broke.

If the cable broke, pull it all the way out of the car. Get a new one and paint it. When the paint dries, put a little axle grease on it. Hold it in your left hand and put your left index finger CAREFULLY into the hole the pedal cluster goes into, feeling around. Eventually you'll find the end of a tube that doesn't have the throttle cable sticking out of it. Push the clutch cable into this hole.

If the arm broke, it's held into the pedal cluster with a bolt sticking out the side of it. Undo the bolt, remove the arm (since it's probably rusted in, you'll probably have to tap it out with a hammer), grease the shaft on a new one, stick it in where the old one was and replace the bolt you took out. I would recommend changing the clutch cable at the same time; this job is a big enough pain you don't want to do it repeatedly.

And as the Bentley Manual says, installation is the reverse of removal.

remove old window by first pulling out chrome strip if you have one, go inside and cut the old gasket in the middle with a sharp knife ( you will feel it hittng glass and metal frame then you know in right place) once gasket cut the widow till pop off from outside. but new gaskest on (new?) window, with center join melt joint a the bottom center. insert a good strong string into inner gasker groove ( I use tent rope, nice and strong) have threading start about 1/3rd in and go all the way around. crossing string over itself for at least 12 inches. spray inner groove and rope WELL with soapy water. lay window in place, with strings inside of car. As ANOTHER person gently yet firmly presses on out of window, start pulling one of the strings in the opposite direction so you are not pulling string though gasket but instead against the gasket forcing it to pull the gasket over ht cars window frame... ; this will pull the gasket over the window frame metal. about halfway through, switch over to other string, MAKE sure outside Helper is pressingagianst glass where you are pulling string. Top two corners the toughest, be sure lots of soapy water there.... once you have string pulled all the way arpung, window gasket should be set properly and window secure.

Look inside the trunk. On either side you will find oval shaped access panels. Carefully pry them off with a screwdriver - you'll see the slots where you should insert your screwdriver. Inside you'll find a large plastic nut. Remove the nut. From the outside of the vehicle, carefully pull the entire tailight assembly from the fender. It's a bit hard at first, but once you get a finger under the rubber weatherstripping you should be able to wiggle it loose.

If you are replacing the bulb, the plastic backing (reach behind the fog light) pivots about 15°degrees easily so dont force, and pulls off giving you access to the back of the bulb. Unlatch the small clip and bulb slides out..... With the backing off you also have access to the mount. I have a 1999 VW NB with fog lights and just recently had to deal with them. TIP: The air release hole ends up on top when backing is put back on.

The parking lights are turned on when the headlights are on and you pull out on the light switch. The parking lights cannot be turned on by themselves.