VW New Beetle

In the US it was a 15" by 4", later years went to 4.5".

go on www.tdiclub.com for information on all things relevent to VAG group TDI engines.

004 up to 1971, then 006 on

This condition is usually caused by high idle. Correct idle should be around 750-800 rpm. Also the idle solenoid could either be stuck or voltage is present(to the soleniod) when the ignition is off. Those carburetors are real touchy as they have more than one adjustment air screw. IVE SEEN EXCESSIVE CARBON IN COMBUSTION CHAMBER "GLOW",CAUSING ENGINE TO RUN ON,EVEN AFTER YANKING (ZAAPPP!)THE COIL WIRE.

Passenger side front of tran with 2wires

the generator output varies with engine speed, so the regulator makes sure the battery is always charging at around 14V, or it'd blow up. a 6V battery charges at 7V.

Points gap won't keep the car from cranking, and that's the problem here.

The first thing we're going to do is to eliminate the starter as your problem. Get a foot of wire and crimp two push-ons onto it. Jack and chock your car, and crawl under. (Make sure to use your best jackstands--if the car falls off you will be crushed.) Unhook the bendix wire from the starter, and hook the jumper up where it went. Then grab the other end of the jumper with insulated pliers, and touch it to the left-hand bolt on the solenoid. If it cranks, it's not the starter. If it doesn't crank, you could try a couple of things...like keeping the jumper hooked up while you rap on the starter with a hammer (to unstick it--you'd be shocked at how often that happens), or tightening the bolts holding it in just in case they got loose.

I have found that one of the more popular reasons Bugs don't crank, especially ones built in the 1960s, is the bendix wire has gained resistance. Enough extra resistance, and there won't be enough energy in the wire to kick the bendix. No kick, no crank. If the car will start by jumpering it and won't start with the key, you've got two ways to solve the problem. One is to run a new wire to the ignition switch. The other, which is what most people do, is to install a foglight relay down there.

It might just be the distributor gap is incorrect. Needs to be .016 Its hard to tell without hearing it try to start up.

Easy, put the car on ramps. Remove the sump guard plasctics. Drain the oil from the sump. Disconnect the oil level sensor wires. Undo the 3 bolts on the bell-housing that holds unto the sump, you will need a 5mm ball-end allen socket. Undo the 20, 10mm head bolts on the sump bottom. Remove the sump, you may need to tap with a soft-head hammer. This is one of the easiest sumps to remove with the engine in the car.

unknown top speed but fastest my truck has ever gone was 182km/h that was racing a corvette, I was in overdrive at 3700rpm, my truck is a stepside/fibreglass bed 105

Find a copy of the book "How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive: A Manual of Step-by-Step Procedures for the Compleat Idiot", it outlines the entire procedure in clear easy-to-follow steps. It also walks you through nearly every other aspect of VW maintainece and repair.

Unless it was built with high compression and or a "big" cam causing high cylinder pressures a stocker should suffice .

Hi, This how I understand the beginnings of Volkswagon. In the late 1930s, Adolf Hitler establishes a directive that Germans have an affordable "peoples car" a volkswagen. This is pre WWII. A corp. is established to design and build the cars. The engineer Freidrich Porsche (yes, the designer of todays Porsche sports car) designs the car. German citizens buy stock in the Volkswaen corp. Germany goes to war and plans for the car stop so that military vehicles can be manufactured. Germany loses the war and all the people lose their stock investments. As part of the rebuilding of Germany (the Marshall Plan), many corps., including Volkswagen, start up to employ people. Freidrich Porsche's original design (looks like todays 911 sports car) is used with modifications. It is a very inexpensive rear-engine vehicle. Freidrich Porsche leaves Volkswagen to establish Porsche sports cars, uses modifications of his volkswagen design to produce what we call todays 911. Volkswagen buys Audi. Freidrich Porsche is given an honorary doctorate before he dies.


EDIT: Volkswagen is part of the Volkswagen Group, It always was Volkswagen.

VW Group consists of Audi, SEAT, Skoda, Bugatti, Bentley, as well as Lamborgini, and for about a year VW were making cars for Roll-Royce
Adolf Hitler was trying to create a technocracy. Every family in his utopian fantasy would have their own car. He contacted Ferdinand Porsche, an automotive engineer Hitler admired, and asked him to design a car that could be made quickly and inexpensively. Hitler told him to make his car streamlined, like a beetle, for he would find that the best designs are all from nature. Hitler had the entire Nazi apparatus behind him, as you'd expect, and one of its organs was "Strength Through Joy," the Nazi recreation services organization. In German it's called "Kraft durch Freude." They were given the task of selling what was named the "KdF-Wagen." At the time, Germany was pulling itself out of a depression and people didn't have much money, hence couldn't afford cars. The KdF leadership came up with a creative plan: the KdF-Sparbuch. Sparbuch means "savings book." Its pages had 200 little squares. A KdF-sparer--someone saving for a KdF-Wagen--would buy stamps for his book at five marks per stamp, and glue them into the book. When you filled the book, they would give you the car. No production KdF-wagens were made because before they could, Hitler had invaded Poland and all the auto plants in Germany converted to production of military vehicles. The German Army even grabbed the prototypes! After the war was over, they had a lot of problems in starting production. The first problem was the unexploded thousand-pound bomb that had crashed through the roof of the KdF-wagen plant in Wolfsburg and lodged itself between two irreplaceable machines. Once they got that out, they couldn't find anyone to take the plant. Ford didn't want it. The British said they should have set the bomb off. Eventually they DID find someone to take the plant and start manufacturing Volkswagens... Oh, and the KdF-Sparbuch? They finally decided to accept them at face value toward the purchase of a Volkswagen.

A Beetle is like most cars when it comes to turn signals. Most likely you have a defective "turn signal relay switch" or it could be just a burned out brake light. Switch on your lights and have someone stand behind the car to sure everything is working. Turn Signals I own a 99 Beetle. If your fuses are fine, replace the flasher. All it took was $32.00 including tax at the dealer. The part you more than likely need to replace is the hazard light switch/flasher. To pull it, pry it out form the bottom with a small flat screw driver. Once it's all the way out, tilt the plug sideways so the wires wont't pull the plug inwards when you pull off the switch from the plug. Take the part to the parts department at your VW dealer (if you try lookiing for it at a junk yard it will probably de as old as the same part you are replacing) Plug it in till it clicks, tuck it in till it clicks. Turn the ignition on and try your turn signals.

in the fuse box panel under the dash on the right hand side near aldl link

Where the lower radiator hose comes into the water pump.

165R15.

29's - i have a 97 millenia and i had to visit the parts dept. at my local Mazda dealership with my registration in order to have an extra key made. my dealer had to send out for the key because it is cut differently from other keys and it cost me about 75 dollars.

No you can not over ride the shift interlock. You can manually over ride it, but you will have to do it again every time the vehicle gets stuck in park. There is a recall on that specific part. I suggest going to your local dealership and having them fix it once and for all.

First, this is a job that's easier to do when it's cold outside--so if it's cold outside where you are and your front bearings need replaced, go for it. I'll explain why it's easier in just a second. Start by jacking up the car and removing the wheel. You'll notice a dust cap in the middle of the brake drum. Pry it off--use anything you want, like a crowbar, a big screwdriver or the nail puller end of a claw hammer. If it's the one on the left side (or the right side if the car is right-hand drive), you'll have to remove the clip that holds the speedometer cable in place. HANG ON TO THIS CLIP!!! If you put the car back together without it, your speedometer will quit working. The brake drum is held onto the car with a retaining nut, which is pinched onto the axle with a socket cap screw. Loosen the cap screw (allen wrench--I think 6mm) then remove the nut. The one on the left side of the car is left-hand thread. Grab the brake drum--gloves would be good--and tug it sharply toward you, then push it back in. The inner race comes right out, as well as this big washer that sits between the nut and the bearing. Doing this usually totally wrecks the inner race, but you're replacing it anyway. Remove both of them from the axle, then slip the brake drum off. Finally, slip the inner race of the inner bearing off the axle. Now is the time to inspect your brake shoes and the drum. If you've got ridges or grooves that will catch a fingernail in the drum, or the friction surfaces on your shoes are 1/16" or less thick, this is now a brake job and you need more parts. If they're okay, lay the drum on the ground with the brake side up and look in the hub. You'll notice two slots you can see the bearing through. Use a three-pound sledgehammer and either a dull cold chisel, a big punch or a big screwdriver you don't mind ruining the tip of, and knock the outer race out of the drum. Go back and forth between the two slots. This is where it being cold outside helps: when metal gets cold it contracts, and that slight contraction makes knocking the race out of the drum a lot easier. Next, compare the bearing you bought to the one you just knocked out of the drum. Are the outer races the same? If they are, flip the drum over, set the outer race where it goes, and try to put the inner race in. If it does not go, flip the outer race over. It is thoroughly possible to put these things in upside down and if you do you need to buy another new bearing. When you put this in, set it in place and tap-tap-tap it in--tap in one place, move straight across from it and tap again, move 90 degrees and tap again, go across from that and tap again...just tap, don't hit hard. Now you need to pack the bearings. Volkswagen does things differently here--they put the grease in the hub. not the bearing. What I do here (okay, I'll admit it: I pack the bearing too--it doesn't hurt) is to first apply some grease to the inner race of the inner bearing, and stick the race back in the bearing where it goes. This kinda glues it in. I then pack a whole lot of synthetic grease in the hub. Regular lithium axle grease works too. I put the brake drum back on the axle, being exceedingly careful not to get grease on the inside of the brake drum or the shoes because lubricating brakes makes them not work. A lot of the grease comes out, so I shove as much as I can back in. Finally, I put the inner race of the outer bearing in place, then reinstall the washer and nut. Now it's time to set endplay. The easiest way to do this if you don't have a dial indicator is to try to move the washer around by prying its edge with a screwdriver. If it moves real easy, there's too much play. If it won't move at all, there's not enough. If it just barely moves, you're good. Tighten the cap screw, replace the dust cap, and put the wheel back on.

Without more information about the type of engine, and the vehicle it is in, all you can expect to get is generic information. Generally, with the engine cold. You need to remove the spark plug wire from the plug, twisting while pulling on the "boot" not the wire! Next find the correct spark plug socket,(one that the new spark plug fits into, AND holds the spark plug. Now make sure the place that the old spark plug is screwed into is clean, using compressed air blow out around the old spark plug to keep dirt and sand from falling into the cylinders (scoring/scratching the life out of them!) Using a 3/8" drive rachet, an extention and the spark plug socket, put the socket in the hole that you removed the spark plug wire from and turn the socket counter clockwise until the spark plug is free. Inspect the spark plug for unusual wear, or deposits this could be a sign of engine problems. Take the new spark plug check the gap!! if it is correct place it in the socket and start theading it in the spark plug hole by hand, turning it clockwise. Tighten the plug firmly, but not till all the veins pop out of your face. Reinstall the sparkplug wire you should feel it snap onto the end of the spark plug. Continue on with each of the other spark plugs making sure to always put the exact same wire onto the plug you took it off of.

Note it is a good idea to put a small amount off anti-sieze compound on the threads of the new spark plugs to aid in the installation and removal. Also when reinstalling the spark plug wires use some silicone grease in the boot so that next time the boots will pull off easily.

I hope this is some help. Melvis

In order to turn off the "Check Engine Light", you or a trusted mechanic check the Onboard Diagnostics (OBDII) OBDII uses a "code reader" which plugs into your car (usually in the dashboard, or near the radio...) and that tells you what "malfunction" is setting your Check Engine Light off.

Basically, if there is a fault in any computer controlled system (fuel, ignition, SRS (airbag), emissions etc) the Electronic Control Unit (ECU) sends a code to the OBD unit... Then the code reader breaks down the fault, it's location and usually (with a good reference manual) you can remedy the problem (or at least narrow it down!)

Good luck and by the way, you can purchase OBDII Code Scanners starting at $99 or so from a ton of auto parts places, if you're a DIYer...

Best

Spencer

I just did this in a 1993 SW2 and I'm assuming that the door construction is relatively the same.

1. Remove the mirror. You'll need a Philips screw driver, a set of small Allen keys and a 10mm metric wrench. First remove the interior trim by undoing the screw and detaching the mirror adjustor (assuming manual here) using the appropriate Allen key. Next remove the insulation and detach the 3 nuts holding the mirror using the 10mm wrench being carefull not to drop the nuts. The mirror should pull off with a gentle tug.

2. Remove the exterior door skin. You'll need a Torx screwdriver . On the inside edge of the door you'll see a series of black headed flat screws that fit a Torx screwdriver and hold the exterior skin on. Remove these. Remove the door handle by lifting up on it and carefully pulling the 2 pins from the bottom. Next slide the door handle to the left and it should come off rather easily. Finally, remove the black window gasket where the door panel meets the bottom of the window. Do this by pulling up firmly on the gasket. Once this is removed the door panel should pull off with gentle force exposing the inside of the door.

3. Remove the interior door panel. You'll need a Philips screwdriver for this. First, detach the mechanism for the interior door handle and lock accessed from the exerior. There are little clips that you'll need to detach before you can pull the rods out. Now, from the interior remove the door handle and trim by removing the 3 screws and then sliding the unit forwards and prying outwards. Once complete, gently pull the interior door panel off by prying at the edges.

Remove the lower space frame supports on the exterior. You'll need a 10mm wrench. There are 2 rods held onto the door with 3 bolts that come from the bottom corners to the middle door support. Remove these.

5. Remove the power window motor and regulator as one unit. You'll need a drill, drill bits and a 10mm wrench. Drill out the 4 rivets holding the motor and regulator mechanism to the door. Undo the 2 bolts holding the lower regulator track. Carefull that the window does not fall down at this point. Finally, slide the wheels out of the upper regulator track that is attached to the window. This will take a bit of patience.

6. Install the new window motor and regulator using 4 x 10mm long bolts and locknuts where the rivets were drilled out and then reverse the steps above to reassemble the door.

In my experience I determined that there are 2 types of window motor/regulator parts. If the new one is not the same a the old then you'll need to reverse the upper regulator track attached to the window. This requires a specialized tool which you may be better off bringing the window into a auto glass shop so they can do this. There is enough room to drop the window out the bottom of the door by turning it sideways and carefully manouvering it.

Good Luck

The relay is located with several other relays hidden behind a panel in the drivers foot well. Three torx screws will remove the black panel above the brake/gas pedals. The relays are located on the left behind the ODBC connector. The wiper relay is the long rectangular one.

check the fluid level on the brake system...also check all the fuses...also You should be able to find a shop manual at your local library with the right info...make copies as they are usually only in the REFERENCE section....good luck:)

The thermostat is located on the front of the motor, just to the right of the alternator. If you stand in front of the car looking at your motor, you will see a radiator hose that goes from the bottom of the radiator to the the block. Where it connects to the block is where the thermostat housing is. Its plastic and has two 10mm bolts holding it in place. It can be a little bit of a pain to replace, but with some sockets, extensions and even a swivel, you should be able to get it done no problem...