VW New Beetle

If its a 4 speed automatic 01m tranny there isn't a dipstick, you must have it on a level surface, have the tranny at roughly 30 Celsius....and crack the drain plug , if it drips its full

Loosen the screw on the barrel nut on the left side of the carbeurator and pull the cable loose from the assembly. Be sure you don't lose the barrel nut assembly. Now, get a light and stick your head down by the accelerator pedal. Pull the pedal forward and you will see a roller on top of the pedal lever. Along the hump adjacent to the pedal Umaybe inder a little carpet) you will see a tube with the cable coming out of it. Trace it to the side of the pedal lever. Take note of how it goes it. it is a dog-leg fiting that slips into the pedal lever and is held by pressure. Work it out of the hole.

Now get your shiny new cable (you got the right one, yes?) and slip the straight end into the little tube and begin pushing it back toward the engine. I use teflon marine grease sparingly to lubricate and protect the cable. It will exit IN FRONT OF the fire wall. I like to have an assistant watch for it with a light at the back of the car. Now the tricky part. You have to feed the shiny new accelerator cable into the guide tube that goes from the rear (toward the back of the car) and around the fan housing. If you ever see your engine on a stand you will see how this tube works and you will wonder why you made this part so hard. Be patient and have a lot of light so you can see what you are doing. One strategy is to use a thin wire and feed it from the rear, through the tube, and use it as a fish wire for the new cable.

Having fed the cable all the way to the accelerator insert the metal stud at the end of the wire into the barrel nut and adjust the free play. Work the pedal several times to make sure it moves smoothly. This is very important since any catching will result in unpleasant collisions. Start it up and motor away confidently.

Are you using the auto key to unlock it, then minutes later being locked out without you doing anything? If so, I had the same problem. Best way I found to deal with it is to be sure to start the car after you unlock it. Even if you then turn it off and leave the car, it will not automatically lock again until you have again pressed the unlock button on your auto key.

d,ont know help

Very carefully. The ends closest to the opening come straight out, but the sides you need to pry out to the right and left, not down. I took mine off and the fasteners broke off because I tried to pry down on them. Just be careful!!!!

PD = Pump Duese = type of fuel injector used on the TDI engine.

10.6 U.S. gallons (40 liters: 8.8 Imp gallons)

Hope that helps you.

How about the capacity of the radiator... oh wait.... AIR COOLED POWER BABY!

For my 1998 VW new beetle

My car had this problem. It worked 80% of the time. I used the radio most of the time but when I started to listen to some CDs, I would get errors and the whole thing would just freeze. I started having overheating issues with my car so I had a mechanic fix the problem. While fixing the overheating problems, the mechanic also discovered there was an electrical error and he detached my stock radio/cd changer and said it was causing some of the problems. I purchased and installed a brand new CD/AUX/USB/RADIO deck myself and now my cruise control and rear defrost works perfectly. The mechanic said he wasn't surprised that the new electrical piece he replaced fixed those minor problems.

Unless you've got a machine shop you don't, trade it in for a rebuit unit. I use CIP1.com, decent prices good quality parts. (no I don't own their stock...)

1. Pull the hood release lever located under the dashboard.

2. Walk around to the front of the car, reach under the hood, find the latch and squeeze it. Open the hood.

3. Find the spark plugs, located in a row along one side of the engine (on an in-line four-cylinder engine) and attached to thick wires, called spark plug wires. Cars with V-shaped engines (which can have four, six or eight cylinders) will have spark plugs and spark plug wires on both sides of the engine.

4. Change one spark plug at a time, always putting the plug wire back on before changing the next spark plug.

5. Pull off one spark plug wire where it attaches to the plug. There is a little rubber boot at the plug end of the wire; pull on this part. Pulling higher up on the wire can damage the spark plug wire and cause it to separate.

6. Blow or wipe away any dirt or debris around the spark plug. You do not want anything to fall into the cylinder while the spark plug is out.

7. With the spark plug socket and a ratchet, remove the spark plug by turning it in a counterclockwise direction. You may need an extension for your ratchet if the spark plugs are deep-set or not directly accessible. Ratchets with flexible heads are especially helpful for hard-to-reach spark plugs.

8. Check the spark plug to make sure it needs replacing. A good spark plug should be lightly coated with greyish brown deposits. If heavy deposits are present, if the spark plug is black or if the electrode or core nose are damaged, the plug needs to be replaced.

Video - www.carbasics.co.uk - look in the 'how to' section.

I just removed the drivers side panel the other day. There are 3 torques type screws on the bottom of the panel and 2 on the handle. I didn't realize they were there at first, not until I noticed the panel pulling away on the sides and not the center. Anyway, you must remove the handle cover to access the 2 screws. Simply pry it out, it just pops inplace with clips. Once you have the all the screws out, lift up slightly on the panel to clear it of the window trim and lock rod now pull it back and disconnect all the wires and door latch cable and you are done. Removing the speakers is a different animal all together. I hope this was some help.

under the right panel, just forward of the passenger side door, should be 2 blue connectors with a cover on them. You may have to remove to panel to gain access. If you purchase a book for the car, say one at an autoparts store it will show you where the plugs are and give you the error codes.. You may also pull the codes out by jumping off two of the wires.

hi not sure if its the same but on my o3 model it is on the right hand side of the battery it is an aluminium finned type looking box hope this helps les

open the hood and take the screw out that holds the strap which wraps around the glove box. Remove the glove box and set aside in the hood area being careful not to break the plastic hood cable tube. You will be able to see where the glove box latch spring tab is keeping the door shut. Squeeze the latch and push to open the door.

Replace the lock assembly by removing the large nut on back of the glove box door and reinstall new one. align the door properly with the 4 phillips screws on the door and trial fit. Once it works properly reinstall the glove box and strap.

Open it up and I am sure you will find just one and you will then know how many and the correct size to buy.

Might be due to both the headlight bulbs being burnt out. Need to check fuses also.

A very long time -- since the 1960s for the ladybug-reminiscent Beetle of the twentieth century -- is the length of time that a Beetle Bug lives. The Volkswagen in question receives typically rave reviews for its owner-friendly design and mechnical longevity. Since their first production in 1938, Volkswagen's Bugs, from the original Type 1 to the New Beetle, tend to impress with parts that can be serviced by custom mechanics or non-mechanical owners.

About 7.4 for TurboS with 180hp and 8.5 for a Turbo with 150hp.

The pedals are always in the same order regardless of which side you sit. So the gas pedal will be furthest to the right.

This is my question and I figured it out. You remove a spring clip located in the end of the intake tube where the hose goes in. Then you are supposed to be able to pull it. Mine had been in so long it was stuck. I had to take the turbo intake tube off (no small feat) and get it on the work bench. Then I bumped the hose loose from the tube with a punch. Every thing went together better than it came apart. I suggest most people leave this job to a Volkswagen mechanic.

One :-)

look at the top of where the serpentine belt is located. there is a pulley (called belt tensioner)with a square nipple sticking out the top of it. find a wrench the size of the nipple(via 3/4 or 7/8 etc..)and push towards the back of the car to loosen belt. now remove belt. now line up new belt following the belt route located under the hood. push the tensioner pulley back and pull belt on top pulley, making sure belt is still on all of the other pulleys hint: sometimes you have to take out the inner fender of the front right tire out and put a clamp on the belt and main pulley to hold it in place before you continue installing the rest of the belt.

It's slightly more difficult than changing the headlight bulbs. You need to remove the light housing (not whole assembly just foglight) it should only be a few screws. After that it is pretty self explanatory just remove the clip and twist the old bulb out. Do the opposite to put new ones in.

buy a new one