VW New Beetle

Physically fit? Yes, if it isn't a bus or a type III. There are some adjustments / changes you have to make to get it running and working well.

It is located on the transmission case underneath the car. There should be a wire with an in-line fuse on the right side of the engine. If you are having a problem with the reverse lights not coming on, check this fuse first. It is more likely to go bad before the switch does. On the switch itself, there will be a couple of wires coming off of it. One for power going to the switch, the other leads to the backup lights. There SHOULD BE a rubber boot that covers these wire connections, but it may have come off over time. This switch just simply unscrews from the transmission case. Hope this helps.

Hold your clutch disc sideways. The middle hub sticks out farther on one side than on the other. The side it's sticking out farthest on goes toward the transmission. Don't worry...if you put it on upside down the pressure plate won't fit, which is your signal to flip the disc over. The important thing is to be sure you have the hole in the clutch disc exactly aligned with the hole in the gland nut...if you don't, the engine won't go back in.

I replaced the directional lever in my 05 new beetle and watched the subaru trained mechanic closely. You can either remove the airbag assembly or disconnect it.. The sensors crash sensors might be the cause but if you want the light out you have to remove the steerign wheel (easy to do) there are two releases that release the cover over the wheel . they are compression releases not torques or screw heads. you apply pressur eon them and they will release and you will see the clock spring and the air bar and horn wires. if you disconnect the battery you will NEVER set off the airbag.... (keep that in mind) dont break the plastic clocksprign its an expensive part. keep the wheel in one position once you have started disassembly...

very carefully. :)

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look for any bolt/nuts, holding the cover. Then pull it gently towards you/up.

Take the rear light screws out of the corners of the crome backing. For bulb information see related link below.

Just a FYI for everyone. The following reset my service computer on my 2007 VW Passat 2.0T:

1) Hold down the wrench button (right hand of the trip reset button).

2) While holding the wrench button, turn on the ignition.

3) The computer will now show something like: 'Service Now'.

4) Release the wrench button.

5) Now, press and release the the min (right hand of the h button).

6) Turn off the ignition.

7) Done. The service computer is now officially reset. ENJOY :)

You will need two keys for this.

1. Insert the first key into the ignition, turn the ignition on (engine off)

2. Exit vehicle, LOCK drivers door with 2nd key (to be programmed).

3. Press UNLOCK on transmitter, wait 3 seconds, press UNLOCK on transmitter.

4. Horn should sound to indicate successful programming.

5. Key off, test remotes.

According to KBB.com the suggested retail value of a 99 beetle in excellent condition is around $6700.

Now if you were buying from a private party, it would be around $5000 in excellent condition, $4500 in good condition and $3900 in fair condition.

They make a tool to push the calipers in and can be bought at most auto parts stores and some will rent them. Some people use a c-clamp to push them back in.

I have one and as far as I can tell, it is from putting COOLANT in the reservoir that is NOT the correct type. The COOLANT it states is only compatible and should ONLY be used for this car is ONLY available at the VW dealer. It could also be flashing because there is a problem with your cooling system, which would need to be checked out at your local dealer or service center. A lot of service centers do NOT have the capabilities to work on Volkswagons unfortunately, so at SOME point-you're forced to deal with a dealer; I'm selling mine because I don't like that part of the deal!

I will give one caveat: I have never worked on a new VW Beetle. That said, I believe that you have either degraded wiring from chafing, or you blew a bulb and it shorted out and damaged your wiring or bulb mount. I would examine the connector for metallic debris, or melting that has allowed the contacts to short out intermittently. If that is the case, then you can either replace the harness (around $40 from the dealer, probably), attempt to locate one used ($25?), or try using some insulator (epoxy, tape, JB Weld, etc...) -to repair the mount. If the wires are chafed and have bare spots, they may be taped or new wires spliced in. You will have to remove the harness to examine it, and I would suggest you use a loom or stay to secure the wire from further damage. This could be less than fun, but I am pretty confident that you can do it, if you will be patient. I could do it in about an hour or two, so I would allow myself about 8-9 hours because it never seems to work out the way you plan. Remember: Fuses blow because of an overcurrent condition and that can be dangerous to you and your car. Also, make sure that there isn't a recall on the problem, before you try and fix it yourself. It is so much nicer to let somebody else do it... Good Luck!

there is a curved lever inside the engine compartment or each light casing. Lift it up. This releases the headlight assembly enough to reach a precision flathead in the face of the vehicle around the headlight to push up four tabs releasing the headlight lense allowing the bulbs to be changed. Careful with the lever and the lense, they are designed weak and the adhesive holding the lense may come apart. Installing is the reverse. Slide in the snaps and push gently while pushing the lever back down.

It takes alot of work and several hours (6-7 usually). You basically have to remove most of the front end of the car. You need to take out the headlights, sidemarkers, the whole front bumper assembly. then lay the radiator down (still attached to the ac hoses and most wires but disconnect the radiator hoses). DO NOT disconnect any ac hoses or you will have to later recharge the system. You also have to remove the idler pulley to get to the top bolt of the alternator. Good luck. I just changed my first one last nite!

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That's the watercooled instructions. For aircooled it is a lot different.

Unhook the battery first. Then remove the alternator belt and the carb, followed by the alternator strap, the wiring going to the alternator, the hood and the intake manifold. (Hint: this is a real good time to put urethane intake manifold boots on.) Next, remove all the bolts holding the fan shroud in and lift the fan shroud, with alternator attached, out of the car. Remove the four 10mm bolts and take out the alternator. Unbolt the fan from the alternator, and it's out. (At this point I would change the spark plugs because without all the ton of metal in the way, it's a lot easier.)

Installation is the reverse of removal.

Here's one method that will work. I have used it in several vehicles. You will need several relays. It depends on your vehicle as to how many but it's at least 2 and not more than 4. The relays are 12 volt relays. You can get them at an auto supply store or Radio Shack. One note on the relays... Do NOT get fog light relays. These have a metal case and the metal case is one of the relay connections. For the left side connect one side of the relay coil to the left turn signal and one side to the brake light. For the right side connect one side of the relay coil to the right turn signal and one side to the brake light. For the marker lights connect the coil of a relay to both sides of a marker light on the van. This step is only needed if you have low side (ground) switching or with some bulb monitoring circuits. For all relays connect one side of the relay contacts to a 12 volt source and the other side to the appropriate wire on the trailer harness. Some relays have a 'normally open' and 'normally closed' set of contacts. Use the normally open set. My above method is for using the vehicle to tow with. If you are towing the Golf that's a different wiring hook up. I'll whatch the board here to see if you need that info.

The water pump in a 2000 VW New Beetle is driven by the timing belt. I know this because I have a 2000 Beetle GLS and I am smack dab in the middle of the job of replacing my water pump. I have little automotive experience but I am mechanically minded and have some good friends that are mechanics that can help me out of a jam if I need it. I have changed a few water pumps on other cars in the past but have never done a timing belt. I just rolled over 100K miles on my car and so I guess this job is par for the course. While you are replacing the water pump you will want to replace the timing belt and timing belt tensioner. I am also replacing the serpentine belt since it has to come off anyway. There seems to be quite a bit of stuff to remove just to get to the timing belt but if you have patience and durable knuckles you can get 'er done. I have another car to drive in the meantime which makes it so that I don't have to rush this job. I don't think you'd want to tackle this yourself if you HAD to have the car running again right away. If you go to the Bentley Publisher's website and go to their forums you can find almost step-by-step instructions from other users on how to do this job. That, along with a Chilton manual is how I'm going at this.

Good luck! The water pump in a 2000 VW New Beetle is driven by the timing belt. I know this because I have a 2000 Beetle GLS and I am smack dab in the middle of the job of replacing my water pump. I have little automotive experience but I am mechanically minded and have some good friends that are mechanics that can help me out of a jam if I need it. I have changed a few water pumps on other cars in the past but have never done a timing belt. I just rolled over 100K miles on my car and so I guess this job is par for the course. While you are replacing the water pump you will want to replace the timing belt and timing belt tensioner. I am also replacing the serpentine belt since it has to come off anyway. There seems to be quite a bit of stuff to remove just to get to the timing belt but if you have patience and durable knuckles you can get 'er done. I have another car to drive in the meantime which makes it so that I don't have to rush this job. I don't think you'd want to tackle this yourself if you HAD to have the car running again right away. If you go to the Bentley Publisher's website and go to their forums you can find almost step-by-step instructions from other users on how to do this job. That, along with a Chilton manual is how I'm going at this.

Good luck!

Take tire off, make sure vehicle is secure so it won't fall on your head... Need a 7 mm hex tool, remove plastic caps on two bolts on back side of caliper. Loosen both bolts and slide caliper off. Need tool to squeese the caliper piston back to full seating to allow enough room for the new brake pads. Place new pads just the same way as old pads, note this before removing old pads. Slide caliper on and start bottom caliper bolt first, is tough to get threads started. Get underneath and look up to see bolt and threads, then start top bolt and tighten. Put on wheel and torque wheels per spec.... Be sure to check brake fluid level.....

on top of the differential, near firewall, under/inside a foil bag. Black plastic, right angle, screw-on part

Yeah, there is no dip stick, You first must make sure car is level, (on jack stands) Warm car up. Use a cooking temperature gage and stick it in front fill spout , (it has red tamper seal on it) and it is hard to get to. Temperature must be between 95-113 degrees (trans oil) shift gears all the way threw and then shut car off . Then un screw inspection screw on back of transmission. Now if no oil seeps out then add some a little at a time. If it pours out, then drain it till it drips, but it should not pour out unless someone recently put to much oil in it. You want just a small drip to come out and it should be the proper level, the liter of special trans axel oil you must get from dealer, and you guessed it, yeah 20.00 bucks a liter. You will also need a extra long flex funnel

Soundlike yu need new fuel injectors, that's pretty much the worst problems those engines ever have, the part is about $300 but alot of labor.

Remove and clean the EGR valve with carb or brake cleaner, and buy the upgraded screen gasket. It probably is stuck part way open or has a bit of carbon stuck in it. This is much more common than faulty injectors which are actually easy to change as they are in the throttle body assembly.

I would really doubt that removing 3 of 6 plug wires has no effect on the idle.

Traction is one reason, as the engine and transmission are on top of the drive wheels. Another reason was that the engine and transmission could be built, installed, and replaced as a packaged unit. That also freed up more room for the occupants. The rear engine location allowed for the frontal area of the car to be lowered, giving the car a more (for the 1930's) aerodynamic shape. The car needed all the aerodynamic help it could get, as it was intended to carry 2 adults, 2 children, and their luggage down the road at 100km/h on a budget, all with Depression Era technology.

The drawbacks to rear engine designs include: 1) Poor engine access. 2) Tricky handling at the vehicle's limits unless there is careful engineering and suspension setup. 3) More involved linkages for transmission and engine controls. 4) As the front wheels turn side to side for steering, the front wheel wells must be big enough to accommodate them, leaving less room for the fuel tank, spare tire, and luggage.

Those drawbacks became less acceptable in economy cars as time went on, for advances in constant velocity axle joints enabled engineers to economically mount engine and transmission over the front driven wheels, giving compact cars rear engine-like traction, but with more luggage room, more forgiving handling, and better engine access.

ive heard its under the dash/steering wheel

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Same thing happens to my 2004 Passat. It only happens when the car has been exposed to direct sunlight and made hot. When it is cool it has never happened.