VW Rabbit

Which motor mount? There are four.

One in the front is nothing more than a boot that covers a bracket, attached through the alternator pivot mounting bolt( the one that goes through the block and alternator) and the block, that hits a cup in the nose clip of the car. Easy to remove because two bolts hold the cup to the nose clip and then two bolts hold the mount piece to the block.

Another is mounted to the top of the transmission and bolts to a bracket just below the air box (assuming you have CIS). Also easy as you just put a jack under the tranny, jack up a little bit and pull the bolt out. You then unbolt the mount assembly from the tranny with four bolts.

A third is mounted right where the transmission's bell housing meets the block and it bolts up to the bottom of the car. Very easy. Just four bolts from the bottom of the car and then unbolt it from the bell housing.

The final one, located inside the passenger side fender, is the biggest pain because you have to remove all the belt covers, the belts, probably the AC compressor and jack up the engine (not the car, the engine) enough to put slack on that mount so the bolt slides out.

No way really. It could be swapped out. Sometimes it is marked on the registration papers, but there is no guarantee it is the same motor. Engines wear out and are changed.

The firing order on a rabbit is 1-3-4-2 gas or diesel.

Replacing the side mirror will cost approximately $200. You can save is much as $125 by replacing the mirror yourself.

I've had my Rabbit PU for 11 years. I always use 15W 40 oil made for Diesel engines.

1 gallon, with a filter change.

not under the hood

Yes it is towards the cam gear.

because they browse rather than feed in bulk and so need to eat little and often because that's what their digestive system does.

When you sit in the car, it used to be down where your gas pedal leg is....or it is in the engine compartment.

Manual says 0.8mm or 0.031in

The fuse panel can be accessed by removing two set screws underthe steering column. remove the panel held on by the two screws and the fuse block will be to the left side of the column.

Timing light. The instructions are on the engine hood.

I just finished replacing mine in my 80 diesel rabbit w/ AC. You're suppose to take the entire dash out, but I did it the red-neck way... First I removed the heater box clips (I believe there are about 6 that you can get to around the front and back of the box). Then you'll have to break the glue that seals the heater box halves together.**Be Aware: if the core has been leaking for a while it's going to dump all that anti-freeze onto the floorboard, so have a bunch of newspaper down. Now the fun part!! You have to pry the heater box apart as far as you can without breaking it (just far enough to yank the old core out and, as carfully as possible, put the new one in). The core isn't faceted to anything in the heater box, so once I had the box spread to a descent gap (appx. 6-7 inches). I disconnected the radiator hoses in the engine compartment that go through the firewall to the heatercore. Then I disconnected them from the heater core itself (beware more spilling of anti-freeze will occure once you remove these 2 hoses). Finally, I yanked the old heater core out through the gap I made in the heater box and AS GENTLY AS POSSIBLE pushed the new one back in. Once I had the new heatercore in place, I had to push the 2 halves of the heater box back together while re-attaching the clips that hold them together (would have been much easier with 2 people). Then I re-attached the hoses to the heater core and to their counter parts in the engine compartment, and reattached any other peices of plastic that had to be cleared (e.g. the one that covers the hose connection to the heater core). If you did it right and didn't damage the new heater core (too badly) when you put it back in, you should be all set to go! But I warn this is not the textbook method, and you could damage the new core or other parts if you're not careful!!! The whole thing took me about 5-6 hours to complete, which was great compared to the 12 it would have taken me had I taken the whole dash out(not to mention the $400+ bucks it saved me). Hope it helps! -Patrick

its in front of the engine, very easy actually. once you find it, theres a smaller grooved plastic nut on the bottom, twist it off and there is an orange or green nipple inside of it, use a flathead screw driver to gently pry it to up and to the side so the remaining oil inside pours out. then twist off the entire housing and pull straight off, replace the filter inside, rubber seal, and the nipple underneath and screw the nut back on the bottom and replace the housing. and you done.

Could be bad compression, with a bad head this problem gets worse with higher temperatures. Hard starting at hot could be a failing ignition coil, does the engine miss under load at hot? It could also be a failed fuel pressure accumulator or fuel check valve. Scrooch under car, find the fuel accumulator ahead of rear wheels on passenger side. Next to the fuel pump (the noisy unit humming along during operation) there is a can with 2 lines going into it. It's smaller than a soup can. If the car has high miles I would just replace the accumulator as it will probably have failed in the 28year old car. If replacing the accumulator doesn't help, replace the check valve on the fuel pump.

they twist counter clockwise (i beleive) to take them out. i would unplug them first. there is no need to take the headlight out. but if you must know how to take the headlight out. you need to take off the front bumper, and there's a bolt right at the bottom of the housing.

To change the headlamp bulb first turn on the lights so they are flipped up. Find the 4 bolt screws on the top left and right side of the light, being carefull not to snap them when you remove them. Once removed the cover for the light will come off alowing you accses to change the bulb. Edit: The GT model, at least, does not have the pop-up headlights. For bulb replacement, simply twist the old bulb about 1/4 turn (remove power plug first, if possible, but you can pull it out in situ if you have problems). It's fairly easy to do (no screws, just the plug).

It can only means that it has hurt itself.See the related questions below for more detailed help.

It depends on whether you have a newer model which uses the breakerless ignition, or the older versions which use points. This method is for the newer models. If you are lucky enough to have the newer model, connect your timing light per manufacturer's directions with the test lead clamped close to the #1 spark plug. Locate the timing hole in the transaxle - should be below the wide black plastic air-intake tube. Unscrew the plastic plug (counter clockwise) and stow it in a safe place. Disconnect and plug the vacuum advance hose going to the distributor. Start the engine (in Neutral, with the handbrakes on!). Once the car reaches normal operating temperature (fan should come on perhaps twice) point the timing light into the hole while squeezing the trigger. You will have to try to get the light just right so you can see both the fly wheel and a little pointer on the inside edge of the hole. The timing light pulses will show you whether the timing mark is lined up with the pointer. If it is lined up you are set. Otherwise you need to turn off the engine, then using a 13mm wrench, loosen the distributor clamp (at the base of the distributor), to where you can turn it with some effort. Start the engine and while shining the light into the hole, carefully turn the distributor while holding the base and not the cap, or you will probably have a shocking experience. While turning the distributor, you will want to make sure the timing mark (either a line, or a notch on the edge of the flywheel) is moving toward the pointer. Also, be careful to stay out of the way of the radiator fan, as it may come on without warning and scare the dickens out of you at best, or cut you up at worst. Once you get the marks lined up, carefully tighten the distributor clamp (13mm wrench), reattach the vacuum advance hose, replace the timing hole plug, and you are done. Note: Your engine idle speed must already be correct for this to be precise. You can use a dwell/tachometer to check your idle if you don't have a tach already. Idle speed should be on a sticker on the inside of the hood. Hope this helps

The location of the fuel pump relay on 1983 Rabbit GTI is in the fuse box located between the pedals and the steering wheel, you will have to remove a plastic cover to acces the fuse box

its the traction control on/off button

go to radio shack

Wild rabbits are usually brown or a dark color. Snow hares are white in winter to blend in with the enviroment. If you are talking about domestic rabbits then it depends on the breed. There is a variety of colors!

Fuel tank