VW Rabbit

• 1

  Enter the VW Rabbit with the ignition key.

• 2

  Close the door.

• 3

  Hold down the odometer trip reset button. This button is on the right side of your instrument panel.

• 4

  Insert the key into the ignition and turn it to the "ACC" position.

• 5

  Wait for the wrench symbol to illuminate, then release the button.

• 6

  Press the "MIN" button on the left side of the instrument panel.

• 7

  Wait 10 seconds, then remove the key from the ignition and exit

under the rear seat,

There's a plastic plug at the top of the transmission's bell housing. Open this up. This is where you will shine your timing light. At the base of the distributor, there is a 13MM bolt that you will need to loosen. Only loosen it up enough to turn the distributor and no more.

With the car running, shine your light into the bell housing hole. You should see a mark on the fly wheel. As you turn the distributor back and forth, you will see the mark move in the light of the strobe.

If you're trying to time a Rabbit that won't start, line the mark on the flywheel up with the hole by turning the crank manually with a break bar. On the cam wheel, you should see a small dot. If this dot is lined up with where the valve cover meets the top of the front of the head then the valve timing is at TDC. If it's not, loosen the timing belt and turn the cam until it is lined up. Take off the distributor cap. You should see a notch in the body of the distributor. The rotor should point to this notch at TDC. If it doesn't, loosen the distributor and turn it until the notch lines up. Once the mark on the flywheel, dot on the valve cover and notch on the distributor are all lined up, your car is at 0° TDC.

See Bulb Replacement under Service and Appearance Care in your "Owner's Manual"...

Yes. It's inside the alternator and is replaceable without alternator disassembly. Remove two screws and the voltage regulator will pull out.

I'm afraid won't be much. Check Kelly bluebook site & run the numbers. That will tell you & is what the dealers use as a guide.

In the back of the cam shaft there is a slot that must be "level" with the head. Slide a flat stock of steel in the slot. Both valves must be closed on #1 cylinder. This can be determined when both the cam lobes are pointing up.

Gas? Better to buy one that has been overhauled. Diesel. Buy one that is either new or has been overhauled or is at auto salvage and is the same as yours. Turbo FI pumps are different than regular pumps.

Right next to the water pump just about the oil pan. Follow the lower radiator hose and it goes right to an elbow held on by two bolts. Thermostat is behind that elbow.

Yes as the coil provides the spark or fire to ignite the fuel. Most definitely on a vehicle with one coil. On a vehicle with multiple coils, it may start but miss.

Remove the lower engine shroud(6 or so torx screws)...the oil filter is enclosed in a black plastic housing which has a small drain plug which can be used to empty the filter housing before loosening. The filters are dealer items only and come with a new rubber gasket for the housing. Be sure to remove the old one before installing the new. The filter is just a fiber cartrige that is inserted in the plastic housing. Find a good wrench and don't break anything!

I've found the filter cartridges at most auto parts stores. Autozone has a "B" style filter wrench that fits the housing perfectly. ($5.99)

1) Either your cable is frayed inside the cable sheath. (inexpensive, oil the new cable and sheath on replacement)

2)Or the clutch "push-rod" is wearing through the plate and in a short while will fail and need a new clutch. (expensive)

3)Or the little lever on the last housing has slipped on its splined shaft and you need a new one (inexpensive)

Careful not to break it like I did. Remove big clamp from air intake (about 4" diameter plastic hose) and the two torx screws that join the rectangular air intake to near the grill. Then it is just a matter of applying pressure, pulling up, one corner at a time. Like someone said, it's like pulling the cork out of a wine bottle.

Tools needed: Safety glasses; wheel chocks; safe jack and jackstands; MacPherson strut spring compressor; 17mm open end wrench; 17mm 1/2 drive socket; 1/2 drive ratchet; 13mm open end wrench; 6mm or 7mm or 8mm hex (Allen type) key; 22mm deep socket with a slot cut for hex key; 1" crescent wrench; large pliers; two 6X6 blocks of wood; optional: chisel, white-out, impact wrench. Chock rear wheels, set parking brake. Loosen, but don't remove, the front lug bolts. With car on the ground, loosen (but don't remove) the two small nuts on each strut tower in the engine bay. Use the 13mm end wrench for this. At the proper lifting point on the car, raise it and support it with jack stands. Finish removing wheel lug bolts and carefully remove the wheels. Place them out of the way, never underneath the car. With the chisel or white-out, mark the top eccentric bolt on each suspension strut housing. This bolt affects the camber, and to some extent, toe. If you don't mark this, you'll have an interesting time driving the car :) Remove the two bolts holding the strut to the wheel bearing housing (aka, hub). You really should support the control arm and the CV assembly, so jam a block of wood beneath each control arm. Finish removing the top small bolts on the strut towers. The strut assemblies are now relatively free. Depending on the amount of dirt and undercoating and grime on them, they'll need a bit of convincing to come off the wheel bearing housing. Place one of the spring compressors to grab 5 or 6 coils. Tighten it so it doesn't fall off, but don't compress the spring. Then, at 180 degrees opposite, attach the other spring compressor. Tighten each compressor EQUALLY! This is soooo important to doing this job safely. The spring will rattle freely within the strut assembly when it is loose enough to be SAFELY removed. Keep in mind there's plenty of potential energy stored in those compressed springs to maim you or kill you, or someone else. When, and only when, the spring is practically flopping around in the strut housing, do you remove the nut that holds the cap on. Use a piece of paper to draw how the components come out, or place the components on your bench so you know the proper arrangement. If the strut bearing is cracked, replace it. They're cheap. Get the little spacer/bushing at the same time. Chances are excellent you'll be working on a car that doesn't have the spacer/bushing installed. Put one back in it...the factory put 'em in for a reason. Once the strut assembly has been disassembled, you really should release the spring to it's normal height. I know a lot of people that skip this step, but it's totally okay to be safe. Using the large pliers, remove the collar screw that holds the strut cartridge within the strut housing. Don't discard, because it's entirely possibly your struts didn't come with the collar screw. If you bought German stuff, you'll get the new pieces :) DO NOT dump the mineral oil you find inside the housing onto the ground! That's a nasty thing to do. Make sure it gets into a container and is marked as waste! Reinstall the new cartridge into the strut housing, and re-affix the collar screw. If your collar screws don't fit, use the screws that came off when you pulled the old cartridges out. Some cheap inserts have tons of paint on them, which makes fitting a bit tough. Sand the inside of the collar screw and clean it before rechecking the fit. NEVER sand the paint off the strut insert! The rest of the procedure is the reverse of removal. Remember to be very careful with the spring compressor, letting each side out evenly. I highly recommend having your Bunny aligned at this point, even if you were super-careful in replacing the eccentric bolts. Enjoy your new ride! P.S: You'll need the spring compressor on the back shocks, too :)

under the hood, at the back of the headlight assembly, you'll see a round plastic dome. This is the seal to the headlight. Unscrew it (1/4 to 1/2 turn) look for and release the 'pin' that holds the halogen bulb in place and the bulb will easily slide out of its housing. Check your manual as well, it'll have full illustrations.

"A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 1)

symptoms
Hard starting, bad idle and possibly stalling issues

caused by
Incorrect camshaft timing
Wiring issues (harness/wiring) in intake timing control valve control solenoid system
Steady oil flow to VCT piston chamber
Faulty timing valve control solenoid (stuck open)

the fix
This code indicated a mechanical issue, electrical troubleshooting wont help so replacement of the VCT or one of it's related components is necessary.

If my engine is hot, I would not even notice that as it evaporates very quickly...in hot oil.

30mm for the front. I think the rear are 24mm, but I usually use an adjustable for those.

a couple of the screws ADJUST the direction of the light... see if your local library has a book to look at, and if your going to keep it, consider investing in a manual also the parts store people may walk you through it... d

The fuel filter is under the hood. It's clamed to the side of the air box cover, on the side closest to the fender. Unscrew the clamp and then loosen the two fuel fittings from either end using the correct size wrenches.