Mercury

I'm not familiar with your particular model, but most crankshafts (CS) don't have a visable timing mark on them. Today's cars use a sensor that runs by a point on the CS in order to achieve proper timing. If the timing chain gear is still on the CS then you can look here. On this gear you will notice a dot/notch on one of the teeth. When this dot/notch is at the 12:00 position, the #1 cylinder piston is at top dead center (tdc). I cannot say this applies to all engines. I always pull the sparkplug out of the #1 cylinder and double check to make sure everything agrees.

If you've got this problem that I've got this last December, make sure you don't call Ford's service center and ask them where the horn is located on your Mercury Mariner becasue they will give you the wrong answer.

If you're horn is not working and after you've made sure that it's not the fuse or the relay, first thing you do, you order the new horn (either from the dealer or form an after-market website if you wanna install a cooler horn). The 2006 Mercury Mariner has a single horn assembly that's used for both the alarm and the beeping claxon.

Once you got that, get prepared to take the front bumper off and for that to happen you need to take both of the front wheels off (one by one) in order to get the wheel protectors off and get to the hidden screws that hold the front bumper in its place. In total, you might need to unscrew 4-6 clips on each side for the bumper and about 8 extra screws in total to take the bumper off.

The horn will be located on the driver side (yeah, Ford service 'specialist', it's not in front of the radiator on the passenger's side!) in front of the headlamp.

Make sure you get voltage to your new horn and also, make sure you connect the new horn to ground as well (after figuring out which one is the ground connector on the new horn - it might be labeled or might be not). Once that's establish, it's really easy to get the new horn in place. Test it before you install the bumper back.

And make sure you've got no screws left as spares after this entire 'affair'... if you find any left... oh well :) good luck then!

The only things attached to the fuel rail are the fuel injectors and the fuel pressure regulator.

Disc brakes ( with small brake shoes in the back of the rotors for your

parking / emergency brake )

The 1997 Ford Expedition has either the 4.6 or the 5.4 liter V8 :

Both have the spark plug firing order ( 1 - 3 - 7 - 2 - 6 - 5 - 4 - 8 )

The 5.4 has the Coil On Plug ( C.O.P. ) ignition system with ( 8 ) individual coils

The 4.6 has the Electronic Distributorless Ignition System ( EDIS ) with ( 2 ) coil packs ( unfortunately I do not know the spark plug wire connection pattern on the coil packs )

On both engines the engine cylinder locations are numbered :

firewall

4 - 8

3 - 7

2 - 6

1 - 5

front of Ford Expedition V8

mass air flow sensors are generally located in the air passage between the air filter and the intake manifold.

Why abuse a nice old car? Parts will break and they are hard to find not to mention expensive.

first I would check fuel preasure,second I would make sure the exhaust isn't plugged causing back preasure. You didnt say if you have a check engine light, also check for vacume leaks or disconnected hoses.You should also check the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor to see if it is dirty or defective. If there is corrosion on the diodes this can usually be cleaned off using some electrical contact cleaner and a toothbrush. Becareful not to use too much force when cleaning or you will break the elements and will then need to replace the MAF sensor. I recently (May '07) replaced one w/ a unit from a local salvage yard and the price was $35. A new MAF sensor for this Make & Model will cost you around $100.The fuel filter is something else you can check if you have low fuel pressure. If you do have a check engine light coming on I would take the car to one of your local auto parts stores and have them check the code(s) for you. Most automotive parts stores will do this as a free service.

5300lbs.

the entry code is (5) numbers on a black box on the passenger side console under the dash. all you need is a good flashlight

If you had an Owner's manual you could just look there for an answer. You need an owner's maual. Dealer, salvage yard, ebay, and many online sites are a source. Get yourself an owner's manual.

With solid state ignition and fuel injection, this is what it cost a friend of mine. $7 for an air filter, $32 for eight spark plugs, and $4 for a PVC valve. $43 for parts and $100 for labor.

6 quarts will put it right on the mark.

Stuck thermostat, cooling fan not working properly, low of coolant, bad water pump, radiator clogged internally or externally, cracked head or blown head gasket.

First, how is the batt? New, old? Most charging/starting systems have a regulator for the alternator so it will not overcharge the batt or produce more power than the car needs. If this is working incorrectly it could keep damaging your alternator. There could also be a parasitic draw of power from your car causing the alternator to run continuously at a high rate. Do you have an aftermarket stereo hooked up in the car? Have your engine light scanned at a garage. The code stored in your car can help lead the mechanic to the source of your problem. I am an auto tech, but without actually seeing your car this is the best advice I can give.

How do you replace the timing chain on a 1994 mercury grand marquis

A single overhead camshaft V-8 has 2 camshafts, one on each head.

50:1 I believe

It's part of the range switch on the transmission.

The majority of recent Ford / Mercury radios share a common mounting design. Buy a pair of Ford radio removal tools for around $4 from the auto parts store.

Remove the radio -

* Insert the U-shaped 'handles' into the vertical pair of holes on each side of the front of the radio until you feel it hit an indent / click .

* With both tools inserted, push outward on the top of the tools while pulling the radio out & away from the dash.

* Disconnect the 2 wire harness connectors & the antenna. Reverse to install.

If replacing with an after-market radio, do yourself a huge favor and make sure to purchase the wire-harness converter - greatly simplifying getting your new radio wired directly into the car's current wiring - without cutting the factory wires!

Red band ended in 1968 and blue band ran from around 1970 serial numbers are a more accurate method of determining year

The screw into the exhaust pipes. One will be near the front under the front of the engine, one will be after the second converter roughly under the passenger seat.

Black smoke is caused by an over rich mixture and normally occurs whenever the engine is working hard. Like going up a steep grade, being loaded heavy or during heavy acceleration. More black smoke can be observed when the vehicle is operated at higher altitudes because the air is thinner. A dirty air filter is also another cause of excessive black smoke. If black smoke is noticed while the engine is idling at low altitude or under normal driving conditions this condition should be diagnosed a.s.a.p. to prevent engine damage. bad rings or busted pisten you need anew motor

The light colored plastic edging around the stereo unit pops off, (the one with the clock and the flashers on it). There will be several plugs to un-clip. They come off easily if you flick the little red tabs on the plug up. There are then 4 screws on the radio assembly, (2 on each side). You can identify them easily because they go through metal brackets and no plastic. After you remove these screes the assembly slides out. Not that it might get stuck, but the only thing holding it in besides those four screws are two wire plugs and a stereo plug. Personally I just worked one hand behind the assembly and gently worked it back and forth until it slid free, and then I un-cliped the plugs. That should get it out. My source for this information is that I just finished the process myself five minutes ago. This should get you going.