Alternators

have you checked the ignition, just had the same on our Renault van, after starting the vehicle the ignition still stays as if you are trying to crank instead of the key returning, automatically shutting off the need for the alternator resulting in the alternator staying on burning out and drainig battery

NOT always. Any new, replacement part, including batteries, can be defective from the start. Before making any decision to replace either a battery, or especially an alternator, have the electrical system checked by someone who knows what s/he is doing. Usually, most mainstream auto parts chain stores [like for example, Advance, Autozone, O'Rielly] have the equipment necessary to fully check out your vehicle's battery and charging system, and will check it out for FREE. So, before spending any money replacing something which may not be defective, get the entire electrical system checked.

This is hard due to limited space. Disconnect the neg. battery cable then the wiring and take the belt off and finally the mounting bolts.

You have to also remove the intake manifold to have room for removal.

To flush the system, first locate the power steering pump lines. Usually a high pressure line takes fluid from the pump and is attached to the fitting with a crimped on steel sleeve. You want to detach the low pressure return line, which is usually hose clamped to the return nipple. While adding steering fluid at the reservoir, have an assistant turn the steering wheel back and forth. Get the front wheels clear of the ground with jack stands for this. Continue to drain off the old fluid until clean oil begins to drip from the pump. Then reattach the return line and top off the fluid reservoir. A few turns of the steering wheel, left and right, should be enough to force out air bubbles.

check on the internet!

Now that was an incredibly brilliant answer. Check on the internet! How do you think we got here? But it did help because after reading that, I was just frustrated enough, I went to the local library and found a Haynes repair manual for the Aerostar. Problem solved! :)

Inside the alternator, some are easily replaced and some are soldered in place.

Remove the drivers side wheel. Remove the inner cover. Taking an Allen wrench and tighten the tension roller against the belt.

Remove the pos. on the battery. Have the tools on hand. The alt. is right on top. Use a ratchet to slack the belt. There is a square slot on the belt tensioner. Disconnect the wire harness. Un-bolt alt. that's it. Job takes about 15 minutes.

No, most alternators with charge in either direction,, external fan type alternators may not cool as well when run in reverse, but you can find a bi-rotational fan.

About 1 hour

diode

in a 4.6 n star 2000 deville the radiator and a/c condenser must be removed its bolted to lower engine on pass side lower hood latch and support also mustberemoved also 2000 was the only year they used a water cooled 145 amp alternator if your quick about 3hour job. novice give it 6 to 8 hrs

An hour or so at Shop rate.

I can't believe the people that don't state make, model, year and engine size before posting a question.

what about it? its under the car on the passanger behind the tire pretty much, you have to remover the ac compressor to replace the alternator, have fun with all that.

idle air controler

this is pretty straight forward. remove the black air tube ,2 bolts, then you have easy access to alternator.loosen the top long alternator bolt then the other one below the alternator,all you are wanting to do is loosen these bolts so you can take the tension off the alternator,pop off the old belt,and gently wind it over the fan and out it comes. reverse procedure to install new belt.When you put on new belt do not do it up so tight that it is like a guitar string,leave 1/4 inch flex in belt.

yes but the engine has to be running to spin the alternator to charge the battery

It spins a coil of wire past magnets (or vice versa) creating AC power. Its the same as wind generaters, hydro generators or even the breaking system on some of the hybrid cars.

That energy passes though a regulator unit that converts it into DC power and feeds it into the battery for storage. It also prevents the battery from being over charged.

An alternator is actually the twin (running in a different direction) from most electric motors. If you install an aftermarket electic cooling fan on your radiator and it doesn't have the proper electrical set up... the car will keep running after the key is turned off just from the power of the fan spinning like a generator (alternator) and keeps power going into the ignition system. The free spinning fan while you drive sill also create more power and can overload the regulator.

You can also use an alternator to make a windmill or a hydro generator if your mechanicaly inclined.

I won't go into detail about efficiency and power loss through resistance and converting energy...

= What is the different between permanent magnetic alternator and alternator? =

In order to remove the alternator you must first remove the belt. The alternator is held in place by two bolts and one will require a 13 mm socket to remove it and the other one requires a 13 mm wrench to remove the nuts while holding the long bolt with either another 13 mm wrench or socket. The alternator takes some force to remove it and pry bar might help. PRECAUTION: When using a pry bar do not use a pulley as a pivot for the pry bar, you will ruin that pulley!!!

Fully charge your battery then take off cables. If still charged after sitting unhooked overnight, then you have a short somewhere and need to take to an electrician. If the battery is dead after sitting unhooked, buy a new battery.

The alternator is located between the engine & the firewall on the passenger side. You must remove the front right tire, cv assembly, for extrication from below. Not a simple job.

The alternator can be removed from the bottom and accessed from the top of the engine compartment. I have done this twice and it is not in Amy manual I learned it from a mechanic. I am not mechanically enclined so please take this for what it is worth. But I have done this twice, several years ago. There are support bars that block the view of the alternator from the top of the engine compartment. These are loosened and can be allowed to swing free by removing the bolt on one side. If memory serves me, there are two of these supports. You must have the car up on ramps to get at the alternator. With access from the top and bottom, the wiring to the alternator can be disconnceted. Loosen the alternator from its bracket. There is a bolt that it swings on and this can be removed. The alternator will fall and can be wedged out from under the engine compartment. Tight, but can be done. New alternator can be dropped from the top and put back into place. I did this several years ago, but was successful on a 1991 Capri. A buddy is helpful, but not necessary. Alocate at least two to three hours to do this.

Check the battery cables or starter.

Remove the wiring harness from the back of your 2003 Mitsubishi Eclipse alternator. Loosen the alternator tensioner bolt. Remove the alternator belt. Remove the alternator retaining bolts. Reverse the process to install the new alternator.

I don't specifically know about the 2002 but i Just did it for a 2001

Remove that black rubber around the radiator by pulling it up that rubber piece comes in two different pieces after you take out the 4 bolts that's holding it together with the radiator. You might have to go under the truck and remove the mud guard to take one of the rubber piece that I was telling you about which is connected with the radiator once you take that piece out now you could pull that rubber piece up now. Don't forget to disconnect the battery before you proceed to the next step. You will need 14mm, 10mm, 12mm sockets etc...

The special bolt to release the tension or the tensioner is located directly on the bottom of one of those pulley loose it up to release the pressure on the belt, require a 14 mm socket , ratchet and an extension to make it easier. Putting it back require the same step but in reverse. Don't forget to draw the diagram of the belt.

if you can't take out that rubber piece take the top hose of the radiator and unscrew the radiator holder lift the radiator that is just another way to remove it . you need to remove the antifreeze from the radiator prior of removal. That's one of the reason I subject strongly by trying to find that little rubber piece to remove first it will make it much easier, faster and less messy.

To remove the antifreeze from the radiator unscrew that little white plastic thumb screw with your hand located on the bottom left side facing the truck or the passenger side.

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An alternative way is to jack up the passenger side and remove the front passenger wheel. Carefully unclip the mud flap from the inside of the wheel well and you'll see the alternator hanging right there. Look under/behind the alternator for the tensioner bolt and loosen it. Remove the belt from the alternator. Then disconnect both wires from the back of the alternator (careful not to break them). There are only two bolts holding the alternator. One is on the bottom and one is on the top. The top one is easier to reach from above and the bottom one is easier through the wheel well. It's helpful to have a helper as the alternator will just drop when you remove the mounting bolts. The alternator can be pulled out through the passenger wheel well and the new one can be put in in reverse of the above steps. It shouldn't take more than 1.5 hours if you don't know what you are doing. If you are somewhat capable then you can knock it out in an hour or less. The only belt you'll need to worry about tensioning is the alternator once you get the new one in place. Make sure you get it right. Too tight and you'll kill the bearings quickly, too loose and you'll burn up your belts, squeal, etc. You can get a little cheap belt tension gauge at NAPA that you just press onto the belt until is snaps. It will then tell you the tension within an acceptable margin of error. They sell for less than $20.00 or you can spring for the expensive one if you have loads of cash sitting around.

To me, draining the radiator and removing all the belts, etc. is a bit overkill for such a simple procedure.