Alternators

I don't specifically know about the 2002 but i Just did it for a 2001

Remove that black rubber around the radiator by pulling it up that rubber piece comes in two different pieces after you take out the 4 bolts that's holding it together with the radiator. You might have to go under the truck and remove the mud guard to take one of the rubber piece that I was telling you about which is connected with the radiator once you take that piece out now you could pull that rubber piece up now. Don't forget to disconnect the battery before you proceed to the next step. You will need 14mm, 10mm, 12mm sockets etc...

The special bolt to release the tension or the tensioner is located directly on the bottom of one of those pulley loose it up to release the pressure on the belt, require a 14 mm socket , ratchet and an extension to make it easier. Putting it back require the same step but in reverse. Don't forget to draw the diagram of the belt.

if you can't take out that rubber piece take the top hose of the radiator and unscrew the radiator holder lift the radiator that is just another way to remove it . you need to remove the antifreeze from the radiator prior of removal. That's one of the reason I subject strongly by trying to find that little rubber piece to remove first it will make it much easier, faster and less messy.

To remove the antifreeze from the radiator unscrew that little white plastic thumb screw with your hand located on the bottom left side facing the truck or the passenger side.

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An alternative way is to jack up the passenger side and remove the front passenger wheel. Carefully unclip the mud flap from the inside of the wheel well and you'll see the alternator hanging right there. Look under/behind the alternator for the tensioner bolt and loosen it. Remove the belt from the alternator. Then disconnect both wires from the back of the alternator (careful not to break them). There are only two bolts holding the alternator. One is on the bottom and one is on the top. The top one is easier to reach from above and the bottom one is easier through the wheel well. It's helpful to have a helper as the alternator will just drop when you remove the mounting bolts. The alternator can be pulled out through the passenger wheel well and the new one can be put in in reverse of the above steps. It shouldn't take more than 1.5 hours if you don't know what you are doing. If you are somewhat capable then you can knock it out in an hour or less. The only belt you'll need to worry about tensioning is the alternator once you get the new one in place. Make sure you get it right. Too tight and you'll kill the bearings quickly, too loose and you'll burn up your belts, squeal, etc. You can get a little cheap belt tension gauge at NAPA that you just press onto the belt until is snaps. It will then tell you the tension within an acceptable margin of error. They sell for less than $20.00 or you can spring for the expensive one if you have loads of cash sitting around.

To me, draining the radiator and removing all the belts, etc. is a bit overkill for such a simple procedure.

this alternator removal procedure is a pain in the ass i have only been able to remove the bolts that hold the alternator in and the one that is the true pain in the ass is the lower bolt u need elbow extension the similar type one that u would use if changing spark plugs in a car or motorcycle i havent been able to take it out yet gonna try to tackle it today when i know more i will post again

Its a pain! If you can afford to get it done at a garage, do that (obviously) but if not...

Jack up the left driver side wheel and put bricks under the chassis, it needs to be about 4 bricks high but depends how big your head is. Open the bonnet and disconnect the battery, drain the radiator fluid and disconnect the pipe that comes from the engine block (for radiator fluid). Disconnect the pipe that comes from the turbo that goes into the intercooler, plug the turbo exit with something clean (a rag) - that's the pipe all the way round from the turbo to the intercooler, you need to undo the 3 screws that hold the bumper on at the top to get your arm in.

All that is necessary to give you space to get the thing out. You also need to remove the bit of plastic in the front right of the engine bay that's forward from the arch, this is the only gap you can get it out from. Now to getting it out.

Assuming your doing the steering pump at the same time, remove the pipes connected to the back of the alternator (4 in total, one vacuum easy to get off and 3 other not so easy AND THEY CONTAIN OIL, you will lose some). Also remove the wire held in by some plastic bolt and the electrical connector. There is a bolt at the top that you can see and a long bolt at the bottom you can see one end of, take them out.

It should now slide out that gap at the bottom where the plastic you removed was, do this in reverse for fitting the new one!

Remember to re-fill the radiator and top-up oil.

If the car is running do an AC voltage drop test from the positive on the alternator to the positive battery terminal. there should be less than 0.1v ac. if there is greater than 0.1v that would indicate a failed diode. Another way is to remove the alternator from the vehicle and disassemble it, exposing the diode trio. Using a multimeter on the diode setting, test for continuity on each side of each diode. Continuity should be detected only one way on each diode. If this is not the case on any of the 3 diodes, then the diodes have failed and are in need of replacement.

just got a quote from a ford dealer ...$447 installed ...I said what!? I called Sunset ford in Phoenix AZ, and received a quote of $600 bucks to replace the alternator. I dont mind supporting dealers when labor rates are reasonable, but to pay 400 bucks over the cost of purchasing a new alternator from my local auto parts store is ridiculous. What a rip-off. The above comments were made by someone that is clueless about what is involved in replacing the alternator on a escape . before you condemn the person that gave you these prices, try installing it yourself. only then will you understand. good luck

I have actually done one and it is far more detailed than one would think for the escape the cv and driveaxle must be pulled to change alternator that is a very cheap price for the work required

3-500 dollars

Answer

Hey there friend To check if alternator is false or not there is a simple way of doing it without getting to tear entire car and cables apart. Before you do anything loosen the negative cable but so its still connected to batter.

Start the vehicle, if cant slave it off and start it, while vehicle is running disconnect the negative wire that you have loosened then if vehicle is running its good if it dies then your alternator went bad and needs replacement.

If you need to drive badly because cant get a ride to get to schucks or some auto parts store you can bang the heck out of the alternator with a hammer which will charge the coil inside and will loosen some of the dust that collected there. That should be enough for you to get to store and back.

Ansrwer #2

Removing a battery cable with the engine running is bad idea. It can cause a voltage spike that can damage the computers on the car.

The proper way to check the alternator output is to turn on all electrical loads (wipers, fans, rear window defroster etc.) and check the voltage with a voltmeter. It should be 13.5 to 14.5 volts.

in the ecu

Depends on the make, model, and year of the vehicle in question which you failed to list. Call your local auto parts store and they can tell you what the alternator will cost you. Then call a trusted mechanic and ask them how much to install it.

Alternator check - any vehicle. With engine running, check voltage across the battery terminals, if 13.8vdc or so (i.e. lots more than 12vdc ), your alternator is working. Now, if you rev the engine and the voltage stays the same (13.8 or so), then the internal regulator is working. Way back in the dinosaur age, regulators were a separate item, and got replaced independent of the alternator. Today they are internal and replaced as part of a remanufacture.

If you don't get the increased voltage (higher than battery voltage) or it's feeble, then replace the alternator. If its out of the vehicle, you need a device to spin he pulley, provide the input (excitation voltage) and measure the output. Easist to take it to a car parts store that offers the service, like Advance Autoparts or Autozone or AutoBarn or VIP etc. etc...

A warning light on the dash would illuminate.

Any part can be defective even a new part. They are made by man therefore mistakes can and are made in their construction. Just be thankful it failed while the car was under warranty.

Depends on how low the battery is but give it 10-15 minutes and it will be fully charged, assuming the alternator is working properly.

bad pcm regulator

It is likely that you have lost a master fuse or fusible link. The headlights are nearly always powered directly from the battery through a fusible link or large, under hood fuse.

I have the exact same pproblem with a 1988 tempo, replaced the alternator and battery, still the alternator only reads 5 volts when running. Can't figure it out, do you know of any websites that would have a diagram of the alternator for a tempo?

The first thing to do is disconnect the battery from the truck. Then you will need to lossen the belt off the enginge. In order to go that their should be a tension puller on the front that a simple rachet and socket will do. you turn that till it lossens the belt and slide it off the alternator. If it doesn't have tension pulley then the alternator has a bolt that you lossen it to get the belt off. After you get the belt off you need to dissconect the wires on the back of the alternator then you can take the two bolts out of the alternator and simple pull it off.

The running lights will turn off when the emergency brake is on by tripping a switch connected to the emergency brake. Pushing in the emergency brake slightly will do the trick, but make sure you don't push in too far or you will be driving with the emergency brake on!

If the voltage metere is moving up and down there a good chance that its the alt. You can also place a volt meter on the battery while the motor is running (with every thing off), look and the voltage, then turn your A/C on high, turn your lights, wipers, radio ON, if the voltage goes below 12.5, there a good chance that it is bad.

the watterpump belt is actually the timing belt on that car and if you didnt know that you probably should take it to a shop to get done due to the possibility of engine dammage if done incorectly.

Disconnect the battery. Take the drive belt off of the alternator. Disconnect the wires from the alternators rear. Unbolt the alternator, remove, and install the new one. Reconnect the wires, belt, and battery to finish the installation.

EASILY. jUST THREAD THE WIRE THROUGH THE HOLES AS SHOWN IN THE INSTRUCTIONS THAT YOU CAN GET POSTED TO YOUR POSTAL ADRESS.

Unlike a dynamo, which is self-energising, an alternator requires some current from a battery to energise its coils. If the battery is good, the starter motor will work, and there will be power to generate ignition sparks; but if the alternator is faulty, it may not be able to recharge the battery sufficiently, and the car would eventually stop.

If you know this situation applies, try to bump-start the car (say, by rolling downhill), as the starter motor makes a huge draw from the battery. That way, the battery will stay fresh and will be able to provide sparks for longer.

it is internal. you can replace it if you know what you are doing, but it is easier to buy a whole new alternator

Answer: BS. it is not easier to buy a new alternator. it's like 5 screws and a few nuts to take out a voltage regulator, and they cost 10 bucks. an alternator costs a lot more than that.

First, you disconnect the battery negative.

Put a socket and ratchet or breaker bar to the belt tensioner, twist counterclockwise to loosen the slack on the serpentine belt. While you have slack on the belt, pull it off the alternator pulley. There'll be a quick connect with some electrical lines going to the alternator. Disconnect that. On the back side of the alternator, there'll be a stud with a nut on it, and connected to that stud will be a wire with a ring terminal (this wire will run from the alternator to the battery positive). Disconnect that wire. Not being familiar with this specific model, I don't know exactly where the bolts are or how many there are, but you'll see them if you look around the alternator.. should be two or three bolts. Remove those, and the alternator should come out.