Alternators

Loose or corroded battery cables? Seized engine? Bad starter solenoid? Bad starter? Bad neutral or clutch safety switch?

yes, it's the alternator. I have a 87 Lincoln town car as well and when the alternator is bad it will not hold a charge. In your message system it should be saying charge system, that what's it's telling you. Hope this helps

1. Remove the passenger side front wheel.

2. Remove the plastic splash shield for access to the alternator

3. Remove the top engine plastic cover

4. Disconnect the battery

5. Loosen the water pump pulley bolts (4X10mm)

6. Remove the belt

7. Remove the alternator (2 bolts and 2 electrical connections)

8. Remove the water pump pulley for access to loosen the fastening bolt of the bracket of the alternator.

9. Loosen the second inner bolt of the bracket, but do not remove it.

10. Remove the two bolts that holds the plastic piece that is on top of the engine which is in parallel to the line of the sparks plugs and remove the plastic piece just enough to get space to take out the alternator.

11. Move the alternator bracket downward for enough space to take out the alternator.

12. Loosen the bolts that hold the electrical junctions to the body for enough space to take out the alternator.

13. Take out the alternator from the top.

The alternator on your 1999 Nissan Maxima can be found on the front of the engine. The alternator will be on the right hand side of the engine.

Well, if the alternator is on any type of vehicle that has been made within the last 100 years, it will be the 100 amp alternator. There is no such thing as a 1900 amp alternator for a car. The highest I have seen is about 150 amps, and that is a heavy-duty truck alternator.

4cyl sets you back about 175 including deposit return from the old one. This is part only, and the alternator is kind of a pain to get to because you have to remove one of the motor mounts to get to it. If you take it to a garage expect to pay at least 3 hours of their labor cost in addition to the cost of the part.

first disconnect the battery. you will have to remove the fuse box on top of the window washing reservoir, one bolt, unsnap the wire holding clamps then set it to your right to get access for everything else.Then remove the wiper arms .then lift the snap clips and lift the plastic cover to get to the two bolts that are for the wipers then drop and move forward,you have to do that to get the bottle out. to remove the window cleaning bottle,then the alternator can be removed from the side of the engine the window cleaner reservoir has to be taken out to make room for the alternator. Size of bolts are 15mm for the alternator two in back of the alternator very close to firewall, So you can't use a socket..10mm and 15mm for the crossbar above battery. That has to be removed to remove battery. 10mm for the one bolt for the fuse\relay box on sidewall.10mm for window cleaner bottle 3 of them. remove the fluid hose and electrical plugs off the bottle and remove the window cleaning bottle.the belt tensioner is a 3\8 drive not 1\2 inch I used a ratchet. put on a new belt before you put back together. Cause you don't want to do this again. first time took me a few hours, But now I know probably take about forty minutes now.

It could be that it's charging OK and you've got some kind of electrical load drawing the battery down when the key is off. If a charging system analysis confirms that it is not charging, then you've got to go back to the alternator and start there. Use your multimeter to BE ABSOLUTELY SURE it is putting out 13.8 volts. I seen them put out 12 volts, which will keep the charging light out but not replenish the battery. If that's ok, go over all the wiring with a fire tooth comb. Any corrosion? Any partially broken wires? Is the voltage regulator contained in the battery or is on the fender wall? Does your charging indicator come on when you turn the key to RUN without starting the engine?

There's caps on the left and right side of the terminal, pop them off with a screw driver, and remove them one is 8mm the other is 10mm.

No - See Link

The availability of diagrams will depend on a few variables including the year of your vehicle and how much of the vehicle is factory original. For original equipment diagrams, check your local auto parts stores for repair books for your specific vehicle published by companies such as Chilton's or Haynes. You may also order or download many repair manuals and individual diagrams online.

MAKE SURE THE FAN BELT IS NOT LOOSE Rocky_B - See my entry here for more things you might want to check: http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_could_be_wrong_if_the_battery_light_stays_on_and_the_battery_still_runs_down_on_a_1996_windstar_after_installing_a_new_battery_and_alternator

You cannot. It is automatically tensioned by the part that you describe. If it is out of adjustment, a new belt and tensioner is required.

There is a tensioner bolt that you need to geta wrench onto to loosen the tension on the belt. After that you get underneaththe vehicle and remove the retaining bolts and drop the alternator a little to disconnect the plug on the back. Install is reverse...

Check with a voltmeter A fully charged battery should read approx. 12.8 volts without engine running Should read approx. 13.8-142. volts with engine running if higher than this probably a bad voltage regulator

Battery fails to charge, alt light comes on, sometimes only at low revs. Check with meter shows low or no charging voltage (close to or less than battery voltage) voltage does not increase to charging volts with engine revs increase

Hello, Jamison here, That is determined by the car, You need to specify the YEAR MAKE AND MODEL, If you go to an ASE sertified shop you can expect to pay, $45.00 and up for the laber, I would say as high as $500.00 for labor. MOST cars will be more like, $70.00 to $125.00 PLUS the alternator, Good luck, Jamison.

sounds like the fuel sensor is the problem

Depending on your engine size they are running around $200 a link I got these prices from is below labeld "altenator" for you. Hope this helps

When the alternator is no longer generating power, your vehicle will slowly run down the battery until there is not enough power to fire the spark plugs, at which time your engine dies. You can recharge your battery, but you'll be lucky to get more than a few minutes out of the battery without the alternator applying a steady charge to it.

When the battery loses charge, along with no voltage being produced by the the alternator - the combustion of the engine is compromised. This can result in misfire, inefficient fuel consumption and the possibility of the exhaust baffler exploding! this is because the unburnt fuel gets pushed into the exhaust, where it then ignites.

This happened to me after jump starting my car for 3months, when the alternator gave up.

the voltage regulator can be found on the back of alternator,probably the brushes worn if giving you troble

But hopefully you wont have to change it, because it involves removing an axle, jacking up the engine after disconnecting a motor mount, a real difficult knuckle-buster job

Bad ECU, replace.

How long until you're going to want to have to replace the battery too?

A bad alternator is death to the battery - don't wait - do the repair now.

Yes it can cause bulbs to blow.

Sounds like bad wire connections, bad ground or a slipping belt.