Alternators

I have nearly the same problem on a powerstroke 7.3 1997. the red dash light comes on during glowplug use, the voltage is 10.9 to 11 volts, It also comes on when running at higher engine revs, 1700 or thereabouts in the lower gears while the truck is run around the town (60 Klicks) the voltage is then reading about 14.4.i a ground has been added by a previous owner from the alternator to the body. I am going toadd a braided copper ground strap body to the frame and see if that will do anything

you may want to check the voltage regulator I do not know if the are still seprate from the alternators or not but it is worth a shot. The last ford I had it was seprate.

I have not looked on my newer one yet.

yes. Mitsubishi & Nissan alternators will do the work! I suggest, get a 110 Amps from a Cefiro to replace the 70Amp stock alternator. Since, the 110 AMp alternator is bigger than its predecessor, there will be some grinding that you will need to do (grinding of the alternator brackets).

what's good with a 110Amp are as follows:

1. No more current (electric) shortages while aircon is on, headlights (at high) / including fog lamps / radio-stereo / etc.

2. Alternator won't be too over-worked while running the engine, charging the bats.

3. Better batery charging

4. additional hp.

Start the car and while it is running, disconnect the positive cable from the battery. If the car stalls, the alternator is bad.

what car makes are interchangeable with the hyundai accent year 2000 for altanotor

Most alternator brackets will have moveable bushings (short sections of pipe usually with a slot in them, in one of the engines brackets) that pinch onto the alternators mounting lugs tightly even after the bolts are removed, you should be able to pry the alternator free, tapping on the engines brackets (next to bushing not the bushing its self) may aid removal, be carefull some are cast aluminum and are breakable.

there are two bolts on the bottom af the alternator you have to loosen and one on top in an arch with a slot for adjustment loosen all three and pull the alt towards the front of the car to remove the belt. install the new one then snug the bolts and adjust the tension then tighten all bolts. even high quality belts will need tightened after they stretch,i usually have to re tighten twice then they are fine,dont overtighten belt tension or you may damage alt or water pump bearings

In most cases if it is an alternator then it has an internal regulator

On a Delco, an external regulated alternator has a square plug, while the internal has a rectanguler plug.

YES,IF YOU DO IT RIGHT

You have to remove cover off instrument panel where there is a screw and 2 holes, you have to take the screw out of the hole it is in and put it in the other and light will will not come back on for 60000 mile

It is quite easy to find. Stand up in front of the car. Either Soch or Doch engine, 3.0 L, it is located in the right-end, almost-top of front engine, nearest to radiator.

If the battery continues to go down even though the system is charging it normally indicates there is an amperage draw. to test it without any meters; disconnect the negative battery cable and observe when you touch the connector to the battery. If there is even the slightest spark, you have an amperage draw and that will run your battery down.

follow the belt, it's always on the belt, as is the water pump, air compressor, power steering.

Make the sure belt has tension in it and it's turning the alternator pulley. When the car is started, remove one of the positive battery terminals (carefully of course and don't let it touch any other metal, wrap it in a rag). If the car continues to run, then the alternator and volt regulator are doing their job. The alternator's primary function is to recharge the battery after starting the car, then to run the vehicle's entire electrical system, which includes the ignition system. If the car dies after you remove the battery cable, then most likely the alternator is working. Go to Auto Zone, they'll check the entire system for you for nothing, otherwise give this a try.

The car may not remain running when a battery terminal is removed. An alternator uses coils instead of permanent magnets for their stator. In order for their to be a magnetic field in the stator, it requires some current to be passed through the coils (A generator uses permanent magnets, so it already has a magnetic field in it without needing any external current). This current comes from the battery and if the battery is removed, the alternator will not put out any current, ultimately causing the car to stall out. However, if the engine uses a generator, it would remain running. Consequently, an alternator will not charge a completely dead battery.

1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Remove the serpentine belt.
3. Take off the wires on the back of the alternator.
4. Unbolt the alternator from the engine bracket.

The alternator on a Chrysler 300m can be replaced by disconnecting the battery, removing the wiring harness from the alternator, and then unbolting it from the mounts. The drive belt can then be slipped off and a new alternator put into place.

Wow, how old a vehicle is this? The generators have been gone from most GM products since the early 1960s. I converted my 1961 Chevrolet from the old generator to an alternator, but this was in the days before the regualtors were built-in. The biggest three problems for me then were: Getting a top bracket for the alternator, since the alternator was different from the generator it replaced Making sure the external regulator was integrated into the ignition system for the initial voltage to operate properly (and making sure the dash ligh worked) and

one minor operational problem, the alternator would not charge properly at first crankup each start. I had to get the engine RPM up above an idle to get the regulator to start working, and getting the alternator on line to charge. Quite simple, now, actually, since the newer alternators have internal voltage regulators. The mechanical part of mounting the new alternator might be a bit of a problem, but I'd submit a friendly GMC parts guy might be able to look at some old parts catalogs and determine the different mounts GMC used in the first few years of alternators in that engine series.

Inside the alternator

Check the fuel pump! We have a '96 Ford Explorer and it would crank, but wouldn't stay cranked...it was the fuel pump and fuel sensor.

Same principle for all models.. top rear of engine on left hand side 1. Disconnect neg terminal on the battery 2. undo wires to back of alternator. 3. Undo pivot bolts and adjuster, loosen and slip off drive belt and remove. Remember to take old unit when you go to get new alternator. Total time.. 20 mins

Remove the belt from your 1998 Chrysler Town and Country alternator. Disconnect the wiring from the alternator. Loosen and remove the alternator retaining bolts. Reverse the process to put the new alternator on.

what year? And what power of alternator is it? Adamski (adam.francis@snowsgroup.co.uk)

You have to do it from under the car. It's a royal pain in the butt. Plan on spending several hours on this one. Space is very limited. Make sure you disconnect the battery before starting this job too.

its easy at the same time its a pain in the ass, you have to remove the drive belt and jack the car put it on a jack stand and remove the ac compresor and lose the altenater bolt out from there you just pull that bad boy out. Simple if you know what you doing.