Alternators

i had smilar issue with my 99 mitsu mirage, changed alt, and battery, and still had problems, turned out to be the voltage regulator. To test use a voltmeter and if the reading is below 13 on a new battery and is fluctuating then it should be the volatge regulator Try changing the belt i just had the same thing happen to my 03 rs i change both belts and then everything turned out fine after that

I have taken the alternator out of a 96 montecarlo with the 3.4 motor successfuly without dropping the engine cradle,disconnecting the steering gear or moving the exhaust like described by many. undo the baterry. unbolt the lug nuts and the axle nut with a 36mm axle socket and breaker bar.remove the splash guard and plastic inner fenderwell.remove the brake caliper and mounting bracket.hang caliper out of the way without stressing the rubber brake line.most likely need to torch out the bolts with a breaker bar for the caliper mounting braket.torch the metal around the bolt as the heat will make the metal expand helping to loosten the bolts.remove the brake rotor. unbolt the four mounting bolts for the wheel/hub assembly from the rear pocket of the steering knuckle. make sure your ratchet does not sit at an angle when removing the bottom two bolts as this will snap the heads off.disconnect the two plugs from the wheel speed sensor. the sensor is pinned in to the back of the steering knuckle and wheel hub assembly, pinning the knuckle in between the sensor and the wheel hub.once the wheel hub bolts have been removed pry the assembly loose from the knuckle working carefully to pry the hub from the sensor pins.unbolt the sway bar end fom the control arm. loosten the control arm bolts. remove the cotter pins and castle nuts off the ball joints and tie rod ends. place a ball joint/tie rod remover(pickle fork)in between the tie rod/balljoint and the control arm.hammer the fork until they break free and the control arm drops. use a two or three jaw puller to separate the wheel hub assembly from the axle halfshaft. the steering knuckle and shock tower are one unit and can be removed by posistioning a jack or support under it to support the unit as it will drop out after unbolting the assembly from the three bolts located under the hood take note of posistion of the strut tower and cover. drop the tower assembly down from the car and remove the shield from the trans that sits above the axle. use a slide hammer and adapter to remove the axle from the trans by fist putting the adapter behind the axle in between the trans and then screwing in the hammer and hamerin out the axle. release the tension on the belt using a serpentine belt tool and remove the belt. undo the top mounting bolt for the alternator using the serpentine tool to break the top bolt loose continue removing from the underside.undo the bottom pivot bolt,pull bolt out to fender and slide the alternator to the left as there is a slot cut in the mounting braket to allow the bolt to be removed. be carefull not to loose the spacer and take note of its location prior to removal.lower the alternator carefully supporting it as you unplug and unbolt the connections.maneuver alternator out as well as the cooling duct attached to it. if there is no cooling duct this could be the problem because of the location of the alternator its is imparitive that it is cooled down and not overheated by the trans or engine

you'll probably have to drop the right rear tie rod

It is probably a bad voltage regulator. Sometimes they are located in the alternator and can go bad in a new one. On Ford vehicle the voltage regulator is separate from the alternator.

Depends on whats wrong, first Bench test it and see how it behaves to help you get an idea of what its not doing, no output/over charging/poor output/ bad bearings etc. then Dissasemble and test each part to locate the trouble, install new parts, bench test to be sure it works then reinstall on vehical AFTER charging and testing the battery

Remove the alternator belt on your 2000 Oldsmobile. Disconnect the wiring harness from the back of the alternator. Remove the alternator retaining bolts. Put the new alternator on and reverse the process.

* Disconnect the negative battery cable.If the vehicle is equipped with a delco loc 2 or theftlock audio system make sure to have the activation code before disconnecting the battery. * Remove the drivebelt * Label and detach the wires from the backside of the alternator * Remove the mounting bolts and separate the alternator from the engine

i don't have a 2000 but it should be the same as any vehicle: disconnect your battery. disconnect the serpentine belt. you need to put a socket wrench on the front of the tensioner in order to slacken the belt. disconnect the wire connectors on the alternator. unbolt the alternator. install is reverse of removal. you may or may not have to transfer the pulley from the old one onto the new one.

Do yourself a favor have them check your new alternator before taking it home? I had a bad incident that I ended up with, 3 bad alternators in one day, 3 different stores. Last store check it before I took it home and everything was good. I ended up changing it 3 times. Make sure they also change the pulley. Alternator Removal & Installation 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Rotate the drive belt tensioner away from the drive belt and remove the drive belt from the alternator pulley. 3. Detach the electrical harness connectors at the alternator assembly. 4. Disconnect the positive battery cable and remove the nut and washer. 5. Remove 2 front alternator bolts. 6. Remove the rear alternator support bracket retaining bolts and the support bracket. 7. Remove the alternator from the vehicle. To install: 8. Place the alternator in position and loosely install 2 front alternator retaining bolts. 9. Install the alternator bracket and 3 alternator bracket bolts. Tighten to 84 inch lbs. (10 Nm) 10. Tighten 2 front alternator retaining bolts to 19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm). 11. Connect 2 electrical hardness connectors to the alternator assembly. 12. Connect the positive battery cable and install the nut and washer. Tighten the nut to 72 inch lbs. (8 Nm). 13. Rotate the drive belt tensioner away from the drive belt and install the drive belt on the alternator pulley. 14. Connect the negative battery cable. 15. Start the engine and check for proper charging system operation.

http://autorepair.about.com/library/faqs/bl796e.htm

It's probably similar to the Trooper since they share a motor (3.2L).

On mine, you can see/reach it better from underneath. Loosen the locknut first, then adjust, then tighten the locknut back up.

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Actually, on this truck, the alternator is the tensioner!! Loosen both alfernator bolts 'a little'. If your belt is too loose (for than .5 ines of play) use a 10 wrench and 10 socket (from under the car) to tighten the bolt, which will move the alternator away from the block. Keep checking tension on the belt until it's less a little less than .5 inces. Then tighten the lock nut with the 10 wrench and tighten both alternator bolts and you're all set.

The way you'll always know that this belt is too loose is that your Isuzu will make a terrible screeching noise when you start it. It usually does away when it warms up, but this is the cause. It can also come back if the motor gets wet.

Hope this helps. :)

plug 1 end of the usb in the mp3 and 1 end in the computer

Depending on the engine it shouldn't take a mechanic more the and 1hr-2hr, its likely a new AD series alternator around $200-250 aprox

the alternator is on the bottom right side of the motor and it is hard to get to without removing the engine but it can be done without removing the whole motor you take the belt off and detach the cables then there are 2 bolts that you take out then you pry it out and replace,

The belt is accessible thru driver side tire wheel shroud. 1. Park on a level road and put stoppers at the rear tires. Apply e-brake and jack the passenger side. 2. Remove the screws and remove the shroud cover. 3. Loosen the belt tensioner screws and take out the loosen belt. 4. replace the belt and tighten appropriately.

I HAVE NOT DONE THIS EXACT CAR, BUT THIS IS THE NISSAN BELT TENSIONER DESIGN, You will likely need A 12MM socket ratchet and about 6 to 12 inches of extension, and A 14MM wrench, There should be A IDLER PULLEY, It will have 1 bolt through it, and It should be mounted on A slotted bracket, The bolt holding it is A retainer, You will losen it about 1 to 2 turns,This is where you use the 14wrench, then there will be A LONG bolt(about 5 or 6 inches) exactly opposite from the direction the belt is comming and going, most of the time you will access this from the ground side,This is where you use the 12socket, Start backing the long bolt out, it should take about 5 to 10 turns to get the old belt off, When you put on the NEW belt it is very tempting to really tighten the belt because it is so easy, DO NOT DO THAT, It will cost you money in the long run if you do. GOOD LUCK, Jamison

i also own a 96 passat GLX VR6 and it is alot of work to change the alternator in a vr6 you pretty much have to take the front of the car off you need to remove the headlights to get to the raidator then you have to remove the radator to get to the alternator from there its a pretty simple process you need to remove the belt from the alternator then remove the bolts that hold it on and put the new one on and use a screwdriver to replace the belt onto your new alternator then you have to put the whole front of the car back on hope that helps

OK this is the most complicated thing i have ever seen so ya might wanna take it to a shop this is in my rendezvous repair book good luck

Generator Replacement

Removal Procedure:

-Remove the battery ground (negative) cable from the battery. -Rotate and secure the engine forward to access rear generator bolts. -Remove the generator B+ terminal nut. -Remove the generator B+ lead. -Remove the generator electrical connector. -Remove the drive belt from the generator. -Remove the generator front bolt. -Remove the generator rear bolts. -Remove the generator from the generator bracket and position the generator above the drive axle. -Remove the drive belt tensioner. -Remove the generator bracket. -Remove the power steering pipes from the power steering pipe retainer. -Remove the fuel pressure test port (schrader valve) cap from the fuel injector rail. "Important" Do not disconnect the power steering pipes from the power steering pump. -Remove the power steering pump and reposition the power steering pump in front of the timing chain cover in order to provide access for the generator. -Remove electrical harness from retainer on right fender well and position aside. -Remove the generator from the vehicle.

Installation Procedure

-Install the generator to the vehicle and position the generator above the drive axle. -Install electrical harness to retainer on right fender well. -Install the power steering pump to the engine. -Install the fuel pressure test port (schrader valve) cap to the fuel injector rail. -Install the power steering pipes from the power steering pipe retainer. -Install the generator bracket. Refer to Generator Bracket Replacement . -Install the drive belt tensioner.. -Install the generator to the generator bracket and position the generator above the drive axle. -Install the drive belt tensioner. -Install the generator to the generator bracket. -Install the generator front bolt. *Notice* Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems. -Install the generator rear bolts. Tighten Tighten the generator bolts to 50 N�m (37 lb ft). -Install the drive belt. -Install the generator electrical connector. -Install the generator B+ lead. -Install the generator B+ terminal nut. Tighten -Tighten the generator B+ terminal nut to 13 N�m (115 lb in). -Rotate the engine rearward and install the engine mount strut bracket bolts -Install the battery ground (negative) cable to the battery.

BBAASPENCER here in TN. This is how to roll it forward for access.Roll the engine forward is to take off the engine dog bones, put gear in neutral, attach a pulling strap to the engine and hoist and roll it until you gain access.

Alternator replacement needs to be done from under the car. Disconnet the neg. battery cable. Raise the car, use jack stands. Remove the under car cover, alternator will be exposed. You will need to remove the drive belts. Disconnect the three wires on the back of the alt, then remove the three bolts holding it in place (front top/rear top/front bottom). The alt should now fall free (you may have to nudge it free). You will have to loosen the bottom alt bracket to ge the alt out. Installation is reverse of removal.

Nomally I would say no, the only thing that happens is the brushes or bearings contract and may spin a little harder but unless they are bad, an alternator actuallys runs hot. That is why there is like a fan blade on the front to keep the internals cool.

on the front of the motor, it will have the sepentine belt around it

I am working on my wifes' 1996 mercury mystique and the alternator is located behind the timing belt. If you are standing directly in front of your vehicle the timing belt is located to the left side of the motor and the alternator is located directly behind the timing belt.

i just replaced the alternator for a 93 Honda Accord. You have to take off the power steering fluid hose which could have lowered the powersteering fluid. Also since this was my first time, after I put it back in, i forget their were two belt tighteners one set for the alternator and one set of two bolts for the power steering. Once I started the car i notice the power steering belt was loose. because I forgot i had loosened these bolts taking it out. at first I thought these bolts were loosening the alternator belt. but they were for the power steering. I also spilled some power steering fuid into the new alternator from the disconnected power steering line. I did not have problems however. I was difficult to pull the alternator out. Take it out to the left, but you still need to remove the venting mechanism and to get at things. How to adjust the P/S Pump Belt on a 1991 Honda Accord: You should check the deflection on the belt. The appropriate deflection should be between 12.5 to 16 mm for a belt that has been on the car for a while. A new belt should deflect ONLY between 9.5 - 11.5 mm the first time it is measured. (Note: You measure the belt in the middle, between the cranskshaft pulley and the power steering pulley.) You should attatch a tension gauge to the belt (07jgg-0010100) and measure it, the tension should be set around 35 - 50 kg. A brand new belt should be tested at 70 - 90 kg. Checxk where your oil dipstick is, to the right of it there is a "special bolt", it is located beside or underneath a hose that has nothing to do with this, but is connected to the power steering pulley. (If this is confusing, look at your power steering pulley, check how it is mounted. There should be a bolt to the right of your dipstick that is used to mount it. This is the "special bolt".) Now, on your power steering pump, there is an adjusting bolt to the left of the pulley on the side of the pump, facing you. Also needed to do this, is a nut on the pulley itself. You should loosen the nut on the pulley and the "special bolt", then adjust the tension with the adjusting bolt, until it is correct. After this is done, start the engine and turn the steering wheel from lock to lock several times, turn off the motor and check the tension again with a belt tension gauge. If the tension is off, loosen the nut and "special bolt" again, then use the adjusting bolt to tighen or loosen the belt. Keep doing this until the belt stays at the appropriate tension. It is not very hard at all, and should not be something you take your car to a shop for....

I just looked at www.oreillyauto.com and found that for the 4 cylinder engine the alternator is $139.99 and for the V6 it is $169.99.

it is not a good idea. the alternator is selected to meet the needs of the electrical system. Check to see what the maxium amp load is. It may cause a fault light to show up. the computers are set up for specific amps. Check to see if similar Volvo models of the year use a 70 amp alternator. hope it helps. duboff

Rolfo says: I have done this with acceptable results, although I will agree that it is not recommended. If you must use a different amperage go for more amps, not less.

It's right there. you can't miss it, on the top right hand side of the engine block. did you look?