Alternators

need diagram for 1986 Nissan truck alternator

Inside the alternator

Well, if your lights on your dash dont light up, if you turn your key into the on postion. I would try to jump start the car. Then drive it to a local part store ( ex. Adance Auto) to have them check if its the alternator. They will do it for free. Now if your car will not turn over on the jusmp start it's the battery.

Usually you can loosen the tension on the belt by moving the alternator. To do this, you need to loosen the bolts securing the alternator. It usually only has two, a pivot bolt and another bolt that slides along a track. You don't need to completely remove either bolt. Simply loosen the both of them, and the alternator will pivot towards the inside of the belt, allowing you to take it off. Put the new belt on pull the alternator towards the outside of the belt until it is tight, tighten the slider bolt, and then tighten the pivot bolt, and you're all set!

If the vehicle has one belt for everything (serpentine belt). This vehicle more than likely has a center tension pulley with a bolt or nut on the front. Place a boxed wrench on this and try tightening it. It will more than likely move releasing the tension on the belt where it can be entirely removed. It will be spring loaded so you will have to hold with one hand and remove with the other. Most vehicles also usually have a belt route sticker which will help if you forget just how it was routed.

I just changed mine yesterday. Most publications will tell you to remove the driveshaft on the passenger side. If you are like me, and don't think you are up to (or just don't want to )do it that way, this is how I did it: 1. Remove the charcoal cannister. It is the cylinder shaped black object on the left side corner. 2. There are 4 vaccum hoses connecting to the cannister. If the color coding on the hose and/or the cannister is missing, ensure you mark them yourself so you hook them back up in the correct location. 3. Once the hoses for the canister are removed, slide the cansister off of it's bracket. After you slide the canister up and out of the way, remove the two bolts holding the bracket on. 4. To the right of where the canister was, is a cable harness which is clamped to the front. Remove that clamp, and move that harness as much out of the way as possible. 5. Once these are out of the way, you can pull the alternator out. It will appear as if there still isn't enough room, but if you fiddle with it enough, moving it to different angles, it WILL come out. I think that was much easier, than the alternative method of removing the drive shaft on the passenger side!

It will seem like it is your battery. It may start at first but eventually will die and you will attempt to use jumper cables to restart it but as soon as you disconnect the cables it will die again. The only fix is to replace the alternator , when i replaced the one in my truck i did it myself for about 140.00

If this helped please recommend :>)

Richard Gora is also using the older Geo alternator from the 3 cylinder models. This alternator has 3 wires. One is drirectly from the battery and 2 others are (or more correctly were) in a green plug. These are the power from the key and the lead to the "no charge" light. My problem is that I do not have the plug and need to determine which of the two wires goes where. Any help ? Thanks !!! Doc PS I have an ohmeter etc etc fcorp1@tampabay.rr.com

It's on the passenger side of the vehicle. When you look at the crankshaft pulley, the Alternator belt is the innermost (closest to the engine) belt.

First remove battery cable. Remove drive belt with (13mm) or (15mm) I cant remember which wrench on belt tentioner,pulling towards front of car. Then 15mm bolt on the bottom of altenator. Then 15mm long bolt between chain housing and plastic intake. Then a few inches to the right just loosen the 3rd bolt. Its a tight squeeze, but work it out so you can unplug it and remove the 13mm nut on the back.(that wire goes to the battery)

First thing to do is remove the negative battery connector so you won't be able to short anything out by accident. Then remove the nut under the rubber boot at the upper back top of alternator (it is battery voltage wire and goes over to solenoid on starter motor). Then unplug the connector that is plugged into the top of the alternator. The alternator is usually the most upper mounted accessory that is bolted to a large aluminum accessory cradle attached to the engine block. Since you must access the serpentine belt tensioner, I would suggest removing the upper plastic pad that covers over the upper radiator support and fan shroud. First, remove the air inlet duct from the intake manifold and air snorkel tube. The trim pad over the radiator is held on merely with "push-pin" plastic trim plugs or fasteners to be technical. There is a plastic fastener or two you must remove to unfasten upper radiator hose. Next, you will or may want to remove the upper fan shroud. It is held in by two bolts at the upper radiator support beam (two bolts with 10 mm heads). Then there are about three push-pin fasteners that join the upper and lower half of the fan shroud. Once disconnected you may remove the upper fan shroud by wiggling it and rotating it slightly to get it past the fan. Next, put a wrench on the serpentine belt tensioner bolt located at upper left area of fan belt attachment. Turn the tensioner in toward the fan so the fan belt will slacken. Once the belt is off the tensioner you may release the tensioner (slowly). Look at lower half of fan shroud any make sure it is in the slots with rubber busings to allow good fit when reassembled. To remove alternator remove the two large bolts holding it in to accessory mount. It fits into the mount rather tightly, so you may have to pry up on the alternator by putting a large screwdriver, pry bar, or tire iron between the alternator case and the mount housing. It is doesn't work out, then trying tapping on it with a soft hammer like a dead blow hammer (plastic filled with steel shot). If not equipped you can use a common hammer but do it by placing a wood block against the alternator before striking. Remember, the case of the alternator is aluminum itself, and will not take much abuse. Any mechanic's core asset should be patience, especially when working on tedious parts replacement that may be quite difficult to remove. Once your are at this junction take a break, as leaning over the vehicle's radiator support can cause muscle fatigue in lower back area. I stand on what is similar to an old milk crate except it is constructed of wood. Now, simply work backward from how you took it apart. Caution: Do not accidentily strike the radiator fins, as you may cause your day to turn out badly by doing so. Some folks even tape up a section of cardboard with duct tape to protect it. The most challenging point of this repair may be the serpentine belt routing. There is a decal showing the routing of the serpentine belt on upper radiator support cover. One good thing about the serpentine belt and tensioner--there is no longer a need to wedge some tool as a prying device between the alternator and mount to get proper belt tension before tightening bolts.

remove belt, remove alternator plugs, then bolts. pull out alternator. then undo bolts for bracket and remove.

Due to EMF guidelines.

the government

1. disconnect the battery, 2. loosen the bottom pivot bolt which u will have to feel for because u really cant see it too well. it should be almost directly at the bottom of the alternator, 3. loosen the lock bolt(left side) on the tensioner and then begin to turn the tensioner rod/bolt to the right(gives slack in belt). this should be on the top left side of your alternator. after enough slack u can take off the whole tensioner unit. YOU WILL BE ABLE TO FREELY POSITION THE WHOLE ALTERNATOR ABOUT 50 DEGREES SINCE THE PIVOT BOLT WILL STILL BE INTACT BUT LOOSE ENOUGH. 4. un clip(2 little "push tabs") and un screw the 2 different electrical plugs on the back and under side of the alternator. 5. completely remove the bottom pivot bolt(#2) 6. basically wrestle out the alternator unit between engine, couple hoses and the firewall. PERFECTO! mission complete. depending on your situation #'s 5 and 4 switch around to make easier. Its ALWAYS a good idea to bring the old alternator with u when purchasing a new one. plus, they may knock a couple bucks off

i have had to replace my alternator 3 times due to my system :D but the first sign is usually your interior lights dimming and flickering when you are at a stop. such as your miles before empty gauge that would always catch my attention. and yes this is when your at night and your headlights are on. and you will hear your alternator constantly whining. i got a 250amp aftermarket one with a capacitor which solved my system problem :D

I have a 99 Windstar and when my mechanic replaced the alternator the battery light would not go out he took back about 2 alternators, stating that the alternator was not good, because the battery light stayed on. Finally, he had the last one he put in tested and it was fine, but the battery light still came on. He called a Ford mechanic and they said you have to use a ford alternator, because the computer can not recognize other brands of alternators. Once he did the light went out. He said occasionally it will recognize an off brand, but when it doesn't the battery light stays on and it can cause problems with the computer, and I believe he said the cyliniod could burn out. He just bought a re-built alternator from the ford dealer for about $199.00

first unhook the battery cables and then take the alternator belt loose and then take the 3 bolts out that hold the alternator on and take the wiring harness out of the alternator and the red battery cable off and it's out.

first disconnect battery, disconnect alternator and unbolt ground from it, loose two bolts on the sides there's a third bolt that it's located in the front of the alternator, this third bolt will release the pressure on the serpentine belt. when you're done doing this just keep unbolting the sides 'till come out and pull out the alternator, backwards for installation but make sure all the wires are well connected and everything in place, and try not to tight up the belt too much.

Tahoe City, CA

http://local.yahoo.com/?csz=Tahoe+City%2C+CA

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Lake Tahoe is a large freshwater lake in the Sierra Nevada mountains of the United States, located along the border between California and Nevada at Lake Tahoe's major bend west of Carson City. The area surrounding the lake is also referred to as Lake Tahoe, or simply Tahoe.

Could be diode in alternator out, causing excess "noise". Take your car to most any major nationwide automotive parts store for free in vehicle testing.

An alternator for such a car (for Example: Murano 06) Costs anywhere between $160-$220. Now of course if you take it to a shop they will charge for labor, so perhaps an additional $99 per hour.

Yes, if the bearings are failing.

An alternator does not need a gauge to work. It is used to monitor the output of the alternator.

An alternator in a 2000 model year Saturn LS1 is located in the engine compartment. It is on the lower left of the passenger side of the car.

Shake it , put a load tester or a 20 amp charge for 3 min.