Alternators

the alternator is right in the front behind the right side of the rad

The alternator itself will cost somewhere between $40 - $140 depending on where you get it and whether you get a new or rebuilt one. Labor should be under an hour.

Just hold the plug wire and pull the starter, you'll know if it's good.

it may be the starter going out doing it . it will kill the alternator if it keeps going . I know i had it happen to my 96 olds replaced the alt still didnt start and the starter fixed it

The voltage regulator (which is inside the alternator) on 97 rodeo's are controlled via the PCM/ECM (Power Control Module/Engine Control Module). A remanufactured alternator for the 97 Rodeo as well as the 97 Passport (Honda), usually will fhow failure while tested in car. On the bench test, however, the alternator tests normal. Aside of the normal problems to be ruled out, ie; alternator belt tension, check for loose connections within and around the alternator, try an original factory alternator. Is this problem affecting your blower motor?

take off the belt unplug the wire connector form the back of alternator take the nut off the back of the alternator that holds the wire that is connected to the positive battery terminal and take the two bolts on the bottom of alternator that holds it to the engine

to make a quick check -- start car - disconnect the positive cable at the battery as it is running - if car stalls the alternator is bad if it stays running the battery is probably too weak to hold a charge. (daddmac)

No. The 2004 Ford Explorer had the 4.0L SOHC V6 engine, while the 1996 Ford Explorer had the 4.0L OHV V6 engine. The 2004's V8s were a 4.6L V8, while the '96's V8s were the 5.0L V8. So, no....

The alternator is on the passenger side and between the engine and the compartment wall.

There is a three phase diode bridge in a vehicles alternator. The voltage is generated as three phase AC. The diode bridge converts the AC voltage to DC voltage. This is the DC voltage that is used to charge the battery of the vehicle and run the vehicles electrical systems and equipment.

You stop any engine by taking away fuel, air, or ignition. On a diesel it is usually easier to take away fuel.

Only disconnect it when ready to replace the alternator. The primary function of the battery is to store electricity needed to start the car. Secondarily, it stores electricity for use powering the electrical items on the car when the engine is off. If the alternator is not producing sufficient power to run the engine, the battery takes over. Once the battery is drained of its power, the engine will stop. You can jump-start a car whose alternator is faulty but battery is connected, and the car may run for a short time before the battery dies. If there is no battery, the car will start but not stay running once the jump device or cables are disconnected.

Original equipment would have had an external voltage regulator. Internal regulators came out in the 1973 model year for GM.

You can tape them off and tuck them away. One wirewas for the idiot light and the other wire was a trigger wire to excite the old alternator.

IF on the V6 engine: then according to Haynes repair manual, besides the usual 'disconnect battery, remove belt, etc', you have to REMOVE the Right Front Axle (VERY TEDIOUS) , AND unbolt the exhaust Y-pipe (usually rusted). Whole process looks tedious, compared to old, easy access, right-up-front alternators (pivot bolt and tensioner bolt)

You can test it your self. Start the car might be pain in butt if alternator is really dead if so let car sit for a little while and charge it self up. Also you can knock on alternator with a happer bunch of dust will fall out and it will get you enough time to drive for few day to go get new alternator and install it without car breaking down. Anyways start the car, then disconnect the negative wire on the car if it dies the alternator is dead if not then alternator is good.

An automotive alternator is a three-phase generator with a built-in rectifier.Some alternators have permanent magnets that generate electricity as soon as you turn the pulley. Others have a field winding that requires a +12 volt feed via carbon brush to create an electromagnet. Controlling this current also controls the main genarator output current.

Go out and buy a new plug from an auto parts store. The new plug may or may not come with what's called "butt connectors." If it doesn't come with the "butt connectors," then you may have to buy them separately. Don't forget these "butt connectors." USE THE CORRECT SIZE FOR THE BUTT CONEECTORS. Locate your old plug on the alternator and make sure it looks the same as the new plug. Then, DISCONNECT JUST ONE OF THE BATTERY POLES, EITHER ONE, IT DOESN'T MATTER WHICH ONE. CUT THE OLD PLUG FROM THE WIRE HARNASS AT LEAST HALF AN INCH BACK FROM THE CONNECTOR. Then take the new plug and splice it onto the wire harness using the right size "butt connectors." If you know how to solder the wires together, then please do so because its a good idea to do it. But if you don't know how or don't have a solder gun, it's ok, but when you finish connecting the plug onto the [alternator] wire harness just tape up the splice really good using black electrical tape so that water doesn't get into the splice.

It sounds hard, but its really simple. Just take your time and do it right the first time. The parts or supllies you might need is:

a pair of wire cutters

black electrical tape

a new alternator plug that can be purchased at an auto parts store [auto zone, NAPA, Carquest, Pep Boys, ect....]

Remove the alternator restraint bracket screws. Next, using a 15mm wrench turn the tensioner bolt located on the left side of the engine block (The side where the pulley assembly is). Turn just enough to push back and down. The tensioner should move loosening the belt and freeing the tension from the alternator. Then, remove all of the screws securing the alternator. Disconnect the electric ground cable from the rear of the alternator. Remove the alternator. Installing the new one is basically the reverse of the uninstall. Remember****** Don't fight with the belt. If it's too tight to put around the alternator loosen the tensioner. If you can't get the belt all the way over the alternator pulley, put it as far as you can and stabilize it with a pry bar. While holding the belt partially on the alternator pulley with the pry bar, have someone responsible bump the ignition. Do not turn the car on! Barely turn the key till the starter tries to turn. The belt should have jumped on now.

No more than 500 Watts RMS for the stock alternators on most cars

- review the Haynes or Bentley manual to orientate the parts

- Disconnect battery negative cable,

- Remove engine cover,

- loosen passenger side front wheel

- raise vehicle passenger front, set on stand , remove wheel,

- remove the electrical connections from the alternator, including the small nut which holds the wires to the alternator body.

- mark the belt direction with a crayon

- from underneath vehicle, release tension on belt by, using a 5/8" wrench and an extension, remove belt,

- remove the three 13mm bolts for the tensioner assembly. remove tensioner,( it may fall through to the bottom of the vehicle.

- loosen the two 13mm bolts holding the alternator

- Loosen the clamp and pull free the coolant hose next to the alternator, there will be some coolant loss, so have a rag handy

- place a rag under work area and remove the oil pressure indicator wire and switch from the side of the oil filter bracket. Pull wire aside

- from the top of vehicle, wiggle the alternator from its bracket. This may take some effort, as it is securely in place. From the bottom of the vehicle, with a screwdriver, you may be able to get it started by prying a small screwdriver between the alternator body an engine. Be careful, do not force too much. Forcing unevenly may jam the unit, requiring a start over.

- Once sufficiently loose, from the top of the compartment, slowly work the unit towards the oil filter bracket. Twist and turn unit pass the A/C hose. With patience it will come out.

- Install is reverse of above, put some grease in the bracket areas beforehand to help slide new unit in place.

GREAT rifle and easy to break down for cleaning, Best thing to do is unload it first then look at the owners manual as it gives a complete part break down

Remove the belt from your 1994 Chevy Astro Van 4.3 liter engine alternator. Remove the wiring harness from the back of the alternator. Remove the alternator retaining bolts. Reverse the process to install the new alternator.

Have done this many times in the past. Best advice. Find any Ford passenger car vehicle from 1965 up to 1970 with an alternator and a small block 289 or 302 engine as this will work. Use all the parts (brackets, wiring, etc.) from this vehicle. The brackets and equipment should just mount up (save all the fasteners when removing as you will need them) as long as the vehicles are similarly equipped. Note all the mounting holes on the engine as they will be the same. The dash gage and/or idiot light will also need to be exchanged. Note: the alternator needs a hot wire from the ignition switch where the generator did not. This can be checked by taking a steel screw driver and with the ignition switch in the on position, the alternator installed, it should magnetically slightly attract the screw driver. If you do not get 14 plus volts across the battery post connections (voltmeter) with the engine running, you have a wrong or bad electrical connection. Have the alternator checked first (free at most) at you local parts house before installing.