Car Heaters

Take the plastic engine cover off [just clips on] SF reservoir is one with white dot on it just in front of the oil filler cap. fill with steering fluid between min and max mark. Do whilst engine is cold

Over-obvious answer? Your radiator, or one of your radiator hoses, leaks - badly.

Disconnect both hoses that go to the heater core from either end, (the end at the heater core or the end at the water pump, manifold, radiator, etc.) using a garden hose, preferably with a hose repair end attached to plug into the hose or a short piece of hose cut off to connect to the heater core, run water in each direction through the heater core until water runs clear, then reverse direction of flow. Repeat as many times as necessary until flow is restored and water runs clean. Be sure to also flush the rest of the cooling system or debris from it will likely just clog up the heater core again.

well you could just turn the heater off heater blower

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If it is a car heater then check your coolant level. the heater is driven off a heat converter that is fed by the radiator system. When the coolant fails to pump round the radiator system the car internal heater doesn't work. Driving without coolant in the system will result in the engine overheating and seizing.

Locate and disconnect both heater hoses from engine or heater (whichever is easier). Fabricate pieces to attach garden hose to one of the hoses or nipples to heater. Add an extension to the other hose or nipple so to direct hose into a 5 gallon bucket (this helps keep the mess to a minimum). Gradually turn on the garden hose to wide open and flush until water runs clear. Shut garden hose off. Reverse connections and flush again until clear. Reattach hoses to engine. Refill coolant to proper level. Done.

May be separate problems. A small fuel leak in the engine may be the source of the 2 scents. A coolant leak may be the source of the poor heat and burning smell. Get it checked out before you have a serious problem. Next time you run the car, shut it off, lift the hood and try to smell where the source of raw fuel is, or any rising smoke.

you need to bleed the system. Correct bleed the system. Look for a bleeder valve, that will be located on the highest point of the cooling system. Look near or on the thermostat housing. Look at all the cooling system hoses and look for this valve. Now if you don't find a valve then there is one way that will help to remove air. Either park the car on a steep hill with the front of the car heading up the hill or simply jack up the front of the car as high as possible. Turn the heater temp to hot, remove the radiator cap and start the engine. Allow it to reach operating temperature with the cap off, and most of the trapped air will escape through the radiator inlet. Add coolant if need be to keep it full.

a bad water pump could cause low heat. The heater uses the coolant from the pump to generate heat.

If you have not had a balance and rotation on your tires within one year, this can cause shaking of your vehicle. Also, if you have a lift or heavy duty tires, your vehicle will be prone to shaking.

The most likely cause is a bad blower motor resistor.

Disconnect both hoses that go to the heater core from either end, (the end at the heater core or the end at the water pump, manifold, radiator, etc.) using a garden hose, preferably with a hose repair end attached to plug into the hose or a short piece of hose cut off to connect to the heater core, run water in each direction through the heater core until water runs clear, then reverse direction of flow. Repeat as many times as necessary until flow is restored and water runs clean. Be sure to also flush the rest of the cooling system or debris from it will likely just clog up the heater core again.

My 2001 Dodge Dakota R/T 's blower fan for the a/c unit quit working in mid use. I checked all fuses, and relays, with no success. Does anyone know how to remove the fan switch, and test it?

Hi, I just went through this with my 1999 Plymouth Breeze, but just the opposite. First of all, the needle of the temp gauge was consistently running warmer and warmer, to the point I was afraid it was going to overheat. That ended up being the thermostat being stuck shut. That cost me $220.00., because of seals that had to be replaced, replace all the coolant, etc, new radiator cap, seals, etc., it ended up costing $220.00, plus lost PTO from work and not so happy employer, but what can you do.

If your car is not blowing any heat, don't forget your thermostat can be stuck open. Then you won't have heat. If you water pump is bad, trust me you'll know, you won't get a couple miles before you realize that all of the coolant is running out, the car is overheating, there also might be noise (I heard knocking, I thought the engine was shot, although it did stop shortly after restarting). I lost all of the coolant I just replace with the thermostat replacement. When I saw the results of the coolant running out now and the smoke coming from the grill, that's when I realized that there wasn't enough coolant left in the radiator (because you can't try and keep the car from overheating if you use the extra fan that the heater helps with the car overheating), if you don't have any coolant left in the radiator, you won't get heat.

I have about 97,000 miles on my car, so to date, I've replace the thermostat, the water pump, the timing belt, all kinds of camshaft seals, etc., etc. the total I paid was $220 for the thermostat, $548 for the replacement of the water pump and the timing belt (since they were there, they did for the price of the parts). They will quote more, much more, my first quote was $651, I told them I don't have it. Knowing I wasn't kidding they worked with me, quoting $509. Then they called, and there were seals, camshaft seal, etc. as there was oil leaking, adding another $50.

Apparently, you really do need to look at the mileage on the car, suggestions on the internet suggest that this car will need a timin belt anywhere at or near this mileage. And, whichever happens first, the water pump, thermostat, or whatever, the timing belt at this mileage is probably going to need to be replaced from what I've read about the car. In all, I've put in $759, I know I can't buy a new car for this, and it kills me to pay it, but this car is difficult to get to these problems, I guess from the people I've talked to, to get to the water pump and the timing chain. So, all in all, I've had the car for four year, never a problem, but the problems get deeper and more extensive, tomorrow, I'll love it again, but as of today... money gone, pissed off employer.. I'm not happy, but don't forget I've had for four year, no money.. If I maintain, It's good for another 100k, or I say a prayer. Hope this helps

Vectra c air vent removal.

Prize along lower edge of tiim strip that runs from n/s of dash (above glove box) to side of instrument binacle. Tender so go steady. Once removed this reveales torx fixings to side vent and centre binacle vents. Remove torx and lever vent out from base.

P S you cant get your hand in to recover coins inserted by helpfull child car cleaners!!!!!

This requires hours to remove full dash and access the heater diverter pipes....ALL FOR 3 X 1p and 1 X 2P.

I've had this happen last year and took my 2002 Volvo s60 to an a/c shop. The honest mechanic played with the switches while engine was on, turned both knobs to heat and let the hot air blow for a minute...then he switched it over to cool and it went back to being a great a/c. He made a comment that he believed a part in the a/c was stuck and by playing with the controls like he did, put it back. He did add a smidgen of freon but sent me on my way without a bill. So try playing with the knobs first.

lower the engine from the car

Sounds like a significant amount of water somehow got into the PLENUM CHAMBER for the AC/heater cores. There is supposed to be a drain at the bottom of the plenum [for air conditioner CONDENSATE], but it must be stopped up. There may be other possible causes, but this is the only one I can think of. j3h.

I would suspect the thermostat is stuck in the open position so the water ( and motor ) never reach operating temperature. This is common where hard water ( water with a lot of minerals ) is in people's taps. I would suggest replacing the thermostat and draining out the coolant and replacing it with new antifreeze mixed with distilled water.

You could have an inoperative blend air door inside the dash, or the heater core is restricted internally.

It's possible that the heater door on the inside is stuck shut (this is what happened to mine). It's very costly to get it repaired/replaced, but you can open it from the engine side (I'm not sure how to do this, I just get my mechanic to do it every winter when I come in for maintenance). However, if you turn the knob to go from heat to AC, it will probably stick the vent shut again. So just leave it on heat all winter.

I've got a better question, why is this question in the Chevy venture forum ?

most likely cause is one of three relays for the blower motor, usually located on the firewall under a plastic covering or near the battery If you do not use the blower motor very often like your car sits for a few weeks mositure gets in the blower motor and causes rusting which can cause your blower motor to lock up. Best suggestion is to run you air conditioning unit on high for about half an hour every once in a while.

Check to see if your thermostat is working or if it's stuck in the radiator hose. This just happened to me. If that doesn't work try changing your fuse.

The most common issue is the heater / climate control valve. This can usually be tested in dual mode and checking for change in air circulation.

Sounds like a bad water pump, or belt is slipping for water pump.

Low coolant, stuck thermostat, etc.

The auxiliary heater in a?æVolkswagen Sharon tdi 1.9 is located under the LHS floor plan of the vehicle. Most Sharon's tend to have a problem with the auxiliary heater during the colder months.