Car Shaking Problems

Did you check your tires? If the steering wheel is rocking back and forth you could have a bubble in the tire

try haveing tires rotated and balanced, check for worn suspension and steerign components. does brake pedal pulsate when braking? out of round brake rotors can cause a shake in front end , or could be a caliper hanging up

have your transmission checked sometimes torque converter clutch isn t locking or unlocking properly

Yes, due to your motor being out of equilibrium when the car is running. Maybe you have blown a head gasket or dropped one of the cylinders. My car had that problem. It was due to me thrashing the car and blowing a head gasket, forcing the motor of my car to idle a lot higher and more erratically than usual.

A bad ignition coil normally won't allow your engine to start given there is no spark. If it is starting to go bad, it causes misfiring which can be noticed as a stutter, or random shake of the engine. Check the ground of the coil before replacing it.

If it is a 4 cylinder and you are standing in front of the vehicle looking at the engine the cylinder are numbered from your left to your right 1-2-3-4. If it is a V6 standing in front of the vehicle the rear plugs are from your left to your right 1-3-5 and the front three plugs are 2-4-6 left to right.

Maybe it is cold. cats hate being wet.

check your wheel bearing / hub bearing assy

If you're getting steering wheel movement at low speed it's usually caused by either a bent wheel, a damaged or bent CV joint/half shaft or a bad tire.

If it's the tire or the CV joint you need to take care of it immediately before something bad happens. If it's a bent wheel, that's an annoyance that only you can evaluate, but it's not as much of a safety issue as the other two problems.

good chance it is motor/transmissiom mounts. open hood, have friend start engine, have friend accelerate on and off several times, look to see if engine has noticable movement compare to another car with same engine/transmission configuration if movement is considerable consider mounts. don't let this go long Jim

put a jack under the engine or trans where you want to check the mount. place it in an area where it's solid. then while jacking it up look for an area of the mount that seperates, the rubber part of the mount will show up as a crack or you will see shiney metal where it broke. while jacking it up if you are just moving the trans or engine it's not broken.a broken mount shows up on one or two clicks on the jack once you have some pressure on it. good luck paul g

if front wheel drive check cv axles.

Check your CV joints. If the bearings are gone or the boot has been cracked and dirt/debris has gotten inside it will make some noise as you make turns and is most noticible at low speeds. check your shock towers?????

First, I would have your transmission checked. It sounds like the transmission is starting to go. I would rule this out first. Also, you could check the level of your transmission fluid, If it gets too low, it will make it start to slip, if it is low, check for a leak! Hope this is helpful!

5 Screws, 1 gromet, 1 coupler, and 20mins (if your slow like me) Remove the plastic cover under (not behind) the glove box. (2 screws 1 gromet) The round object is the blower motor - remove 3 bolts and it will drop down. You can clean it without disconnecting the coupler if you like. The wire runs through a clip, just pull it out to get more free play.

it could be a a couple of things your brake roters be warped due to overheating and sudden cooling off by driving thru water or it could be a worn tie-rod end a tie-rod problem would shake the steering wheel a roter problem would be felt with a shaking in the brake pedal.

A vehicle can be shaking and knocking when the speed gets over 50 mph if there is something wrong with the suspension. There might be a tie rod loose, a wheel that is out of balance, or the ball joints could be bad. This is a very dangerous situation that needs to be taken care of before an accident happens.

The icons on the dashboard of a Mitsubishi Pajero GDI usually referred to a possible problem. The engine icon means there is a problem with the engine.

You are dealing with 2 separate issues you need to look at. The pothole probably damaged a belt in the tire or knocked off a wheelweight or you might want to have the alignment checked.

The blowing sound you describe is a plugged exhaust system. Either part of the exhaust system is smashed or the honeycomb matrix (the guts) of your catalytic converter are broken up. Hit the outside of the catalytic converter with a rubber hammer and see if you can hear rattling in your converter. Or possibly the Air tube has broken off the catalytic converter.

Tire out of balance, bent wheel, defective tire, worn suspension or steering parts. Have the tires balanced, and all parts inspected.

No but Nexen tires are
If you mean Nexen tire then they are Made in Korea. a good tire for the money you spend.

U joints are replaceable. However, most u joints need to be pressed into the driveline yoke. So it is preferred to take vehicle to an auto shop if you do not know how to do this repair.

Front or Rear wheel bearings may need changing, can be a tire out of balance, bent wheel, motor count broken, just to name a few things.

Is it the entire wheel and tire or just the tire? A bent wheel can be caused by sliding into something or by hitting an object. If a wheel has been bent there is a strong possibility that it has weakened and should be replaced. Weakened wheels can be dangerous.

Since it happens when your braking, I would still believe that the brakes are the source. A shaking when braking almost always points to a brake rotor or brake drum that is out of shape. If the steering wheel wobbles during the shaking, it is from the front. Also, drive the car for 5-10 minutes, city driving, and then feel each rim to see if one is particularily hotter. (Expect both fronts to be hotter than rear ones)If it is the front, and the rotors where replaced, I would remove the rotors, return them to the parts store as defective, and put the second set on. when replacing them, be sure there the hub surface is clean and flat. Re-check the caliper slide surfaces that the are clean, not worn and coated with high temp caliper grease-(not anti-seize). Be sure the caliper piston is returning and is moving back and forth as it should be able to do. IF the problem is from the rear, replace either the drums and adjust the shoes if it has them or replace rear pads and rotors.