Car Stalling Problems

yes if you can find a dealer who sells one

Could be many reasons, so check obvious ones first, such as; worn spark plugs, vacuum leak - listen for hissing noises and check visually all hoses, idle speed to low- check AIC valve (try tapping on it, they often get stuck), Impurities in gas- add a fuel additive, Make sure gas cap is tight and correct one, If it only happens on damp days it could be bad wires op distributor cap-run at night and check for sparks with hood open.

Please describe "sounds like its out of time" without using the word "like". Your description is ambiguous. "Out of time" can mean more than one thing and can have several types of "sounds."

Please specify engine size.

The "venturi effect", a principle used by carburetors, causes a decrease in pressure where the fuel is drawn into the air stream. The pressure decrease can result in ice formation, which seriously affects the way the carburetor functions, and can result in stalling. Throttle body injection is also prone to this problem.

It's more common during rain because of the relatively cool temperature and the high humidity level in the air that's going into the carburetor.

New "production" vehicles have a carburetor de-icing that can pre-heat the air under conditions that may cause ice buildup.

Maybe a throttle positioning sensor? Is it hard to start? Does it start then stall?

you will not allways ave the bad smell, have another shop check out the problem chose the shop xou trust moast, not the cheapest... you get what you pay for

Contrary to popular belief, you shouldn't "warm up" your car's engine before driving it; I used to do this (mainly to heat the interior), but it's actually bad for the engine and fuel economy. 30 seconds of idle should be enough to get the oil warmed up to proper working temp, so drive immediately, but GENTLY for the first few minutes--yes, you'll be colder than if you leave the heater going before getting in, but your engine (and fuel tank) will thank you. Keep in mind that your brakes need time to warm up--another good reason to drive easy when you first get going. Also, at low temperature your battery will have a lower starting power; if you have trouble starting the car, try turning off the heater, radio, lights, and other accessories (and unplug any lighter-plug devices) while starting the engine.

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When its cold out, Give your car a few mins to get the molecules reacting faster in your oils, The oil works best when its at its warmer temps. Oil thickens in winter. Today its -2 degrees here this morning, so If you live in the country as I do, Warm it til warm air comes from the heater. Winter time is the time your thermostat sticks the worse, and could leave you stranded in the middle of no place. People die trying to walk in these conditions. Don't take a chance on getting stranded in the middle of winter. Good Luck and Take care {R}

The idle speed solonoid probably needs cleaning. It is on the throtle body

start by making sure the air filter is clean and before removing the idle air control assy, try cleaning the throttle plate and bore with a little carb cleaner. this may fix it and you wont have to deal with all the baloney of removing the throttle body. it will run bad for a few seconds but it will clear....i promise

It is a safety feature mechanism. It recognizes that drives hard enough to break the engine so it looses power until it is shut off. It then believes a more responsible person starts the car so it goes back to normal. Why are you trying to blow your engine??? Can't say why, not familiar with the term "120kmh". However, You may have been warned, by the light, not to "stay at 4krpm 110-120kmh" or not to "downshift rev hard". It could be that the emission sensors are overloaded by the down shifting and the computer can't maintain the power. The computer may be telling you, via the warning light, to KNOCK IT OFF!

I would suggest that the Choke is switching off and then the idle is set too low

Tap the block or head with a hammer while the vehicle is running. If the engine slows down as you are doing this, it is sensing "knock" and trying to compensate by retarding ignition timing. Tap the block or head with a hammer while the vehicle is running. If the engine slows down as you are doing this, it is sensing "knock" and trying to compensate by retarding ignition timing.

I would go to a GM dealer parts dept and buy "top engine cleaner". Follow the directions to clean the intake runners and intake valves, use the entire can , all at once on a HOT engine. Then buy a can of Jectron fuel injection cleaner. This is made by Lubro Moly. Foreign car parts places generally carry it. Fill the car tank and dump the can into the tank. Jectron does an excellent job cleaning the injection system. FLAPS (friendly local ayto parts stores) may also carry Jectron but not here in Phoenix. Run tank down to near empty and re-fill. Now change the oil since all this cleaning has put junk into the oil that you don't want in the engine. It sounds like the intake system is crudded up and by rennuning the AC system the idle is bumped up so the unit can idle. Let us know how you make out.

Have you checked the starter? Check cables to starter or jumping solenoid to see if it will turn over. If you have to, remove the starter and get a battery with a set of booster cables, put the starter in a vise gently and try it with booster cables directly to see if it works. If it doesn't work at that point You've already got it out so go get a rebuild or new one and put it in.

1991 mitsubishi eclipse 2.0L starts 2 to 3 seconds later shuts off

My son has a 1989 Pontiac Bonneville LE with a 3.8 Liter engine with Air Conditioning. He was experiencing stalling while driving, and intermittent problems restarting the vehicle unless he waited for a while. He also had problems restarting the car after about 10 mins. If it ran, the car would run fine (i.e. no hestiation or jerkiness). This did not appear to exhibit any attitudinal, acceleration or turning issues that would bring it on. The 'Service Engine Soon' light would come on intermittently, but no noteable engine noises or performance while driving. Our mechanic was able to get the Code read, which was "34 - Mass Airflow Sensor". They changed it out and he no longer has the problems. Note that we had the charging system checked out a couple of days before we finally brought the car to our shop, but it was OK. I hope this helps you!

The ac compressor pump may be seized.

Check the coil pak. Known to do this. I own a '95 Neon that is doing JUST THIS SAME THING! Today I decided that I would change the ignition coil, but oddly that DID NOT solve the problem. I'm exactly sure what the problem is now....any other ideas??? It is a ECT sensor problem. Im positive ya, check the sensors if changing the coil pack did not work. I find that ignition modules are more apt to have the problem described, coils are usually consistent. I agree. If the coil checks out OK, then the ignition module, attached to the distributor, cuts out at a higher temperature. i have a 1996 neon it is doing the same thing. I got the ignition coil replaced, didnt work. a complete tune up, didnt work. recently had the throttle body cleaned, didnt work. i think

Grinding noises, wandering steering, strange tire wear.

passenger side under dash

You will have to remove the two kick panels under the dash board on the passenger side. There will be one in the center of the truck and another one on the passenger side. There are six 7mm bolt's that hold on the kick panels on. The panel in the center may have the optional 12V accessory plugins, this you will not have to remove simply let panel hang out of the way. When the kick panels are out of the way you can then remove the three 7mm bolt's holding on the glove compartment door. once removed the flasher is now exposed. It is on the right side of a wiring distribution block if it's still as it was from the factory there will be a green strap that will be holding it in it's socket.

The throttle body is getting iced up, put on a different style air filter, or eliminate the warm air return on the intake hose. On a different note, It could be the ignition coil failing when it gets hot, Quite a common problem . Check for spark as soon as it stalls .

crank or camshaft sensor check for codes

put your beauiful car on the neutral when you're braking you'll stop to stall

There could be several reasons. Improper fuel pressure, a maladjusted throttle position sensor, a throttle plate that needs cleaning or a mass air flow sensor. But why would you want to guess when you can have it scanned for codes and then you would know the reason.

A warped rotor can cause a vehicle to have an intermediate hop in one of the wheels. Check to see if the brakes of the car need to be serviced.