Car Starting Problems

get what?

Assuming you have already checked the obvious, the serpentine belt tensioner and belt. A common cause of the squeal in 4.0 Ford engines is the camshaft sychronizer (takes the place of the distributor on DIS, distributorless ignition systems). It sounds very similar to a belt squeal and is often mis-diagnosed as a belt being loose or worn. The noise can be intermittant, but if the noise is there when you have the hood up use a simple mechanic's stethoscope to help pinpoint the source of the noise. == == The most likely culprit is a serpentine belt or the belt tensioner. Try replacing the serpentine belt. If the noise persists, replace the belt tensioner. See the related article "Serpentine belt and Tensioner FAQ for the Ford Explorer all models"

Try resetting the fuel cut off switch and see if the engine will start

It probably is not the key. It could be the battery or starter.

Try lubricating it with powered graphite. If that does not work then the ignition tumbler assembly may need replacing. They do wear out over time. Of course you may be using the wrong key.

battery or corroded connection on battery

One click most likely is a bad starter motor or solenoid.

Many clicks battery or connection problem.

Cars that have electronic fuel pumps, has to have at least 40 psi. This is true for all vehicles since the fuel injectors needs this much pressure to operate properly.

What I was told is that you look at the belt; if you see more than 7 "cracks" per inch, it is time to replace the timing belt.

A timing belt can look perfectly fine and be ready to break. This is why they are replaced at a scheduled mileage or every 10 years no matter what they look like. So the bottom line is you cannot know when it needs replacing by just looking at it. Your owners manual will list when it needs replacing.

Check for a loose or corroded battery cable Engine seized? Bad starter? Bad starter solenoid? Bad neutral safety switch?

Charge by the hour. Some models take more time.

sound like a bad key tumbler go to auto parts store and buy a new one.

Multiple "clicks" check for a weak battery

Check fr loose or corroded battery cables Single "click"

Maybe a bad starter solenoid

Some cars have a cooling fan to cool the engine and keep it from overheating. I had a car with this fan when I lived in southern CA. If you parked the car in the sun, at times it would start up, bu itself, an hour after you had turned the car off. Sometimes, they stay on after you turn the car off. Check your owner's manual. If you don't have one, go to the Library. They have all kinds of manuals.

Yes your truck will not start unless you replace this resistor. You can find the part in any good junk yard or from a good parts store like Napa.

Try using a little starting fluid to see if it will run briefly. If it starts then dies as soon as you quit using starting fluid, the problem is related to fuel. Check the fuel pressure at the injectors. Most vehicles have a fuel pressure test port and you should be able to find out the proper fuel pressure for your vehicle/engine. If fuel pressure is low or non-existant, check the fuel filter and the fuel pump.

There are a lot of reasons that a car might not start even if it is getting fuel and spark. It depends what kind of car it is. It could be something as small and simple as a bad starter or solenoid or something as complicated as a stretched timing chain. What are you working with?

Disconnect the battery. Remove the air temp sensor, air filter hose, and accessory drive belt. Drain the radiator and remove the hoses from the water pump. Remove the distributor cap and rotor, and replace with new ones.

Yes,, Its happening to me. I have a 2006 Forenza. Seems lke it happens more when the car is cold. I brought it back to the dealer and they did an idle "relearn" Needless to say,, it didn't work,,,, So' I'll have to bring it back again If this is the same thing that happened to me, I was told to turn it "on", press the brake, downshift to 3rd, then put it back in Nuetral. Worked for me..happens once in a blue moon now and each time I do that it starts. Good luck..

If you have just replaced this starter then you probably have it hooked up incorrectly. If it is still the same old starter, then it has shorted out inside and needs to be replaced.

There is either a wire touching the frame or you have a faulty electrical device somewhere in the vehicle. You'll need to follow the wiring diagram and trace back through the biggest current draw. If it's not a wire touching the frame check the alternator and other potentially large current drains. FYI, if an alternator fails it CAN start putting a large drain on the system. Disconnect the alternator to see if the problem goes away. If not, start trying to isolate the problem.

la

Well..i saw my dad do this when my uncles car didnt start- you can get someone you know that has a good running car and boost yours with those things with the clipperz at the ends lol...but...yeah- hope you can find out more info about this from what I've said lol.

-Kalin

Yes, A car battery can have enough charge to turn on car electrical components but not start the car. This is not much of an indication of a bad battery however. Use a volt meter to test the power in the battery. If the battery seems low put it on a trickle charge. Most modern chargers will tell you if your battery is bad or not. The battery also has to be load tested to determine if it's good or not.

It is called 'bench testing' and requires that the starter be removed from the vehicle. Many repair shops and some parts shops can do a bench test cheaply, sometimes free, if the removed starter is brought to them. Firstly, after removing the starter, check the bendix gear (small gear inside the starter on a shaft) for excessive wear, cracks, or breakage. If any exists, replace the gear or entire starter as necessary. The bendix can often, but not always, be replaced by itself cheaply. Bench testing is done by securing the starter in some fashion, usually in a vise, but it can be strapped to something solid or held down with your foot (carefully, when voltage is applied the starter will want to jump, roll and twist with sometimes huge torque). Once the starter is secure, positive electricity is applied to the correct solenoid wiring stud (usually from a vehicle battery with jumper cables), and then the negative cable is touched to the to the starter housing. What should happen is that the bendix (small gear on the starter shaft) should fly down to the tip of the starter shaft and spin. If the bendix spins, but doesn't shoot down the shaft, the starter solenoid is bad. Replace the solenoid. This is usually cheaper than replacing the entire starter, but check both prices and judge the best action. If nothing happens at all, try a different wiring stud (if more than one is present). If still no response, the starter probably needs to be replaced. When obtaining a new starter, take the old one along for reference and possibly a confirmation bench test to determine the correct parts required.