Car Starting Problems

If it is very far out of time it will not start

The 1998 Honda Accord main relay switch will cost approximately $125 to replace. You can save $75 by replacing the switch yourself.

The choke on the carberator is stuck open so it allows too much air for the amount of fuel needed to start the car. If you look in the top of the carb, there is a flap that is probably stuck straight up and down. In cold weather, that flap is supposed to be sideways and closing off the opening of the carb.

Expanding on the above answer, while warming up, this choke flap is controlled by an electrically heated coil (automatic choke), this sits on the side of carb and is about 2" in circumference. It has two screws holding the face of the thing in position. When loosened, the face can be rotated to adjust the coil inside/level of choke, there are marks to show the normal position as a reference.

This will get the engine started in the cold, but is probably compensating for some other problem, and may make engine run rich once warm.

Steve

If you have not replace the spark plugs and plug wires then you may need to replace them. Your check engine light should be on if that is the problem. You may also have a vacuum leak so check all vacuum hoses.

if you are carbureted you probably need a rebuildcarburetor kit,unless your fuel pump is not putting out enough voltage to push fuel. Good Luck...

Have the alternator checked.

Could be starter solenoid - Follow + battery cable should connect to solenoid

Ignition swtich?? Wiring ok from battery? Check all the grounds to engine and chassis... peek at a manual for a diagram// See if your local library has a professional shop manual to look at for free... dave

Most likely the ignition/key switch. Very common problem with ION.

Jim

The battery light can be on for several reasons. A bad alternator is the top cause in my experience. Have the charging system tested and see what is going on.

When you try to start engine is there any noise,such as clicking from area of starter?If you can hear a clicking , this usually indicates poor connections.To trouble shoot starter problem, the first thing i would do is determine if it is starter or solenoid.To do this ,you need a remote starter switch,connected to starter solenoid.Solenoid is located either on the starter,or on firewall in engine bay,depending on what vehicle you have. if you dont have a remote switch, you can short the solenoid terminals with a screw driver.When shorting, if the solenoid is good you will hear clicking.If you dont hear anything , replace the solenoid.If you hear clicking and starter doesnt work, pull the starter out and replace .

soudns like it is not getting enough fuel, try replacing the fuel filter, if that does not work check the fuel pump

there is a possibility that it may be a vaccum leak aswell. check all you lines.

This normally means that your battery is dead, but could also be related to a faulty starter motor. Here is a quick way to narrow it down...
1. turn on all your lights, including the dome (interior) light.
2. Insert key and proceed to start vehicle.
If all the lights immediately go very dim or completely out when you engage the ignition that means its time to check your starter motor, because something in it is wrong, and its drawing out all the juice from the battery.
(Auto-Zone does free starter and gen. and battery testing).
If the lights stay on or barely dim, and you hear a clicking noise, then its time to replace or recharge your battery. Also make sure to check your positive and neg. cables for excessive corrision or faulty connections because that won't help matters any.

Hoped this helped,
Good Luck,
Mrkhh.

Ok, I have an active dealer code figured out. You're going to need to take a pen and paper with you out to the car.

1) Go out to your car, and put the key to the 'on' position (not run). When the radio turns on, press and hold #2 and #3. After about ten seconds, three numbers will appear on the screen. Take your time and write these down.

2) After you have the first three numbers, press and release the AM/FM button. Three more numbers will appear on the screen. Write these down.

3) With your new-found 6-digit code, go inside and call 1-800-537-5140. It's just an electronic answering machine. Once the guy finishes talking, press 202108, followed by the *Asterisk* button (not pound).

4) He'll then tell you to enter in your 4- or 6-digit code, followed by the star/asterisk again. So, type in the numbers you got out of your radio, and hit star/asterisk.

5) He'll then tell you your 4-digit unlock code. Write it down.

Most likely the ticking you are hearing is that from your solonoid. This is generally related with insufficient power from the battery.

it is under the black plastic plenum ,and attached to rear of fuel injector spider...remove elecrtical sensor wires....disconnect 2 metal fuel lines remove plenum...fuel pressure regulator is a small round item on rear of spider,with a hose connection pointing up, and no hose attached....inside there is a screeen that will get clogged by trash,and cut down fuel volume...but not necessarily pressure...easy to take apart to clean...

The usual, poor performance, misfiring, stalling general noticeable difference. First rule out that you have no problems with the engine or running electrics. have blamed fuel(petrol) in the past only to find I had overlooked a problem caused by an airleak on the inlet manifold.

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You cannot reset it... The computer checks for the current resistance every time you start the car... in other words... it resets itself everytime you turn the key on. If it still won't start the next time, its because it still isn't reading the correct resistance. The only difference between the Passlock system and the older PassKey system is that the resistor is built into the ignition switch instead of the key. This way, any key that will turn the ignition will start the car (because turning to the on position lines up the resistor in the switch) but the car still cannot be hotwired. If one of the wires sending the resistance reading to the computer is pinched, severed or disconnected... or if the resistor in the ignition switch is worn, the computer cannot read the correct resistance and disable the starter and fuel injectors for 3-5 minutes. The resistor may just be dirty... buy "brake and electric motor cleaner" from NAPA and spray it in the keyhole. If this doesn't work check the two small wires going to the switch in the steering column or you may need a new ignition switch. If the ignition switch is replaced, the cars computer will have to be set to the new resistance. Look in your owner's manual. I remember something about the radio and having some computer features that make you have a security code to get your car to start up again. I had that problem and GM says to place in park, shut off the ignition and get out of car, locking it as to depart then unlock and get in, insert key, turn to ACC and turn the lights on and off three times then turn ignition off and on to start the engine . The Security light was flashing in the message center the week before it would not start.

Probable fuel system problem. Have it looked at by a trained mechanic.

sounds liks it could be the starter selinoid ,if you have access to a used auto parts dealer i would recommend getting a used one and try first ,it cost less money and may last a long time . also most electrical parts are none returnable when purchased new .

what you have to determine is if the engine is a DOHC (SC2, SL2, SW2) or SOHC (SC1, SL1, SW1) engine. they should be interchangable given the engine is the same.

Doesnt have to even be the same, single or dual have basically the same lower ends so you can swap any 1.9 Saturn starters.

Do any of your lights work ? If not , it sounds like a bad battery cable connection or a

dead battery The light all works the battery cable and connection or ok,

it is a auto matt,

You may have a bad starter solenoid. You did not say what type of van this is; location can vary. Check power to the keyswitch. If there's power IN, be suspicious of the keyswitch itself. you may also want to check yhe neutral safety switch. if you play with the shifter move it up and down and when you put it on park again the van turns on you have found your problem.also try putting your vehicle in neutral check if it works. when neutral safety switch is bad the symptoms would be, nothing happens when the key is turn.. this is the same symptom for the starter relay problem. try a headlight start test. turn on your headlights, try turning your vehicle on if the lights stay bright you may have an open in the starting system. if the lights dim you may have a shorted starter solenoid or a bad ground.

ignition switch is bad. ignition is where the key goes. also try checking your starter.

Gen-R