Car Starting Problems

Haven't heard of vapor lock with electronic fuel injection. That was a problem when vehicles had a carburetor. What seems to be the problem with your vehicle?

Look in the owners manual for the fuel shut off reset. The fuel shut off is for accidents and limits fire hazard.

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Remove the serpentine belt , runs alt , AC and such try to start if starts, and probly will, check to see which pulley or unit is seized up Alt AC water pump

The VT Commodore might turn over a few times and then start if there are teeth missing on the flywheel. The starter wires might also be shorting out or loose.

It has nothing to do with oil pressure. You probably are starving for fuel at startup. Possibly a defective fuel pressure regulator, clogged fuel filter, or a weak fuel pump. Try turning the key on and waiting for around 10 seconds before starting. I would replace the fuel filter before going any farther.

If the switch is properly bypassed, then yes.

I just replaced one 4/23/08 on a 2000 trooper with 4wd-auto tranny. Service manual says to remove exhaust pipe and sensors to make room. I didn't want to mess with busted studs and rusty bolts. Saw a guy post on here that (on a rodeo/passport), after removing the mounting bolts he took the starter apart and removed it in three pieces. Then reinstalled it the same way. IT WORKS !! After disconnecting the battery and removing pos wire and clip on the solenoid, remove solenoid slide it out., Then remove starter motor from base, slide it out, followed by the base. After testing to see what was wrong with it. Practice taking the old one apart and putting it together a few times to get familiar with orientation. When you're ready to install the new starter, have it apart and put tape(NOT TOO MUCH) on the starter motor to hold the gearing and long screws intact while installing. May want to mark base and motor assy with fingernail polish to see them line up easier while lying on your back. Put base cap in first,followed by motor(try holding upward so gears don't try to fall out(TAPE). Get a few turns on the long screws and remove the tapeI used needle nosed pliers), then tighten all the way making sure shift lever is centered. While putting the solenoid on make sure it meshes with the shift lever before tightening . BE PATIENT>Go ahead and hook up the starter wire to the solenoid, then starter wire clip and the pos battery cable. You can now mount the whole assembly as one. CHECK FROM TIME TO TIME THAT SMALL RUBBER DRAIN HOSE ON UNDERSIDE OF STARTER HASN'T been knocked off. You'll need 14mm socket and extension and universal for the starter mount bolts. 8mm, and 10mm nut driver for starter and solenoid removel/install from base. 12mm wrench for pos wire and starter to solenoid wire. Torque for for starter to engine=30ft.lb solenoid to base=41 in.lb starter to base=48 in.lb Should'NT take but a few hours to do the whole job with a break or two in between.

Got the rebuilt starter w/lifetime warranty for $115 from autozone. good luck

p.s. When removing starter motor from base DON'T mess with the two small Phillips screws. Just the two long bolts 8mm.

If the car overheated, you may have warped the aluminum head. You may have to have the head shaved and a new head gasket put in.

The 1994 Pontiac Grand Prix gear selector wire can be found beneath the center console. The gear selector wire will go to the instrument panel.

If it is fuel injected. It is likely the computer, that run the fuel injection system. This is located behind the glove box.

no this is not a computer problem.it is either a starter motor problem or the ring gear on flywheel is worn

firstly you need to buy a bypass tool from supercheap auto. Then all you need to do is plug it in to the immobiliser, press go and you're done.

no fuel getting to engine

Probably wore out ignition key or switch or needs lubrication.

If the key will not turn the ignition on a Lincoln Town car, the key may have been damaged and might need to be re-coded. The ignition could also be damaged or locked because of an incorrect key.

I would check the starter solenoid before I investigated the starter - it's likely the cause. Have someone try starting the car hot while you measure the voltage between the starter side of the solenoid and negative - you should get battery voltage. If not, the problem is the solenoid (or somewhere before it, electrically).

In all of my years working on automobiles I have never heard of an "alternator switch". Not too sure what that would be or how it would affect the engine running unless perhaps you battery is too discharged to run the engine.

Two things are required for an engine to be able to start and run. Those are gasoline and spark. So the first thing to do is find out if you still have spark and gas when the engine is not starting. To do that check the fuel pressure at the schrader valve, it should be about 45 lbs not running, it will drop some when the engine is running. If there is not enough ongoing pressure the gasoline will not be able to pass through the fuel injectors.

If you have fuel pressure then check the spark plugs for spark at the plugs. I do that with and inductive timing light.

If it has air bags, don't try. If it has a security chip on the keyswitch, don't try. If it doesn't have either, remove the steering wheel and expose the turn signal switch. You should be able to see one or more screws that hold the switch assembly in place. Remove the screws, pull the switch and take it with you to an auto parts retailer. You should be able to get a new keyswitch assembly there. Note that it's only the lock mechanism. You aren't really doing anything to the electrical.

Ah, you have made one of the most common and easiest mistakes to make in automotive maintenance. Because the 'battery voltage' idiot light came on, you assumed that the battery was bad. Did you have an automotive electrical specialist test the electrical system on your car? Did you have the battery tested at a battery shop? Did you know that there are 3 primary parts to an automotive electrical system, and anyone of them can be responsible for the system operating below required voltage levels? Most modern automobiles generate electricity with a device called an alternator, which is driven by a belt from the crankshaft. The alternator generates Direct Current, at voltages up to 20 volts, in some cases. To keep the alternator from frying the battery, a Voltage Regulator is used to control the output of the alternator. This insures that the battery is only charged with a current of 18 volts, or less. Most modern alterators have the voltage regulator inside, but on older cars, the voltage regulator is mounted on the fender or the firewall, somewhere in the engine compartment. So, the alternator generates the electricity used to charge the battery, but the voltage regulator controls the output of the alternator. If the alternator is going bad, it may not be generating enough voltage to charge the battery. The battery is usually a 12 volt battery, and must see more than 12 volts to charge. Or, the alternator output might be reduced to an unusable level by the voltage regulator. Before you replace the entire electrical system, take the car to an automotive electrical specialist for testing. They can determine exactly which component is not working, and repair it. (Note: If the voltage regulator is bad, this DOES NOT mean that the entire alternator must be replaced! In almost all cases, the voltage regulator can be replaced by disassembling the alternator. If the specialist insists that the alternator must be replaced, I would recommend getting a second opinion, even though testing is often not free. Voltage regulators are fairly cheap, and can be replaced by a competent technician without too much difficulty. Alternators are expensive.)

If you can jump start the car then the battery is not fine. Remove the battery cables and thoroughly clean them. If it still will not start check the voltage at the battery with the engine off. You should get 12.6 volts if the battery is fully charged. 12.4 it is 75%, 12.2 it is 50%, and 12.0 it is 25% charged. I would bet your battery is defective.

Found answer here www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&t=480791 It covers the Vauxhall Astra as well which has the same Mechanism as the Zafira Hope this helps

Closely examine the entire length of the fuel line to see if there are ANY pinhole fuel leaks. Even the slightest amount of fuel seepage will result in a vacuum leak and that would cause the fuel line to suck air when the vehicle is facing uphill. If it's a small leak the action of the fuel pump could eventually overcome the leak, driving any trapped air out.

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