Car Stereos and Speakers

E22 : Motor Error Cause(s): The CD motor is not handling the compact disc properly. Correction(s): Service or exchange the unit at an ACDelco

well 6 3/4 front doors and 4x6 on back door panels according to schoche website

for an exact answer, you can go to crutchfiled.com and it will allow you to look up specific sizes for any year,model, etc. what i have found for my dodge truck is 6x9 for the fronts.

In wats, an average nice system has about 250 wats

What is dual CD player wire color codes?

There are 6 stock locations for speakers in the Mk4/5 L200: In each door there is a grille for 5.5" or 6" drivers, and either side of the dash are grills for 3.5" drivers.

To access the front door speakers you need to remove the door card. The speakers are mounted on a plastic tube-type extension which fixes to the inner door skin. Remove the 4 mounting screws taking care that the old driver doesn't fall. Disconnect the two wires from the driver by separating the female spade attached to the wire, from the male spade attached to the driver, noting their orientation with respect to a "+" or red mark on the driver connectors. They can be quite stiff to remove so this is best done with a pair of pointed pliers gripping the cable connector just above the spade or by gently twisting a flat-bladed screwdriver to push the cable connector (female spade) off the driver connector (male spade). Reconnect the wires to your new 5.5" or 6" driver, observing orientation as above. Insert the new driver into the mounting hole. Check that the driver mounting holes line up with the holes in the plastic extension tube, before inserting the mounting screws removed earlier, with washers as necessary. Replace the door card and do the other side!

Accessing the back door speakers is similar to the above however rear speakers were optional, as were the mounting tubes and cables. A few telephone calls to breakers yards should find a pair of the tubes. Cables can be installed by carefully inserting a wire coat-hanger through the rubber cable gland between door and chassis, attaching the cable and pulling back the coat-hanger. the cable can then be pulled through the side pillars to the floor pan and routed under the carpets to the location of your amplifier.

Access to the front 3" grilles requires the removal of the lower dashboard panels and glovebox. Removing the two mounting screws will release the driver. Remove the two wires as above. These cables go back to the head unit connectors. Additional cables can be installed to the doors as above, for example to connect to crossovers mounted in the doors.

it is possible to install a sub-bass box behind the rear seats. Removing the centre armrest rear casing helps with the measurements and gives a little more space for bass box! Alternatively, use a large plastic bag part-filled with expanding foam to make a mould which can then be measured more easily, and used as a reference during construction of the box. Because space is limited, big drivers are out. However, a pair of shallow-mount 10" drivers can make it impossible to see through your rear-view mirror for the vibrations.

http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/stereodetail/100.html

use 4 gauge spade crimp connectors

First ground your amp and cap, amp has a ground slot usually and connect the caps negative terminal to a ground. then you take the power cord running from your battries positive terminal to the poitive terminal on the cap. also hook up a power cord running from your amps power input to the positive cap terminal

This is the correct color combo for my '92 Storm Gsi LR+ RR+ | clip|IGN LF+ RF+ ----------------------------------- | X X X X X X X | | X X X X X X X | ----------------------------------- LR- RR- gnd l BAT LF- RF- l illum. clip-the release clip LR--Left Rear RR--Right Rear LF--Left Front RF--Right Front IGN--Ignition/power wire--Red BAT--Memory wire--Orange gnd--Ground wire--Black Illumination--Yellow OR This Constant 12V+ Red Switched 12V+ Orange/Yellow Ground Black Illumination Red/Green Dimmer Green/Red Antenna Driver's Pillar Front Speakers 6 1/2" Doors Left Front (+) Orange Left Front (-) Black/orange Right Front (+) Gray Right Front (-) Green/gray Rear Speakers 4" Tail Gate Left Rear (+) Yellow Left Rear (-) Blue/yellow Right Rear (+) White Right Rear (-) Red/white (1) Yellow - Left rear speaker positive (2) White - Right rear speaker positive 3 Red with green stripe - not used 4 Orange with yellow stripe - 12v switched (5) Orange - Left front speaker positive (6) Grey - Right front speaker positive (7) Green - Right front speaker negative (8) Black with orange stripe - Left front speaker negative 9 Red - Constant 12v 10 Green with red stripe - Illumination 11 Black - Ground (12) Red with white stripe - Right rear speaker negative (13) Blue with yellow stripe -Left rear speaker negative

A mono amp is an amplifier that puts out only one channel of sound, as opposed to a stereo amp that puts out two channels of sound. A mono amp is generally used for extremely low frequencies (ie bass) that are channeled into a single subwoofer. It doesn't matter that both stereo channels are combined for these low bass frequencies because you couldn't tell which channel the sounds are coming from anyway (because you feel the sound pressure more than hear the sound).

The availability of wiring schematics will depend on a few variables including the year of your vehicle and how much of the vehicle is factory original. For original schematics, check your local auto parts stores for repair books for your specific vehicle published by companies such as Chilton's or Haynes.

See if unhooking the battery terminals for a few minutes doesn't reset the system and allow access to the radio.

Well um hmm see the problem with that is there are a lot of different kinds of 1500 watt subs let alone if they are 1500rms or peak an if they are single or dual voicecoils, an if it runs at 1,2,3,4 ohm etc. So first before you start lookin around at amps you should try and figure out what the wattage(should say something like power handling) is lookin like on those woofers an see the ohms(it should just say like 1 ohm 2 ohms 4 ohms etc but there mite be a little symbol that looks like this Ω that's the symbol for ohm). You may also want to check the frequency response see if they are made to hit the real lows or the higher up bass(Etc. 35-250Hz) This is important because now that you have verified this, now the search for an amp has narrowed quite a bit. Now what you want to do is think about your options for what type of amp. Since you are only going to be powering those two subs, it would be ideal just to get a 2 channel amp. BUT BE CAREFUL! There are some amps that don't have clip protection and it is in a lot of the lower end amps. NOT ALL so you just need to make sure it says something like "Current Overdraw and Low Impedance Protection circuits" or somethin along those lines. So lets Just say for example your woofers are 1500 rms(root means squared) each 3000 watt peak each an they run at 1 ohm. You would want to look for a amp wit good protection circutry an that is prefferably matching up the wattage. So a 2 channel 6000watt peak amp that is runnin (1500watt rms x 2 @ 1 ohm, 1200watt rms x 2 @ 2 ohm) etc. This way you arent starvin the sub or over powering it, its goin clean. After that its just all bout wirin it up good an makin sure the gain is at an appropriate level.

go to: http://installdr.com/Harnesses/Nissan-Wiring.pdf

I wouldn't...first most after market amps require a certain amount of power for proper function, such as a good ground, a good power source, some sort of RCA audio input, and a remote turn on. I know trying to figure out the same thing once. Plus most factory amps are just a plug of 16 gauge wires, and by time you through all of them to figure out power,ground,and remote, you still have to figure out how to send and input to your after market amp. Lets say you did do it and figured it all out, once you turn your deck on the after market amp probablly would go right into protect due to not having enough power. Either way save yourself the headache and buy a head unit with all the right outputs, splurge a little on a nice power wire( i prefer rockford with 30 amp inline fuse) and some RCA's (which usually come with a remote on them) and do it right. It will sound better,be safer then taking the chance of frying your cars wiring, and be worry free!

Bigger Sound.

This may or may be the case with your factory amp. I have a 2000 Ecliplse with "Infinity Package" .... to the point there is a plug of wires hitting the amp. ( Get a book for car and ground to light tester. w/ the alligator clip) my amp has two volt wires (in, and distributed) To be clear this technique should be used only for input power!! Ground your aftermarket Amp!!!! Also I agree above finding the remote can be tricky. This will however save the extra time of running battery wire. {splice volt1 wire and run to aftermarket amp power in or positive bypassing the factory amp for now. LOOP V1 so that you aftermarket, usally higher in amperage is powered before the factory ampuse common sense you may may fry the 50 watt BS amp. In my case I have left the distributive out V2 intact for now. should be able to run extras or whatever thats how my dash lights are working for now.

The other is answer is both right and wrong. I recently ran my battery dead and my jvc stereo plays one song and won't eject. This is obviously a problem that shouldn't exist but it was caused by the power supply being removed. I have not found the answer in the owners manual of anywhere else for that matter. When i do i will post immediately

For a JVC KD-G200 car stereo / CD

See if "No Eject" is set. Press the CD button and the CD Eject button at the same time for more than 2 seconds. "NO EJECT" or "EJECT" will flash, obviously you want eject. (JVC pg 16)

This did not work for me; I had to reset the system. Press and hold for more than 2 seconds the select and power button. The system powered down and the CD came out. Of course, all of the radio presets went away. (JVC pg 2)

http://resources.jvc.com/Resources/00/00/95/GET0182-001A.pdf

As long as the connection is hot with key on or off.

Electric Energy to Sound Energy.

First if you are talking about normal speaker (not subwoofer), I would not recomend doing that.

There is different ways to connect multiple speaker to one amplifier chanel.

You could wire it in serie or in parralel.

If your are talking about dual voice coil or more than 2 speaker, there is even more possibility to wire two or more speaker to one channel.

Now if you are talking about single voice coil subs, in a perfect situation, by wiring them in parralel, the wattage should not get lower but the impedence will be divided by the number of sub you hook up. You will need to make sure the amp can support a lower impedance.

To get all the audio voltage from a source to a target without loss you need voltage bridging, that is a relative low output impedance to a higher input impedance. Usualy the input impedance is at least ten times higher then the output impedance.
An input impedance is called also a load impedance or an external impedance.
An output impedance is called also a source impedance or an internal impedance.

Underneath the tuner knob, there are two small black buttons. One says HR and the other says MIN. Hold down the HR button and the clock will beep and you can change the hour but pushing the HR button and then change the MIN as well. When you're done, leave it alone and it will be set.

To set the clock on a 2002 Chevy cavalier with a factory CD player you must first have the key turned either in the accesories position of turned forward twice. Then press and hole hr and min for 3 seconds and release. Then to set the hour press and hold hour until it is set to the correct hour. Same goes for the minutes, just press until the correct minutes is shown. That is all. Simple ain't it.

how do u hook up scosche fai 3a to cadillac can i go threw factory amp

It depends on how the speakers are installed. Either the screws or bolts should be accessbile from the underside of the 6x9 speakers through the trunk of the vehicle. If you don't see screw heads under the speakers, then remove the net covering the speakers on top. This should expose the screw heads. To remove them are actually quite difficult. First remove the back seat cushion by pulling straight up. Exposed in the corners where the seat meets the door are 2 screws, one on each side, remove those and slide the whole cushion upwards. Then remove the couple black screw holding the back panel on. Then remove the center brake light cover and screws, then slide the whole back panel out. Then the speakers are each held in by 3 bolts. Remove them and replace with whatever you want.