Chevy Cavalier Z24

One is on the downpipe (right below the exhaust manifold) and the other is right after the Catalytic Converter, and they are expensive

The o2 sensors are really not that expensive. The one that is located by the header is only $20.00 at either advance auto, or napa. The other one by the catalytic converter is only $60 to $70. If you think that is expensive then your not looking in the right stores. That is cheap compared to other parts that is normally replaced after so long.

Replace your transmission pump or get a new transmission.

223 Lbs.-ft @ 1600 RPM

A plastic frame sits behind the radiator. Remove the bolt at the bottom and lift it up and out. Good luck getting past the air conditioning plumbing. Once it is out it is obvious how to unscrew the fan motor. Put it back by reversing what you did to get it out.

This is fuel injected.. No float exists. This question could also pertain to the level in the fuel tank, which uses a float.

WOW what is this site good for if u can't answer the questions being asked!!!

The answer is. YOU DON'T.

You will have to remove the hub. You should take it to the machine shop (many autoparts stores can or will direct you to a machine shop). They will press out the bad or broken studs and press in new ones for you. Would only cost less than $20 if you provide the studs from your auto parts store. You could drive them out with a good hammer and install new studs the same way. I don't recommend this if you have never done it before. It is better to take it to the machine shop and it is cheaper than purchasing a new hub.

A lot of $money$. Depending on the year.

As with any car, before you buy it you should call around auto parts stores. Check out the cost of replacing the items that wear out first..Brakes & cylinders,battery,fluids,tires,window motors,coils,ICM,alternator,water pump,HV/AC repair ... (things like that) The fuel mileage is WAY-up-to-par with 30-32mpg. I own 3..'99 '97 '97 all have 250,000+ ... Just keep good oil in it, and DON'T let it overheat.(aka aluminum head) If the Daytime driving lights go out...just leave them out...it's better that way....

Definition: Catalyst efficiency low- bank 1 Explaination: The oxygen sensors monitor the catalytic converters ability to store oxygen. Probable causes: 1. Catalytic converter defective (failure possibly due to #2, 3 or 4) 2. Engine misfire or poor running condition 3. Large vacuum leak 4. Engine oil leakage into exhaust- valve guide seals, piston rings

This is not an old truck...You'll have to use the same type engine. 1995-01 GM 2.4 (Quad 4 type)....... UNLESS you want to scratch your head alot and change it over to the 2.2L which would be cool. Get your hands on a doner car because you will need some parts from it! Might as well get one that has the eco-tec system. If your gonna' do it,,do it right! You would have to have the engine & trany w/mounts, the shifter w/cables, the cruise control items, throttle cable stuff, the computer, the engine wire harness, coolant & heater hoses,speedo cluster w/wire harness, exhaust system, CV axles and various other STUFF here and there. AND, dont foget the A/C system. IN OTHER WORDS HAUL IT TO THE CRUSHER AND TAKE THAT MONEY AND GET AWAY FROM GM!

i have an 89 and it ran like it was on 5 cylinders.replaced 1 of 3 coils and fixed it yours might be diffrent tiigghhtt ssqueeezeee.

The underbonnet wiring loom was revised on my1994 when the X20XEV engine was introduced.There were requirements for secondary air injection,crank pulse pick-up and starter/alternator wiring.You have probably fallen foul of this update.

probably because your dimmer switch is bad or a relay

650-700 rpm.. If any lower it tends to shake and vibrate to much.. and anything higher is unnecessary.

4...under the coil cover

Perhaps it was stolen... But, on the off-chance you mean the engine is misfiring, you need to approach it systematically. Rule out the following and the engine should smooth out: 1) Perform the scheduled maintenance required by your owner's manual. Replace spark plugs, air filter, ignition cables as required. Inspect the plugs as you take them out. You can tell a lot about your engine by reading your plugs. A good diagram is located at http://www.aa1car.com/library/sprkplg2.htm. All of the plugs will look similar and the color will be white to tan in a properly running engine. Ensure that the plugs are properly tightened. There are two styles of plugs...with and without gaskets. A good shop manual will give the tightening instructions. 2) Fuel--Check the fuel filler cap. A missing or damaged cap can cause the emissions system to improperly set the fuel mixture. Is the engine fuel-starved or running too rich? Is there water in the fuel? Is the fuel clean? Drain the fuel tank if you suspect contaminated fuel. Fuel starvation or flooding can occur from a malfunctioning electronic control module (ECM) or emission sensors. Take it to a mechanic and ask him to read the codes. Many parts stores will read the codes for free. Repair/replace the malfunctioning component. Mention the symptoms to the mechanic while he's reading the codes and ask if he wouldn't mind taking a listen...a trained ear can save you a lot of troubleshooting. If the ECM doesn't show codes, replace the fuel filter, ensure the fuel pump is pumping sufficiently (check fuel pressure on fuel injected engines or delivery volume for carburetted systems). 3) Ignition--If you see a 'light show' under your hood at night, you definitely need new ignition cables. Even if you don't see arcing and sparking, the cables degrade over time, especially when they are mis-routed close to hot engine parts. If you have over 80K miles on the engine, just replace them--ONE AT A TIME (so you don't scramble the firing order). As you unplug the cables, inspect the distributor cap for thin black cracks (carbon tracks). They will bleed the spark to ground and cause the affected cylinder to misfire. A cheap way to check the ignition is to clamp a clean spark plug to something metal that doesn't move when the engine starts. One at a time, plug each ignition cable to that plug and start the engine. You should see a nice, hot, blue spark jump the gap. CAUTION, you don't want your hands anywhere close because the spark can do you some serious harm, especially on the newer capacitive discharge systems. 4) Timing--Obtain a timing light and follow the instructions in a shop manual. Adjust as necessary. 5) Compression--Check the compression of each cylinder by screwing a pressure gage into each spark plug hole, one at a time, and starting the engine momentarily. The proper method is to perform both a dry and wet (squirt about a half ounce of oil into the cylinder) reading. A big difference (>20 psi) between wet and dry or between cylinders indicates problems that are going to send you to the shop. A difference between wet and dry means that the rings are worn. A difference between cylinders can indicate leaking valves or a cracked head or block or leaking head gasket. 6) Exhaust--Power loss will result if the exhaust is blocked. Inspect for crushed pipes or obstructions in the tailpipe (Do kids still put potatos in tailpipes?) A catalytic converter can become blocked for various reasons, too. There was a notice out a while back regarding double-walled exhaust pipes. The pipe will get hot and expand uniformly but when the car goes through water, the outer wall will rapidly contract and cause the hot inner wall to buckle and obstruct the exhaust flow. A trained eye might be able to diagnose this. It is very rare to see this today because nobody uses double-walled pipes anymore. Tell your mechanic what you have done. It will save you money because it will help the mechanic rule out problems and shorten the diagnosis time and it will also impress your mechanic that you are not an easy mark (not to say that all mechanics are crooked, mind you).

Hey Niki==It is possible but a very hard job requiring special jigs to hold the engine and a lift is nice. I wouldn't try it if I were you. You can get a shop manual on your car from the parts store if you care to see what all is required. GoodluckJoe

The 1997 and up cavalier or just about all gm cars have whats called an obd2 system. That's the engine controll computer type and name. This wireing setup sucks. But any way the top speel limiter is built in and its really just a fuel pump shut off. you could just redo your hole fuel system but its just alot easier to take your car to your local Chevy dealer ship and pay them to re conform you system and remove the rev limiter and fuel pump shut off system. but just so you know this onlyl adds like 10mph to you over all top speed. If you want to go faster then youll have to do some slight mods like an exhaust and cold air.

Usually about $40-50

the motor if its over 200 thousand miles use 20/50 motor oil

Trouble code P1887 means:TCC release switch circuit

The (radiator) coolant cooling fan is activated by the coolant temp sensor which tells the computer to turn it on. There is also a cooling fan fuse and a cooling fan relay. Check the fan by connecting it straight to the battery,it must turn very fast and not just half fast. To check the relay (without getting it complicated) just swap it with the one next to it on the fuse box under the hood, and of course check the fuses. The fan should also operate when the A/C is turned on.

It rounds out to 6.5hp!

I just had my spark plugs replaced today and there are no wires just 4 plastic housing type cartridges that fits over the plugs. The 4 housings had to be replaced for $12 apiece(4 of them

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The above applies to the 2.3 and 2.4 liter engines. The more common 2.2L engine does not use the coil-over-plug design and in fact does have spark plug wires. Replacing them is not easy because the coil pack is on the back side of the engine facing the firewall and there is very little room to get an arm in there. Make sure the engine is cool before starting as you will be pressing your skin directly against the engine. You will have to squeeze your arm down behind the engine, next to the power steering pump. You can't see what you're doing, you'll have to go on feel alone. Replace just one wire at a time so you don't accidentally replace them in a crossed/wrong pattern. It's not as easy as it is on a lot of vehicles due to the location of the coil pack but it can be done without lifting the vehicle or removing any other components. Good luck.

The refrigerant 134 loaded through the LOW PRESSURE side of the vehicle a/c system, but I will say if you are not knowledgeable, nor equipped on refrigerants-LEAVE IT TO A PRO--you could get hurt or cause damage