Chevy G20

Not necessarily. You may have a loose connection or bad ground.

You really need to hit the local parts store and get a diagram. It is fairly simple if you have a serpentine belt.

5.7= 350 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx The 8th digit of the VIN code denotes the engine size.

It's in the gas tank. you'll need a pro unless your a good monkey.

It's a bear to get to all the bolts on the back side of the block. Remove the decorative cover on the top of the engine and the block looks pretty much like any other. Remove the valve cover, clean it and the head surface off well, replace gasket, reassemble, re-torque the cover bolts in the proper order (and I don't know what that is off the top of my head). Lots of mechanics use a better sealant than what comes in the gasket kit. I gladly pay a mechanic to bust his knuckles doing such a job. You probably want to replace the front gasket at the same time, and inspect both the heads and cams for damage. If you are replacing the gasket because it appears to be leaking, it makes some sense to suspect additional damage. SOme blow-by is expected, your engine block will not remain spotless.

Not hard under the dash remove the pannel there will be 4 bolts holding it up on the dash and under the carpet on the floor will be 4-5 bolts holding the plate down then under the hood losen the bold holding it to the steering box unhook all wires and sit in the seat and pull it straight out.

Personally I do not know about a G20 1990 Chevy Van but the basics of heating are, the thermostat, heater control valve, heater fan and heater matrix. Does the van overheat at all, engine wise? Could be possible the system just needs a flush out. When you turn the heating dial (presuming it is a dial) you should hear a clunk which normally indicates the heater control valve switching over. Other than that, I've said all I can. Hope to be of some help, hope you get it sorted out.

First, adjust the hours. Then, adjust the minutes

motor on bed stays runing

check the piston rings but that a typical thing any 350 dose check the piston rings but that a typical thing any 350 dose

I would suspect that the heater valve is not working. Locate the in line valve switch on the hot water supply line that usually sits just behind the radiator. Have someone move the cold to hot slide switch inside at the controls and see if the valve moves "opens". If not, the vacuum line that goes to it may have come off. You can manually open the valve too. I believe you have air trapped in the system. Try this: Elevate the front of the van such as on car ramps so that the radiator is sky high over the rest of the vehicle. Remove the rad cap, run the engine with cap off for 30 minutes and continue adding coolant as the air purges. This may take a while but it will work.Because this vehicle is somewhat high profile in the relation of heater core to rad cap this is necessary. I hope this helps you. Mark

As far as I know all weatherstripping is put on with adhesive that is usually already on the new stuff, just make sure that you remove all of the old stuff and clean the surface thoroughly before putting tne new on.

The 1990 G20 Chevrolet Van fuel relay switch is located on the front of the fuel tank. The relay switch is next to the fuel pump.

The panner bar under the front has too much stress on it and is making your front end jerk from side to side real fast which is causing a shake . You need a drop down bracket for the bar that goes from your fram to your axle on your front suspension ( panner bar ) You can use the one for a 3 " lift it wont hurt anything , just make sure you get your front end aligned after you install it . If you have not had your front end aligned after the lift you need too anyways .

under driver seat

Try to see if distributer cap is clean. Also if your Van does not run properly after starting it is probably a problem with one of the injectors.

Bad performance; pingging noise in motor are symptoms of bad gas in a vehicle.

On full tank regular with 4.3 V6 over 300 miles. 325-highway

I pegged it as a shorting or bad switch assembly or wiring harness behind the pull switch. mine does the same thing and is not related to high beams. I was also told today it may be the alternator. Will let you know this week. ~Ky G

Hello Ky G. I appreciate your response. Unfortunately, I posted the question a while ago and shortly after I posted the question - I discovered the problem by accident. Since this is my daily driver, I couldn't just let it sit, so I began tinkering with it. It was a bad DIMMER SWITCH - that goes from low beams to high beams (back and forth). Even though the lever is in the upper part of the steering column, the switch is located in the lower portion of the steering column. Mine had a short, so when you switched it to low beam, it wouldn't seat correctly to activate the circuit. I bought a new one direct from a Chevy dealership - think I paid like $30 dollars. It's kind of a pain to put in though. You might check the same thing on yours. Hope that helps. Thanks for responding! Chad

They usually have a TH350 or 400 Transmission Very common to come by

A bad thermostat or a bad clucth on the fan. Could be timing but not likely.

35 gallons

I'm just guessing here, but perhaps the brake booster is leaking. It uses engine vacuum to provide braking assistance. It's the large canister thing, usually on the firewall, behind the master cylinder. If it is indeed your brake booster leaking vacuum, you may also notice a change in your idle speed or may experience rough idle. Your engine's computer adjusts your engine's idle according to vacuum. If vacuum is lost anywhere on your engine, the computer may adjust idle inacurately. Whooshing brake sound + changed idle may be diagnostic of a leaking brake booster, although idle won't always change.

you dont only a certified shop can handle R12