Clutches and Flywheels

Schigerd is on the major companies that specialize in producing clutch cables. There are also various companies mostly from Chine that specialize in producing clutch cables.

If a pressure type brake fluid dispenser is available attach it to the top of the master cylinder. Other wise fill the master cylinder, start with the wheel cylinder that is furthermost from the master, and bleed until fluid comes out clean and free from bubbles. make sure to replenish the the master cylinder as needed. then proceed to the next farther wheel cylinder and repeat with the rest of the wheel cylinders. top off the master cylinder. Test with the engine off then with the engine running before driving.

I want to tell you I am no certified machanic but I am a backyard mechanic. The first thing is to un hook the drive shaft,undo the clutch cable. Then bell housing then transmission mounts. Slide transmission out Pull out the disc the clutch plate and the throw out bearing. Get A pilot shaft when putting in the throw out bearing. To install reverse the procedure.

disconnect drive shaft at differential ...mark with chalk so it goes back the samedisconnect the intermediate drive shaft bearing supportslide out the drive shaft ...the yoke is splined and will pull out with the shaftdisconnect speed cable, two switches ...take off the shift boot then three screws then the stick shift will lift out...do it slowly there may be a spring or a shim or washerdisconnect the slave clutch cylinder ...2 boltsdisconnect the transmission support beam ...6 bolts nuts you must remove slide holders and spring holding the emergency cablesdisconnect all bell housing except a couple on the bottomYou have to remove an exhaust supportput a hydralic jack under the xmission to the front of the oil drain (I drained the xmission oil because I didn't know if it would run out the extension housing)Put a little tension on the jack (my engine did not need any support)remove the final bolts and slide the xmission backBallance it on the hydralic jack (it really can't fall it will lean against the floor tunnell)lower it slowly...down by the front since the extenxsion housing is on top of the corss member (it helps balance)move the bell housing under the fly wheel stuff and help the extenxion housing downremove the 6 pressure plate bolts ...don't drop the pressure plate and the disk

Go to Advance Auto and for $125 you get a pilot bearing, pressure plate clutch disk, release bearing, plastic alingment tool

I left the pilot bearing in ...it was still goodReplace the release bearing Replace the disk and pressure plate using the alingment tool 30 ftlbs for 6 bolts

if you need to replace the pilot bearing use a slide hammer if you have one or fill the hole with greese...get a bolt that just fits thru the pilot bearing hit it with a hammer and greese flys every where and maybe the release bearing came out.

replace everything....the hydralic clutch is self adjusting

It took me 5 hours to get it all apart And about the same to put it together...maybe 7 hours

Good Luck...its a perfect DIY job

well, if you know for sure something is mechanically wrong, not like lack of fluid, then you want to start by taking the half-shafts out; those are the round driveshafts that have rubber boots on either end, then loosen the transmission mounts. next take off the air box and remove the battery, these are in the way for the next step- loosen off and remove all the fasteners that hold the transmission case to the engine. remove the transmission, then inspect and replace any broken, worn or old parts replace the transmission, airbox and battery. this would probably take a mechanic somewhere in the range of 5 hrs. it took me about 7 hrs with a break.

it transmits the action from a master cylinder

On some cars it could, depends on code.

the slave cylinder is either located just above the starter or its an internel one part of the throwout bearing.

I was asking the same thing and found a couple of sites that may be useful:

The links are posted below.

have a look at the switch that's on the bike stand (if it has one) bikes with them fitted will cut out instantly when you engage the gear when the stand is down to avoid crashing but sometimes the switch gets stuck from all the mud thrown up at it so check here 1st...

at the caliper and drums derrr! at the caliper and drums derrr! no its under the car where the clutch line goes into the trani at. they should be a 8mm nippple sticking out

You may need to replace your master and slave cylinders for the clutch. Try pumping the clutch while the truck is running while it is in neutral. if its easy it shift after doing that than that's probably your problem

yes

A reverse clutch setup is when the clutch assembly is normally in the "release" or "free" mode when at rest, as opposed to the usual "normally-engaged" arrangement. In other words, the spring is pushing to dis-engage the clutch and pedal pressure is required to connect the engine to the rest of the drive train. In a normal automotive clutch system, the driver has to push in the pedal to release the clutch, then let go of the pedal to engage it.

first things first go and get a "one man brake bleed kit" usualy a tube with a one way valve on the end.

now get under the car with with your new clutch slave.

undo the flange nut on the tube going to the cylinder and pull it off. have a plug of some sort ready to block it best you can

undo the bolt/bolts retaining the cylinder to the bell housing.

throw the old cylinder away. and bolt the new one onto the bell housing. making sure the pin sits snugly in the lever. connect the flange nut back on.

connect the "bleed kit" the bleed valve firmly (the little nipple thing with the 10mm nut) and then loosen the valve slightly.

in the engine bay take the lid off the clutch fluid reservoir and fill it up

the depress the clutch pedal a few times while looking under the car to see if the flange bolt is leaking on the new cylinder. continue to depress the pedal a few time making sure you keep topping up the fluid in the reservoir (if it gets too low you start sucking air into the lines)

now you just keep doing this until the bleed line has no bubbles in it.

tighten the valve back up and remove the bleed line.

check the reservoir is at the correct level and that the clutch travel is smooth and firm. if it isn't you still have air in the line so you will need to continue to bleed the air out by connecting the kit back up loosening the valve and pressing the pedal till no air is in the line and tightening the valve back up

never reuse old clutch or brake fluid

and never over tighten the valve

there are many causes for this. You should consult a ASE trained technician.

take your left wheel off jack the lft side of the car up as well. get a floor jack and jack up your tranny about 2inches unbolt the axle. unbolt the transmission unbolt pressure plate and clutch put new in then bolt everything back up that's the overview of it

synchro plates went out

If the revs decrease as the speed decreases (in 3rd & uphill) then its not slipping, you don't need a new clutch, but if you are in any gear and the revs are increasing while the speed is decreasing, then the clutch is slipping.

Cars, trucks, or any vehicle that has a stick shift (as opposed to an automatic) have clutch pedals. Many vehicles have been and are available with either shift method, depending on what the owner likes best.

For this you don't have to unhook the battery! Step 1: jack up the left side of the car. Crawl under, find the clutch lever and remove the clutch cable adjusting nut. Step 2: open the hood and unhook the accelerator cable. Step 3: remove the two bolts holding the pedal cluster in, and extract the pedal cluster from the car. You will find one of two things: that the clevis on the end of the clutch cable wore through (it's made of pot metal, so it happens), or that the hook on the end of the clutch pedal wore through. The odds of either happening are about equal. If it's the pedal hook, stop what you're doing. Take the pedal cluster away from the car. The hook is pushed into a tube and secured with one small bolt. Remove the bolt, stick a metal rod of some sort on the end of the hook rod that's shoved into the tube, and whack it with a hammer until it comes out. Push a new hook into the tube, align the hole in the tube with the hole in the hook, and install the bolt. Then check the end of the cable just to make sure. If the cable is broken, grab it and pull it out. Take the new cable out of the bag. Dunk it in Rustoleum paint, then hang it up to dry. When it does, thread it into the tube the old one came from, put the clevis on the clutch pedal hook, and reinstall the pedal cluster. Step 4: Crawl back under the car. Thread the end of the cable through the clutch lever, and get the adjusting nut (1966s didn't have wing nuts, but I'd get one when I bought the new cable--they make adjusting the clutch SO nice...) started on the cable. Step 5: Have someone go into the car with a ruler. Press the clutch pedal in about half an inch. When it's down, you screw the adjuster nut down until it touches the clutch lever. Step 6: let the car back down and hook the accelerator cable back up. You're done.

slave cylinder

fd

clutch slave cylinder.

Try relay block against firewall passenger side (have to remove plastic cover)

Concentric slave cylinder mounting-1996-99 vehicles equipped with the New Venture Gear transmission.Its mounted in your transmission,but the bleeder screw is assible because theres a hole in transmission,where bleeder is,just put wrench on and loosen,have someone one push clutch pedal to floor and hold,then open valve,do this till air is gone,theres another hole next to hole where bleeder screw is,a metal tube comes out of that one,its the clutch fluid line,good luck.