Clutches and Flywheels

The clutch is not adjustable. The hydraulic master/slave cylinder assembly self compensates for wear. You have a problem with the clutch of master/slave.

To disconnect the clutch fluid hydraulic line from the master, drive out the roll pin holding the hydraulic tube to the master cylinder with a 7/64" punch. Have rags ready, as some fluid will be lost as line is removed.

If you don't use a flywheel, the engine will not turn the transmission, therefore the car will not move and the engine will just sit and idle and probably roll away because there is nothing to lock the transmission with.

The process is reasonably simple. The only equipment needed it simple jacking equipment, basic mechanics tools (spanners and sockets etc) and one specialist tool. The specialist tool is a universal clutch alignment tool (About £10 form any motor spares shop). It's better to have two people for moral support and someone to make the brews

First remove passenger side wheel (for RHD cars). Take out bolts attaching the swing arm to the sub-frame. This will allow you to remove the drive shaft from the gear box.

Now start on the Top. Remove the battery and battery tray. Remove clutch slave cylinder, and pop off the reverse gear linkage. Loosen the forward gear linkage and cable tie everything out of the way.

Removing the bell housing. Support the gear box with a jack. Remove bolts connecting the G-Box to the sub-frame. Remove all bolts around the bell housing including the nut at the back and three small ones holding the dust cover on at the back.

Slide out bell housing (relasing the clip on the drive shaft) 2 people will be needed for this, and replace clutch and bearing (The entire assembly should be replaced - usually about £45 for all three parts).

Reverse the process to re-fit the components. Once everything back in, make sure you have a full range of movement in the gear stick to allow you to select all gears.

How long after you had it fixed

The clutch fluid may be low. While facing the car, look for a reservoir in the upper right portion of the engine bay. Check the fluid level. If it is low, add DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid, then pull the clutch pedal up and try to press back down. If it falls to floor again, repeat the same process two or three times. If the clutch fluid reservoir is completely empty, you WILL need to bleed the clutch after adding fluid.

Do not atempet at home, best thing to do is to go and get a used one from the recing yard

you take it to an experienced mechanic...

if it is stock, it is self ajusting

Either the linkage between the pedal and the throw-out bearing is damaged or the clutch fiber disc is worn and needs replaced. The worn clutch is most likely. Consult a mechanic, this is not a shadetree operation. The clutch allows the spinning crankshaft of the engine to be "interrupted" before it get to the transmission. Your engine and transmission are both turning when the car is running and in neutral, the clutch basically stops the the transmission from receiving power and this allows you to choose a gear, letting out the clutch allows power back to the trans, and this allows the power to get to the wheels through the chosen gear.

update: i put the clutch in and put it into gear n let the clutch out and it feels like i wont disengage all the way shifting is fine, i have played with the adjustment and still nothing, jus more or less freeplay in the pedal. i took off the cables so there would be no pedal and same thing i put the brake on and put it in gear and the car does not stall just a low idle i let off the brake and it goes just when i hit the gas there is really no response it just feels like the clutch is not disengaging

you just need to hone it out and replace parts with rebuild kit.

The bleeder is located at the clutch arm on the bell housing. There is a fluid line going from the master cylinder to the clutch bleeder. This metal line has flexible hoses at either end. Follow this line down to the front of the engine just about in the middle and you'll find the bleeder valve.

because you didn't adjust the pressure plate

yea that's not good ur better off putting in more then putting in less in ur case its a lot less

have someone pump clutch pedal about 3 times and hold to floor,then go to your clutch slave cylinder,its bolted on the side of transmission,with rubber cover,and open bleeder valve ,u might wanna get aclear hose that fits the bleeder valve and put other end in glass container so u can see air coming out,then bleed your clutch damper ,which is located on left side firewall.

Under the dashboard implies a column shift. This would mean a mechanical linkage. If so there is a connection on the steering column just outside the firewall in the engine compartment, a rod down to the frame and another rod to the transmission. At any one of these points there is a hard plastic or brass bushing. The rod may have come out of the bushing, the bushing worn or missing. The entire length of the shift rod should be visible and worn or broken point found.

You have no clutch left. May of worn to the point it's not grabing or the clutch face may have blown off all at once. If you dump the clutch to often it can go all at once.

Some vehicles require "shims" to be installed when a starter is replaced so the Bendix drive will engage the pressure plate teeth. If the starter is too far away from the teeth on the pressure plate, the vehicle will fail to turn over.

you need to remove the transmission then unbolt the clutch from the flywheel.

Hi, I do know that the clutch master servo draws off brake fluid from the brake master cylinder and may require a certified mechanic to replace or rebuild the servo depending on it's condition and cause.

No, it will not wear the clutch faster That is a VERY unsafe driving practice. By putting the car's transmission into neutral, while going down a hill, you are now relying 100 percent on the car's brakes to slow and stop the car. This is very dangerous. The much safer way to do this is..........downshift to second gear and use the engine and the gears to slow down, while "covering the brake pedal" with your left foot, in case you need to stop rapidly. With a manual transmission, when you put it in neutral, you have dis-connected the engine from the drive wheels. The clutch pedal and the clutch plate are the parts that allow you to change gears without grinding them. Excessive clutch plate wear comes from "riding the clutch pedal" with your left foot, while driving along. Doing that partially engages the clutch plate, and makes it wear out rapidly. You should take your left foot completely OFF the clutch pedal when NOT shifting gears, and place it on the floor, away from the pedal.

I know nothing about your vehicle, but here's what I can tell you... If you need "clutch fluid" you have one of two things on your hand. Someone is either pulling your chain or you have a hydraulic throwout bearing. A throwout bearing is what makes a clutch do it's job. I know that some hydraulic clutches use the same fluid reservoir as the brakes do so, checking your brake fluid might be one solution. The other, your clutch has it's own reservoir which should be right around close to the brake fluid reservoir. I think it uses the same fluid like my ford Bronco does. I would ask your local auto parts store first just to make sure. Adding the wrong fluid could cost you dearly. P.S. I prefer Advance Auto in my hometown. They will have no problem going outside to help point out their advice. Their aftermarket selection of inventory is above average and the few problems that I have had with them, they were always willing to accomodate my returns. They price match local competitors. They can perform some diagnostics checks for you for free. They can also test some of the electrical components from your car for you if you think one might be faulty. Good luck and Good Day!

sounds like a fuel issue.