Clutches and Flywheels

Absolutely. You drop the engine, unbolt the old clutch, bolt in the new one...put the engine back in the car and adjust the clutch pedal. The details are a little more than that, but on a Bug you should be able to do it in a day if you've never done one before. If you have done one before, a quiet Saturday morning will more than cover it.

You do not "lube" a centrifugal clutch.

http://www.snowmobileforum.com/engine-drivetrain/26360-generic-clutch-cleaning-advise.html

fill your clutch master cylinder with dot 3 brake fluid, keep an eye on it while u are bleeding itand dont let it empty out and get air in lines, have some one pump clutch pedal about 3 times and hold it to floor,go to the clutch slave cylinder ,its bolted on to the side of the transmission with arubber boot connected to it, open bleeder valve, make sure u have a clear hose connected at end of bleeder screw and have hose in aclear glass so u can see air come out. bleed the slave cylinder till no air comesout ,next u need tobleedthe clutch damper, its on the left side ofthe fire wall,make sure your slave cylinder is not leaking ,if it is u need anew one about 18.00.

could be your clutch slave. mine was $65 and i put it in myself it was hard to bleed myself i recommend an assistant to help you with that part. it just broke in the driveway no signs of failure prior. have you tried lifting your foot?

Yes, Very Very common. Generally it's worse when cold, and goes away once everything has warmed up.

However if you ask Vauxhall they will say "nothing wrong with them" but ask a dealer, and if they are off the record, "very common, almost all do it to some degree."

A biting point is the point at which the clutch engages in a car when the pedal is released.

On the majority of cars and trucks it is located under the hood, on the firewall, drivers side. On some older vehicles it was located under the drivers

floorboard.

Remove the air cleaner outlet duct....

Remove the drive belt.

Disconnect the A/C compressor clutch coil electrical connector.

Disconnect the accelerator control cable from the throttle bracket.

Remove the 4 compressor mounting bolts.

Lift the compressor slightly up and support the lower portion.

Using the correct tools first remove the center nut holding on the hub.

Save any shims that will come out.

Use the a/c hub remover and remove the hub.

Using snap ring pliers remove the snap ring and then attach a three-jaw puller to the clutch and remove it.

Remove the next snap ring and remove the coil.

Reverse to install and remember the shims, adjust as needed for about a 35 thousands air gap.......

4 bolts to the master and 2 bolts to the column now you also have to unhook the brake peddle and the clutch

the part of the transmission where the fluid goes is on the drivers side part of the transmission. its right above the transmission temperature sensor and its the biggest bolt head right above the transmission temp sensor

That is usually caused by a bad seat switch or a bad connection at the switch. It is a safety feature that will not allow the mower to drive or blades to turn if no one is on the seat.

sounds like it might be a bad starter causing the damage. the only way to know for sure is to have someone who you know is good with vehicles look at it

If you just want to slow down a bit you can use the brake without applying the clutch. But if you want to stop you will need to disengage the clutch at some point during braking. In fact, while slowing down on a motorcycle, some riders prefer to shift down through all the gears while slowing down, whether just a little, or a lot (i.e. to a full stop). There is some debate as to which is the preferred technique.

Personally, I prefer to "gear down" so that a) I always have the bike in gear, and b) it's in the appropriate gear for the speed I'm traveling. This way, in the event that I have to accelerate again prior to coming to a stop (for instance, when that red light you're stopping for turns green!) you will always be able to accelerate smoothly without a frantic search up or down for the correct gear.

A secondary benefit of this method is that it saves wear and tear on the brakes. A secondary DETRIMENT of this method is that your brake light doesn't come on to show those following that you are, in fact, slowing down. (For this reason, I always make sure to apply either the front or rear brake gently, just to give the added visual evidence that I am slowing.) Sorry about the long-winded answer, but, as with most motorcycle activity, it's an art and a science......with a little bit of politics thrown in on the side.

== At a low RPM it is recommended to use the clutch but at 3rd gear it is alright to shift UP to 4th without pulling the clutch.

First you remove the battery, air filter, distributor cap and rotor, disconect shift cables, clutch cable, and the three plugs going into the transmition, remove wheels and axles, support engine and transmition w/ jacks, remove exhaust, transmition mounts, crossmember, rear engine/transmition mount, remove the transmition, then theres your clutch and replace it you'll need a tourqe wrench i think its 13lbs for the clutch, greese the spines and tranny then throw it all back together again, this requires that ALOT OF CURSE WORDS TO BE USED. Buy a servise manual like haynes our some thing like that its a pain but I've done it twice in six months to a 92 and a 91 all modles are basicly the same just double check parts with a parts dealer.

There is not an adjustment on a flywheel. Your problem will most likely be the starter.

Go to the transmission and check slave cylinder for leaks,also check clutch master cylinder,then go look by your clutch pedal to see if its leaking there,these are your places that it could be leaking,is your fluid level low,if not ,then you may need a new clutch kit.

Replace belt self tensioner, if applicable.

Adjust belt tension.

Replace belt.

Have ac pressures checked.

AC compressor may be failing.

To remove the crankshaft drive pulley, you'll need to know which direction the pulley turns when the engine is running. The bolt should turn the opposite direction. Know if it is reverse threaded or not before attempting to remove it. You should use an impact wrench. If it's air powered, you'll need one that is rated at about 800 psi and have it hooked to a tank that puts out at LEAST 120 psi. If you don't have one, a chain wrench on the pulley and a breaker bar on the bolt, both being pulled in opposite directions, may get it. Another "trick" (and I don't know if I would try this personally) is to put a breaker bar on the bolt. Use whatever you need to extend it, like putting a pipe on the handle to make it longer. Rest the end of the extended handle (if it needs extended) on the frame of the vehicle. Then try to start the engine using the starter. Just hit it for a second. The torque from the starter combined with the breaker bar on the bolt being jammed against the frame may be enough to snap it loose. However, you might also break a tooth on your fly wheel I would think. But I know this has worked for people in the past.

Added note: On some vehicles, VWs come to mind, there will be three or four small bolts instead of one large center bold. On most vehicles with the large center bolt, once that bolt is removed you will have to pull very hard on the pulley and wiggle it to remove it. Many vehicles will require use of an inexpensive puller which bolts to the pulley to remove it, and many Chrysler cars require the use of a (fairly expensive) hardened steel damper puller to safely remove the pulley.

I advise against using either a chain wrench or a jav puller on most crank pulleys as these can cause damage to the pulley causing either shortened belt life or excessive engine vibration and premature engine failure unless a new pulley is installed.

they had a recall on all v6 clutches on the gt tib, so if its still under warrenty take it to the dealership, they should replace it for free, if your under the warrenty

Its simple. Get your car up on ramps and look for an electrical wiring harness that goes into the tranny. Usually it is a two or three wire connector. Simply disconnect it and that should solve your shift problem "if" that "IS" the problem. In other words if your TCC is bad than disconnecting it will make your tranny operate without lock up. At worst you will lose 1 MPG.

Time and practice. I find you get a better feel for the clutch if you keep your heel on the floor and use it as a pivot point, and keep the radio off while practicing so that you can hear the engine. Just apply enough accelerator to get the car moving, after that shift at a decent rpm like about 2500-3000. Many vehicles now have a shift indicator light, use it while you practice.

I assume that we are talking about marine transmissions in which case both types of clutches will be operated "wet". The chief problem with the cone clutch is that when it fails the parts are going to be "captive" and very costly. Disc clutches however can have the friction plates reconditioned by having new material bonded on just like motorcycle clutches. Some Italian fishing boat engines in the 7 to 20 HP range had engines with a dry car type clutch between the engine and gearbox. This avoided wear on the gearbox clutches. For some reason this design has left the marketplace.

yes it does!.like all parts of a car, it depends on your driving style as well as manufacturer recomendation...for example if you tend to dump your clutch often then you clutch will need to be replaced frequently...you can tell when to replace your clutch by the feel of it when driving, if it tends to slip often or it is hard to engage a gear without depressing your clutch pedal several times, its high time to replace your clutch...when driving dont make it a habit to 'ride the clutch' ie:using your clutch when going down hill to disengage your gear without leaving the gear in neutral..