Clutches and Flywheels

You may find that it's easier to liltghy rev the engine just "blip" the throttle, then let out on the clutch as the engine RPM is falling back to idle .this is MUCH easier on your clutch disc, promoting a smoother engagement.It may be too, that the first car you drove had a small engine and would stall if you didn't feed it some throttle, whereas your father's car may have had a more favorable power to weight ratio and been able to leave a stop from an idle.

Its plates that disingage the transmission from the motor so you can shift it

put gum on it

sounds like the clutch cylander is leaking.u need to either replace or rebuild the cylander then bleed the clutch for proper operation

Yes. The fan fails in the early model years as parts inside disolve and the valve becomes clogged. This creates a lock-up condition and it roars like crazy. It must be replaced and takes about 2 hours. Consult a manual for instructions or join our forum for detailed instructions online.

I messed that up, I wanted to say I am in the middle of replacing my clutch master cylnder on my 1989 ford ranger 2.9 5 spd , The bottom hose seems to be a hard plastic with two flared ends that seem inseperable from the tranny and master clyn. I ended up breaking the hose off of the tranny but can not for th elife of me figure out how to get the old section off or flare it again so it will fit. Also I can't find a bleeder for it either ... thank you ...

It shares the reservoir with the brakes so it will be brake fluid to DOT 4 or DOT 5. If you don't have the owner's handbook contact Ford for the original type used. Be very specific about asking the DOT number. DOT 4 and DOT 5 do not mix.

Clutch throw out bearing bad.

First open bleeder screw on slave cylinder and drain fliud.Your slave cylinder is bolted on to your transmission with 2 bolts,take bolts out and remove fluid line from slave cylinder.Screw fluid line to new slave cylinder and set end of slave cylinder into fork position ,then screw 2 bolts in and fill clutch master cylinder with dot 3 brake fluid and pump clutch pedal a few times and hold to floor and open bleeder screw to let air out ,do this until all air is gone,dont let clutch master cylinder fluid get low while doing this,you might want to get a clear hose and attach to bleeder screw and other end in glass jar with brake fluid so you can see air coming out.

There is a slave cylinder on the transmission. Bleed it as you would the brakes. One man method. Get a container, cup, bottle,and put enough brake fluid in it to cover the end of a hose. open the bleeder screw and place the hose over it. Vacumn hose that fits and then just pump the clutch pedel. Slowly 3-4 pumps should do it, TIghten bleeder screw and you are done.

The same as it mean everywhere else - that depressing the clutch pedal pressurizes a hydrualic fluid, and that pressure is then used to operate the actual clutch mechanism in the transmission.

if there is an inspection plate, it will be on the very bottom of the bell housing most auto transmissions do not have inspection plate some vehicles the only way to inspect flywheel is to remove starter and look thru opening there other than that, the transmission needs to be removed to check

You must remove the battery, battery tray, upper intercooler pipe, clutch slave cylinder, transmission cables and clear all the wires from the top of the transmission. remove the cross bars, then the front to back sub assembly bar. Remove the wheels, and axle nuts, drain the transmission and remove the axles. remove the lower under-tray, then the steering rack/lower suspension arm assembly unbolt the transfer case, slide it to the side and rest on a jack-stand. support the engine and remove the transmission mounts. unbolt the transmission from the engine and lower the transmission. R&R the clutch, resurface the flywheel, and install everything. The job is a 4-15 hour job depending on tools and experience.

Having sold and installed many clutches, I have learned not to use an rebuilt or remanufactured clutch. I would only use a NEW aftermarket or original equipment clutch regardless of brand name. Toyota buys their component parts from vendors so often the aftermarket item is the exact same clutch you would buy if you got it right from Toyota. I hope this helps a little. Mark

dot 3 brakefluid is what a 1996 Chevy camaro takes in the hydrolic clutch fluid resivor

You can't have it both ways. If it's using fluid, then it is leaking out. If you are not seeing any on the ground or at the slave cylinder have you considered that it may be leaking from the back of the master cylinder and running inside of the car. You may not have noticed because it is going between the firewall and the carpet.

In all honesty, it sounds like your car needs a clutch replacement. If the car has high miles or has been driven hard, replace the clutch.

You don't give year model but I will try 84 to 86 are 58ft. lbs and87 to 94 are 65ft lbs.

They are both internally balanced, so it should work fine.

First, the clutch won't engage if the refrigerant level is low. Start there. Next, check the sensor at the receiver/dryer.

take off the side cover on the foot brake side then unbolt the 5 bolts on the clutch basket then you`ll see a nut in the middle take that off .pull the clutches out one by one and remember how they came out and replace how they came out last one out will be the first one in . the put the clutch basket lid back on make sure it goes all the way down , put the 5 bolts and springs back on do not over tighten you will break them off , then take you fingers where the nut was grab the stud that sticks out turn it until it just tightens against the cover put the nut back on replace the cover . check the clutch lever free play just make sure just before you feel the clutch start to engage you should be able to stick a nickel between the lever and the part that bolts to the handle bars

The clutch will not engage ,you will not be able to shift./// the clutch will not (disengage ) making it almost impossible to shift gears

First thing you need to do is, pull the front wheels off. Then you will need to remove the axals out of the transmission. Then you can pull the tranny and get to your clutch.

Lamborghini

you can go to Autozone and use the loaner tool, but you can do it the cheap way. Get some vise-grips and clamp on the wheel behind the nut, making sure to secure it in away that it does not rotate. Then get a pipewrench and secure it to the bolt. With a hammer, hit the handle of the pipewrench a few times, it will come loose. Remember, to hit it counter-clock wise, it has reverse threading.

You don't.