Clutches and Flywheels

Transmission does not have a reservoitClutch if hydraulic has a reservoir

Check the spark plugs and starter.

1) Either your cable is frayed inside the cable sheath. (inexpensive, oil the new cable and sheath on replacement)

2)Or the clutch "push-rod" is wearing through the plate and in a short while will fail and need a new clutch. (expensive)

3)Or the little lever on the last housing has slipped on its splined shaft and you need a new one (inexpensive)

I'm having a friend do my clutch its 200 for the clutch 89 to resurface the. Fly wheel and 350 for labor

Yes, mine has just popped and therefore have found this out myself.

This refers to the second oxygen sensor on Bank 1. Bank 1 is the same side of the engine that cylinder 1 is on, the very front cylinder on the drivers side. It could need to be replaced, or there could be a short to voltage on the O2 signal circuit, or it could also be that the connector has been corroded, and needs to just be cleaned. I believe this code is the same for all vehicles, not just Toyotas.

you don't adjust it. It is a Hydraulic clutch unit. you have to bleed it. There is a 7/16" bleeder valve on the transmission.

clay

Colorado

Our Citroen C1 (June 2007) developed a slipping clutch after only 35000 miles - most of which has been done on motorways, not around town.

Having done some research on the Internet, I suspected that this might be a design or manufacturing fault - common to Toyota Aygos and Peugeot 107s as they share the same engine.

I took the car into the Citroen garage this week, and told them that I expected the clutch to be replaced under warranty, but they said that this was unlikely as the clutch is only guaranteed for 12000 miles (not the normal 60000/3 year guarantee).

I advised them that if the clutch could not be replaced under warranty, I would take this to Trading Standards, as I didn't believe that 35000 miles on one clutch demonstrates "merchantable quality".

In the event, the cost of clutch replacement (approx £670) was covered by Citroen and the dealership between them.

It's a real shame as aside from the clutch problem, we are very happy with the car.

I have the same problem with a 91 Mazda 323 1600. After putting a new clutch in, the pedal had to go to the floor to engage the clutch. Sometimes the pedal sticks on the floor, but the car keeps going forward. The problem is the throw-out lever at the clutch. This is the lever sticking out of the gearbox/clutch housing on the engine. This throwout lever requires a pre-setting or pre-loading if you like, so that the lever movement caused by the slave cylinder pushes and disengages the clutch by continuing the preload pressure. This fault is caused by not making a note of the preload adjustment on the throw-out lever when fitting a new clutch.You should be able to take the end housing off the engine, although you may have to undo the engine mounting on that side and jack the engine up slightly. Then peek inside, find the adjustment mechanism and adjust as necessary. A clue that this is the problem, will be if you can grab the clutch lever where it meets the slave cylinder and wiggle it up and down. In short, setting the preload on the throw-out lever will fix this problem.

First make sure your car is off. Then climb under and and locate the clutch pedal assembly. Find the clutch bracket with a keyhole cut out on the top of it. You need to access the bolt on the underside of this bracket. Remove this and now you can replace the part.

You can adjust the clutch pedal by going under the vehicle and noting if you have a mechanical or a hydraulic linkage system. If you have an older truck most likely you will have a mechanical linkage. This is what i am going to explain here. With a mechanical linkage simply use a wrench to move the "bullet" into the clutch fork. There are two nuts involved. One nut moves the "bullet" and the other smaller nut locks the large bolt in place so it wont move through time. Sometimes the linkage has wear and it wont adjust easily. You will need to find to look at everything and make adjustment by either home fabrication, or if you can buy the part new. Not sure where you can get it though. I use fabricated my parts because no one appeard to have any for a 1981 ford f250. Good Luck

They don't have clutch cables. It is a hydraulic clutch with a master cylinder and a slave cylinder. If the clutch won't work fill the brake master cylinder with fluid. The clutch uses the same fluid as the brake and they share the same resrvoir of fluid. Follow the line from the clutch master cylinder across the transmission to the slave cylinder of the clutch. The slave cylinder is on the front middle of the transmission/engine. Take the cover off the bleeder valve and place a clear plastic hose over the nipple into a container of brake fluid. Have someone pump the clutch several times and then hold it to the floor. This is the time for you to open the bleeder valve. Air will escape into the container of fluid. Once the bubbles have stopped close the bleeder valve and have your assistant pump the clutch again. Keep doing this procedure until there are no more bubbles. Fill the master cylinder with brake fluid while you are doing this. If it goes down to far it will get air into your brakes and your clutch.

Your throw out bearing is the problem.

Just did it twice remove fan shroud (7 bolts) unhook pos battery terminal use wrench or wise grips to remove fan. anyway possible increase tension on the serpentine belt to reduce the fan pully slipping as you trun counter clockwise. ake 3/8 rachet put shaft into the belt tensioner counter clockwise and remove serp belt remove hose clamps 2 on top smal hoses large one left bottom you'll get spillage so use basin under the car. 4 bolts hold the pump on I removed the pully direct above the pump and the tension pully to create more room to work remove the fan puuly from the old pump 4 bolts reverse the whole process to replace the new one. Chilton has a decent manual

Hmmmm. I tried a search using "clutches" then "changing" and then "video" and appeared to come up with nothing. It's complicated by the fact that there is a band called Clutch, and obviously they have a Video, so this obscures an awful lot of the hits. Maybe what you want is in there somewhere, maybe not. Phil

I had the same problem with our TB. It is connected to the water pump. Have your water pump replaced and your problem will be solved. Water pump cost approx. $80

i had a similar problem...my mechanic used a piece of hose which he linked to the front brake caliper nipple and the other to the nipple on the gearbox...pumped the brakes gently a few times then pumped the clutch pedal slowly...this brought my clutch bake again..cdx 2000 model...cost me 20 quid

I recently had the dubious pleasure of replacing my girlfriend's clutch cable on a 1994 Vectra.Take the cable off at the clutch arm end obviously,unless it snapped,then strip the panel in the driver's footwell.Lie on your back inside the car and look up.You will see that there is a small hole in the clutch pedal mounting.Also,you will see one end of the return spring for the pedal itself,prise the spring out of its retaing groove with a screwdriver.The old cable can easily be removed,then fit the new one.Afterwards fit the return spring again.Its the spring itself that keeps the cable in.It looks a bit daunting,but its really not that bad.Just make sure you dont do this job in the lashing rain when its dark.with people asking "are you done yet?" every 8 seconds,also it might be a good idea to bring a bazooka to blow the car to holy hell if you do not suceed lol

Since I am not experienced with that make and model, this answer will be generic in nature. Most vehicle clutch system are similar in nature, and all use some kind of "linkage" between the pedal and the clutch assembly. The cause of the symptoms you describe suggest a failure of the linkage which connects the clutch pedal to the clutch itself. There are two types of linkage: the older mechanical, and the new style hydraulic. The older mechanical type uses either a rod, or a cable to connect the pedal to the clutch. If your vehicle has one of these, then the symptoms you describe suggest that a connector has come loose, or a rod or cable has broken. The newer vehicles use a hydraulic linkage system consisting of a master cylinder attached to the pedal, a metal line between and to the clutch assembly, and a slave cylinder at the clutch, to actuate the clutch. Again, the symptoms indicate a failure in this linkage "chain." The failure could be any one or more things in any part of this chain. Some of these include a leak anywhere in the system which allowed the hydraulic fluid to drain out, or a failure of a seal in either the master cylinder, or the slave cylinder. The "fix" for this is to first examine and analyze the entire system to determine and identify the defect which caused the problem. Once the defect has been identified, then repair or replace the part responsible. Do NOT make the mistake of trying to fix the problem by simply replacing parts one at a time, as this can become very expensive and a lot of work IF the defective part just happens to be the last one you get to.j3h.

Because that's what they want.

The a/c system will stop cooling and also if the clutch burns up it can throw the drive belt off of the vehicle..............

It might be similar to this? http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_adjust_Daewoo_Matiz_clutch_cable

Im going to try it on my daweoo cielo tonight

Best way is to"bench bleed"

Remove and secure in a vise (by the flange and not the body)

Connect 2 flexible lines to the outlet of the cylinder and run them into the reservoir

Use a dowel or similar tool to operate

Operate slowly until no bubbles are observed in reservoir

Take your time -may take 5-10 minutes to fully eliminate all air

According to the manuals, it is 59 ft lbs.

First the location is the right hand side of the transmission.Disconnect the brake line going to it,have a rag to wipe excess fluid off once removed.Now remove the two bolts that hold it.Now install the new part,hook up the brake line.Now to bleed the system make sure the reservoir is full.You will need another person inside the truck to manually push the clutch pedal once you open the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder and let them pump it until the old fluid is almost out.Close the bleeder screw and refill the reservoir again.Do the same process and make sure you see the clean fluid come thru the line on your bleeder line and NO air bubbles.It can take refilling the reservoir two or three times to achieve this and suggestion once you are about to close the bleeder tell the assistant to stop pumping to reduce the fluid from over flowing when you remove the bleeder line.This should not take more than 30 minutes to do and use brake cleaner to clean off the slave when done.Just top off the fluid level to full and place the cap on it.Hope this is detailed enough to understand and most auto stores sell a bleeder kit with the clear lines and numerous fittings to fit on the bleeder because they do vary in size and make sure the line to the rubber bleeder fitting is secure and fits tightly onto the metal bleeder you will hook it up to.