Clutches and Flywheels

Yes you do, do not remove the switch with freeon in the system. must drain system down. It depends on the vehicle. Many (if not most) of the "clutch cycling" switches are actually simple pressure sensors and there is a schrader valve which will hold the pressure while you change the valve. A little more research is appropriate for YOUR vehicle before you decide what to do.

A "hydraulic clutch" use's standard DOT 3 Brake Fluid nothing more. Follow the steel line from the master cylinder up, where it ends is the Fluid Reservoir. Use caution when replacing the fluid as you do not want air in the lines. So to change the fluid simply remove the fluid using an old Turkey baster and pour in the new fluid to the correct level.

Check fluid level

May need fluid and filter change

May need transmission overhaul

THIS IS HOW IT'S DONE ON A 1998 CHEVY 1500 AUTOMATIC... I THINK IT SHOULD BE CLOSE TO THE SAME. NOT SURE THOUGH!!! You have to unbolt the tranny from the engine........ followed by the bolts out of the back of the fly wheel....... then unbolt the place where the frame meets from the rear to the frontend.... hook a cable crank to the rear axel and one of the cross supports of the front frame........ slowly draw the frame back with the crank until you have enough room to take the old one out and put the new one in. BE SURE TO HAVE A FLOOR JACK UNDER THE TRANNY SO IT DOESN'T DROP!!

Both are the same term for the same part.

Brake fluid is the medium used in the vehicle brake system to apply hydraulic pressure from the the master cylinder to the calipers or wheel cylinders to apply the pads or shoes against the discs or drums to stop the vehicle when the brake pedal is pushed. It is added to the master cylinder when it is low.

if your asking this question please don't do any work yourself if your car is having a break issue; its something you don't want to mess with.

Heres a list of step by step instructions. Hope this helps


Tools: 12mm, 14mm, 17mm deep well 6 or 12 point sockets various metric wrenches of the same size. It is more convienent to have these in 1/2 and 3/8 drive.
Impact Tools are a plus (USE CAUTION AND WEAR PROTECTIVE GEAR!)
2 floor jacks
A trustworthy friend..

Steps:
1. Engage the parking brake
2. Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels
3. Loosen the front lug nuts slightly then raise the vehicle with a floor jack about 14" lifting under the front cross-member.
4. Place jackstands under both the passenger and driver side of the Storm.
5. Lower the car and check to make sure your stands are secure. Place the jack under the transmission using a small 4x6 block of wood and just lift it enough to snug.
6. Remove the front wheels
7. Remove the throttle body air supply tube, and air filter by unlatching the air box and using a flat screwdriver at the throttle assembly.
8. Remove the Battery, then the two bolts retaining the coil to the battery tray. Disconnect the coil wire. (set the battery on a work bench, do not sit the battery on the ground!)
9. Disconnect the shift links from the shifter assembly. Make sure to remove the shims securing them to the retaining bracket. Make sure you remove the ground wire attached to the transmission, and the two red wires for the reverse lights below the battery tray.
10.Disconnect the clutch cable and rest it atop the intake manifold.
11.Disconnect the speedometer cable from underneath the vehicle,it should only be hand tight and should not require a tool to remove it.
12.Remove the brake caliper bracket as one assembly with a 17mm. Restrain the caliper to the coil spring with a heavy duty zip tie. (Do NOT let the caliper hang from the brake line.

*** Important -- Remove the transmission fluid carefully at this point. When you yank out the axle shaft, there would be tons of fluid dropping on your shop floor.

13.From the driver-side remove the two 17mm bolts retaining the strut to the spindle.
14.Instead of removing the bottom bolt securing the a-frame to the spindle remove the two 17mm bolts at the bottom that holds the entire assembly.
15.Remove the spindle and axle shaft as one whole unit, and setit aside. Place all the bolts and nuts inside of the jackstand base.
16.Remove the two 17mm bolts attaching the a-frame to the spindle (the bottom bolts) on the passenger side.
17.From underneath remove the two 14mm bolts attaching the axle shaft carrier bearing from the engine block.
18.Gently pry the passenger side axle-shaft out of the transmission housing. Pulling from the spindle, move the assembly outward and away from the transmission.
19.Remove the large tranny mounting bolt at the front of the vehicle.(Will need 17mm wrench for this to clear manifold)
20.Remove the front two bolts retaining the crossmember under the radiator.
21.Remove the two back crossmember bolts, then remove the large tranny mount bolt in back.
22.Twist the crossmember so that the front is pointing at the passenger side and then twist it so the bottom side faces the passenger side. Lower it out, then set it aside. (No..I don't know what that large round weight is mounted on the crossmember....).
23.Remove the three 14mm bolts holding the transmission to the mount underneath the battery tray. Then remove the large bolt retaining the mount to the body. Set the mount aside.
24.Now it's time to remove all of the transmission bolts that attach the tranny bellhousing to the engine. It is safer to start at the bottom and get these out first. Then get all of the top bolts leaving one secured.
25.This will require that friend I mentioned earlier, the one standing around yapping about his car while you were working.
26.Use the other floor jack with a 4x6 block of wood and snug it underneath the oil pan.
27.Snug the jack under the gearbox part of the transmission and then remove the top bolt holding the transmission in. From underneath your friend should have a good hold on the transmission and all of the weight should be on the jack.
28.Gently pull the transmission away from the engine and give it a slight jerk if it is binded up. At this point you should see the separating of the transmission and engine from the top. It is safe to lower the jack slowly because the mainshaft is short enough to clear. DO NOT USE THE CLUTCH LEVER TO HOLD THE TRANSMISSION. (unless you want to find out where your throw out bearing landed..)
29.Communication is key, make sure your friend knows what you are doing when you are doing it. Once you have the transmission out place it aside.
30.Remove the bolts retaining the pressure place to the flywheel and place the clutch disk aside. Check the pressure plate for scoring or deep groves. (It is always a good idea to have the flywheel resurfaced at a machine shop if installing a new clutch! $35-$40 is worth having to do this again 3 months later!)
31.Following the manufacturers directions place the new clutch disk against the flywheel using a clutch alignment tool. With the tool still attached place the (hopefully new) pressure plate against it and "SNUG" all of the bolts in. Make sure it is centered and remove the tool then torque the pressure plate to 17 lbs.
32.Clean the inside of the bellhousing with contact cleaner, brake cleaner, or carb cleaner and replace the throw-out bearing and retaining spring. Take carefull note of how the spring is mounted. If you put this in upside down it WILL come off. Lube the shaft, bearing, fork and fork spring with synthetic or standard grease.

Installation of the transmission is the reverse of removal. To ensure that the transmission sits flush against the engine use a 1/2 drive socket wrench and socket to turn the engine over by the harmonic balancer bolt. This will turn the splines on the clutch so they line up with the mainshaft splines on the transmission.

I have the clutches in my kx 85 but the clutch rode that goes to the clutch cable keeps Hitting the clutch Case How do I fix it

Chilton's "General Motors - Corcia/Beretta 1988-96 Repair Manual, page 7-14" HOWEVER...Although it appears to be a single assembly, (Master - rigid hose - Slave) I was able to purchase just Master cylinder (1988) the slave cyl has bleeder valve on it. 1990 - 96 do not, and a rather tedious bleeding process is described. (pg. 7-16) any questions contact me. Can you put e-mail address in here ? Kris krisnelson40@hotmail.com

because of the aux pump pressure switch. thats why you hear it cycling. it cuts off

2900 psi and Cuts back on 150 below what it cut off but no lower than 2400

no

Because it was overused.

The 1999 Hyundai Accent GL recommended transmission oil is API GL 5, SAE 75W90 semi synthetic transmission fluid. The transmission fluid can be purchased at any auto parts store.

Never heard of one. Unless it is located next to the henway.

you need to bleed your clutch fluid

The flywheel smooths out the pulse of the power stroke and its inertia allows the crank shaft to continue rotating to bring the next piston into position to fire. Look at it like this: You could pedal your bicycle with one foot if the pedal had a flywheel on it.

Just got this bike. Never mind- just researched and noted the bike has a hydraulic clutch/cylinder - I checked and the fluid was almost out - that would explain it.

try rotating the flywheel as the holes will only line up in a certain position on some vehicles. I hope this solves your problem

The hydraulic clutch line reconnects by just pushing it into the connection it came out of on the slave cylinder. You should hear a click when it is in place. The clutch will not depress if the line is not fully inserted into the slave cylinder. There are little metal "fingers" inside of the connection that hold the hose in place. There are 4 groups of three fingers inside the connection. The outside two of the group are up about 1/8" and the middle one is down. A common problem is the fingers that are up get pushed down not allowing it to hold the fitting in place when it is inserted into the slave cylinder. To fix this gently use a small pick to lift the fingers back to their original height. There is also an O ring on the hydraulic line that can be lodged in the fitting. Inspect the fitting to ensure that it has not become stuck which would prohibit the quick connect from latching.

I would take it to someone like the dealer since it is a pain ( I did one this weekend) you have to have a screwdriver coming from the top and the bottom of the transaxle case and push in the throw out bearing while you push back on the transmission.

Get a piece of hose that will fit over the bleeder screw on the slave cylindar. Put the other end in a container with enough brake fluid in it to cover the end of the hose. Then slowly pump the clutch. Should take less than one filling of the master to bleed the system. Tighten the bleeder screw and done.

You cannot adjust the clutch. It is hydraulic, with a master cylinder and slave cylinder in the transmission. Their are no adjustments. Make sure system has fluid and no leaks.

Adjusting the cable alone isn't the correct way to adjust the clutch, it must first be adjusted at the clutch adjuster screw.

First loosen the cable adjuster to give as much slack as possible (basically you're shortening the cable sheath). Then remove the derby cover (large round dome-shaped cover on the chaincase). In the center of the clutch you'll see the adjuster screw with a locknut. Loosen the locknut with an 11/16 wrench and back the adjuster screw out a couple of turns using a 7/32" Allen wrench.

Now turn the adjuster screw inward (clockwise) until it bottoms out, but not real hard. Then back the screw out 1/2 to 3/4 turn and while holding the adjuster screw in that position with the Allen wrench, tighten the locknut securely. Put the derby cover back on.

Now adjust the cable so that there's 1/16" to 1/8" (less is better) inch of play between the ferrule (that's the cable's "collar" at the lever end) and the lever bracket. To get an accurate reading, use one hand to pull the sheath away from the lever bracket while working the lever back & forth with the other hand.

Many people like to adjust their clutch cable so that the clutch engages/disengages when the lever's very close to the grip (so they don't have to reach their fingers as far), but that can cause clunky shifting and difficulty finding neutral because the clutch needs as much travel as possible for the clutch plates to fully separate (disengage). You want the very minimum of free play in the lever, in other words the lever should move only a tiny amount before the clutch starts to disengage.

Don't adjust your clutch for comfort, adjust it for performance. At least 80% of all Harley shifting problems are caused by clutch drag from improper adjustment.

in the engine compartment, by drivers side fender, on the end by windshield, in the corner, It will be A plastic reservoir about the size of A case for 35mm film, with A black top.