Dodge Dakota

It took me, a fairly experienced, non-pro auto repair DIY'er about 3 hours to do it in my 1994 Dakota 4X4 by method of removing the fuel tank (some people remove the truck box and leave the tank installed, I think the time and headache is about the same). Having done the job, now I could probably do it in about 2 hours with the appropriate tools available.

My #1 time waster was dropping the tank and then discovering that it was too tall to slide out from under the truck. Had to jack up the truck to get the tank out. Do yourself a favour and drive the truck up onto ramps or blocks to give about 6 inches more clearance before starting the job.

broken motor mount

1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

1-6-5-4-3-2 rotor turns clockwise.

Well, don't worry about "where" it is...because if you don't know where it is you don't need to be messing with it ;) Resetting it does not involve touching the computer itself. Just take off the negative and positive (positive first) terminals off of your battery. Get back into your car and pump the brakes to the floor 3-4 times to expend any remaining power via your brake lights. Leave the terminals off for 10-15 minutes. Reconnect negative first then positive and enjoy a smoother running car.

Actually dude, You only need to keep the terminals off for approx. 10 seconds. It says so right in the manual, and on both Dave Black's and Jeff Lucius's websites. Both are invaluable resources for 3kgt and Stealths

Dude never ever remove the positive wire on the battery first it causes a bigger spark and if there is anything flamable around your screwed always remove the negetive first and reconnect the positive first and then the negetive

If you really want to get at the ECU (located behind radio). Remove the carpeted panels on each side of the console, under the dash. There will be 3 small 10mm bolts holding it in, and 3 wire harnesses connected.

2001 and newer Explorers have a separate control module for the 4x4 system it is mounted behind the right front passenger kick panel . Helpfull

1-6-5-4-3-2 clockwise rotation.

12: you disconnected your battery less then 50 key 'on-off' cycles ago

55: end of codes

Start by running a computer diagnostic. That can tell you a lot. If you get nothing from the diagnostic the problem is most likely related to fuel delivery. But the computer diagnostic is first.

Then check fuel pressure. There should be a fuel pressure test port. Make sure the pressure is up where it belongs.

If all of the above test out, run a compression test. Worn engines will often loose compression and that can result in loss of power. GM used a good engine in the 94's and if properly maintained they last a long time.

That should be enough information to get you some good ideas of what's going on.

The pump is in the tank and the regulator is near the throttle body in the rail. GM has had many fuel pump problems with your model so I would suggest you focus on the fuel pump. I hope this helps you.

New answer; He's right on the pump. But the regulator is mounted on the throttle

body behind the injecters up on top.

www.dodgeforum.com. 1st Gen Dakotas. these guys are awesome.

Under the dash, far passenger side.

they are sold as one unit. being the lower control arm.

Buy aftermarket ones. They're only sold as a control arm assembly. See the first answer.

Just did this. What a pain. Had to use a torch to cut the bolts as the rubber grommet was seized to the bolt and it would not pount through. Good Luck.

I also had to do that, more of a pain than the amount of money i saved doing it myself. I used a torch, angle grinder and chisel to get mine apart. Went in easy though.

V8 : 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

I6 : 1-5-3-6-2-4

Sounds like a fuel pump going bad. I have a 1992 Dakota that I just had to replace the pump this last spring. I had the same problem. The sending unit worked just fine until it got down to a half tank and then it just fell over to empty. When removing the fuel pump (from the gas tank on a 92) there are alignment arrows on the fuel pump that MUST lign up with the mark on your gas tank or else your sending unit will not work properly. Hope this helps!

u need a press tool like a clamp ask autoz or advance then the fun part holding it together and pressing the ball joint out use some tape after you do 1 its easy

this advise should be concider as an opinion.

depending on how you purchased the vehicle the manufacturer will make their desicion.

perhaps you had the vehicle serviced by an auto shop that isn't lisence by Chrysler and therefore you voided your waranty.

or the vehicle was purchase used and the above problem was an issue.

or the vehicle was savage.

if they wont change it , you may have to have it change at your own cost.(don't go to a dealer)

If it is a 2w drive then it is 185 ft. lbs.

The engine computer is also the regualtor.

The engine computer is also the regualtor.

change the turn signal flasher flasher

could be a fuse

I haven't done lately, but for most GM vehicles of that time period you do this:

1-Remove interior door trim.

2-Unplug window motor.

3-Remove the two bolts or nuts (10 mm head) attaching the glass to the regulator.

4-Slide the glass about 2/3 of the way down, tip it forward, and slide it out of the door.

5-Remove the four bolts (10 mm head) holding the regulator to the door.

6-Reverse the process using the new regulator.

You could need to tighten your motor mounts. Or it could be starting to slip which is a sign of transmission problems. Sometimes you can go to a parts place like auto zone or parts city,just any local parts place and get this stuff called LUCAS'S it goes in and basicly cleans out build up which can cause the tranny to slip or you could need to put new tranny fluid in sometimes it get old it can't lubricate the parts right. I would try that Lucas's first if it could be something as simply as "washing' out the build up using the cleaner recomened or changing the fluid out. If these simple things don't help the problem you will have to take it to a shop because for some reason it is not slipping into to the gears and catching. If your tranny is going out on you when it does go you will be stuck so I would try the simple soulutions first. Good Luck.

Rotate the switch on the rod for the master cylinder for the clutch. Take out the retaining clip. Remove the clutch pedal position switch from the rod. Disconnect the electrical plug. Plug the new clutch pedal position switch in and installation is the reverse of removal

It is under the front outside of the passenger side cylinder head.