Dodge Durango

40%

The EPA range estimate for the 2004 Dodge Durango is 378 mi. in the city, 513 mi. on the highway.

Total capacity is 12 quarts.

Total capacity is 12 quarts.

It is in the center of the HVAC housing under the dash.

Should be at the engine end of the upper radiator hose

it is actually 7 quarts

First remove tire. Second remove two bolts on caliper and remove caliper. Third if the rotor is loose, take it off. If rotor is tight you willl need to hit it with a hammer between the studs to break it free of the rust behind it. You do not need to remove axle nut, or wheel bearing.

lift up the hood and look on the right fender

Each speaker has it's own amp. Generally, the capacitors fail. Bose will repair for about $100 each.

# Remove necessary air filter tubing at throttle body. # Prior to removing ignition coil, spray compressed air around coil base at cylinder head. # Prior to removing spark plug, spray compressed air into cylinder head opening. This will help prevent foreign material from entering combustion chamber. # Remove spark plug from cylinder head using a quality socket with a rubber or foam insert. Also check condition of ignition coil o-ring and replace as necessary. # Inspect spark plug condition.. # Start the spark plug into the cylinder head by hand to avoid cross threading. # Tighten spark plugs.. # Before installing ignition coil(s), check condition of coil o-ring and replace as necessary. To aid in coil installation, apply silicone to coil o-ring. # Install ignition coil

You (most likely) threw a pad, as in the brake 'pad' has separated from the metal plate it sits on that keeps it in it's proper place inside the brake caliper. When your foot's not on the brake pedal there's minimal pressure applied by the caliper by the brake system and that small, constant 'push' from the system is enough to cause the pad so scrape, vibrate and make that lovely grounding noise. When you depress the brake pedal the remainder of the brake pad that's there is being squeezed with immense pressure and essentially unable to produce a noice that sounds like metal lightly grounding.

You might need a new rotor on that corner now, I wouldn't be surprised it the rotor's surface resembles the Grand Canyon.

check your answer

seafoam in oil pan or stp super gas treatment

In the intake manifold, behind the alternator. About one inch to the left of the radiator hose and thermostat.

Okay, if it isn't a manual...get them to check the transmission sensor. I had to have a tech guy from the plant in Springville? come to Jackson, Tn. and test mine. My automatic would stall on take off at odd times and leave me hanging in the middle of an intersection. When it finally would jump into first it'd give you whiplash. They replaced the sensor and haven't had a problem since.. Carolyn I am assuming this is a manual transmission. It may be due to your clutch not fully disengaging. Have you noticed the shifter being hard to move between gears? If so, is your clutch master cylinder fluid low? ( It is located near the firewall on the drivers side near your brake master cylinder - the clutch master uses DOT 3 brake fluid)On such a new car I would think the clutch slave cylinder would be OK ,but check it anyway. I hope this helps you. Mark

There is 1 in the passengers side manifold in front of muffler easily reached from just under the truck the other is behind the cat converter

You need to raise the liftgate, then remove the liftgate upper trim panel. Remove the panel by carefully pulling straight out, it's only held in by spring clips. You'll now be able to access the bulb holders. Remove the bulb holders by rotating them 1/4 turn clockwise. The bulbs pull straight out from the holders. Put everything back together in reverse.

this is a common problem that happen to bmws, there sensors go bad, there are two sensors , one for intake,and one for exhaust. the intake is the most difficult, its located at the front of your engine on the left hand side (as you sit in the car looking straight ahead) of the cylinder head. its right to the right of the oil filter housing. this sensor however has a wire with a connector that strings down by the butterfly throttle, intake box and tubing, oil filter, and vvt solenoid will have to be removed in order to remove senosor, exhaust sensor is much more easy, its loacted on the front end of the cylinder head on the right side right behind the radiator, it has a connector right at the sensor, disconnect sensor and remove the one 5mm hex bolt(same on both sensors), be very careful not to strip or snap off the bolt due to aluminum head. good luck.

Facing the engine on the right closest to the radiator is #1 then 3 5 7 to your firewall. Otherside, on the left closest to the radiator is #2 then 4 6 8.

With engine oil filter change

The 4.0 L - V6 - takes ( 5 quarts - U.S. of 5W-30 )

The 4.6 L - V8 - takes ( 6 quarts of 5W-20 )

According to the 2004 Mercury Mountaineer Owner Guide

Either the upper or lower control arm will come loose and the tire will lay over, you will lose all steering, you will lose all braking, and look pretty stupid sitting on the road if you let it go very long.

A wire is broken, or pulled out of the multifunction switch plug.

Rear shocks:

You will need 15 and 18 mm sockets or wrenches, but combination wrenches will work as well. First, place your vehicle on jack stands and also support the side you are doing with a jack. (If you remove the spare tire it will give you a lot more room to work.) Second, coat the bull pens (bolts that attach shocks to vehicle) with penetrating oil (like WD-40) and let set for a while. Then put you 15 mm socket on the bolt and the 18 mm wrench on the nut and controllably push the socket and pull the wrench to loosen bolt then remove all the way leaving the bolt on. On the top side you will want a socket extension. Put the wrench and socket on the same things as last time, but because it might be rusty you will have to work the 18 mm on to the nut. When you start removing the bolt only use the socket and let the wrench go where it wants because it should run in to another bolt that will hold it in place. Once loosened, remove again leaving the bolt on. Then take your wrench and hit the bolt so it comes out. After you get the bottom bolt out you should be able to pull the top on out. Once both bolts are out remove shocker. To put new ones back on just reverse the order. (Note: If you are replacing with gas shocks you will have to push them up a little bit. You might also have to use the wrench to get the bolt back in.) One more thing: When putting the nuts back on start them by hand then use the tools to get them on all the way. And tighten as tight as you can. I am not sure how to change the front shocks (if any) so you are on your own with that.

$160.00 bucks

Yes