Dodge Durango

It is under the dash on the left side

you ned to have vehicle put on computer to determine what the problem is. this could be a sensor ,a switch or a leak ,regardless, there is a problem in your brake system

0.40 for sure

To change the front shocks on a durango the best way is to place the vehicle on a jack .The jack needs to be under the lower control arm behind the tire and jacked up off the ground and tire removed from the vehicle.Loosen up the lower bolts and remove [this takes an impact wrench or a breaker bar and some penetrating oil and a strong arm].

To change the rear shocks jack the rear of the vehicle off the ground and place jack stands under the frame of the vehicle in front of the vehicles rear tires...lower the vehicle to the jack stands and remove the top bolts to the shocks [springs will hold it up] then remove the lower bolts. Now replace the old shocks with the new shocks in the exact same way the old ones came off.Make sure the nuts and bolts are tightened until them can not be tightened any more usually takes an impact driver or a very strong arm.

This is due too the hvac control head needs to have the mode doors recalibrated. If the recalibration fails repairs will need to be made until the system will past I don't know of anyway to by pass the recalibration at this time.. You will need to see a dodge dealership for this to be done.

drivers side just in front of transfer case the sensor is yellow the only one in that area.

Mopar atf+4 do not use dextron

45 miles, one hour driving time

A good place to look is Auto Zone. com. You will have to log in but the info is worth it. The site has instructions and pictures on many of DIY things for your truck. And you can print the instructions to take with you.

2 - one located on top of exhaust pipe before cat-converter Pre-cat"

- one located between cat and muffler/silencer on top of pipe rear or post - cat

!!! Note well post - cat has two different sensor types driver side facing or passenger

the sensor faces to the right or left !!!

look on the vin, the 8th digit will indicate the engine size. example: "Y" is 5.2 and "Z" would be 5.9

Assy is short for assembly.

you should check the belts. Sounds like one is a little loose and slipping. or the system may be over-charged

If it is the heater fan, there is a short in the wiring.

If you mean the cooling fan on the radiator, it is normal with some vehicles.

For a 2006 Accord 4 cylinder it will take about 4.5 - 4.75 liters of oil. Just convert to quarts. The 2003 and 2006 4 cylinder Accord is essentially the same engine.

Just for extra info: the bottom mark on the oil dipstick is about 4 liters. So if the oil mark is halfway you would have added about 4.5 liters. Also, if the oil level is about 3/4 above the bottom mark on the dipsitck, then you have 4.75 liters of oil.

Remove the two screws that hold the cover plate on to the bumper recess and remove the plate. If no cover plate is there, then loosen the screws only. After the plate is removed or the screws loosened what ever you may have on your vehicle just move the housing around the edge of the license plate recess. Turn the bulb assembly 1/4 of a turn counter-clockwise and the bulb housing will come out of the plastic casing. Exchange bulb and reinstall the opposite way.

It is located on the side of the oil fill cap. There is a reservoir there to catch drips, and the pcv mounts in the side of it with a hose leading up to it.

Had same problem with 1998 ford contour gl. Replaced transmission range sensor and problem stopped.

It sounds like your power wire matched up with a ground wire on the trailer or vise versa so replace the blown fuse for the marker lights and everything should be good. Check fuses in cab and in engine compartment.

change the trnsmition if your lucky and depending on the year it may not be worth it. One cheep modification if your sick of the car would be to set it on fire and and enjoy the radio wile having a drink with your honey, At least until that goes, but then u get to wate till the tires pop!

It is an emission leak. I had that and P0456 pop up at the same time. Bought a new lockable gas cap from a locale parts store. Same problem. Bought a new one from Dodge dealer...problem fixed. No idea why but I have since heard that only OEM caps will solve the problem. Probably because the cost twice as much! :( Emission leak. I got the same code. Replace gas cap with new one from DEALER and it should fix the problem. I made the mistake of getting a new locking one from Checker Auto Parts. Apparently they do not work. You could also have a crack in any of the vaccuum and emission hases between the tank and the engine. The canister(about 2 feet in front of tank) and the purge solenoid(behind battery) are normal places for cracks.

In the trunk, under the spare tire cover.

It means "Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (small leak)" What that means is a tiny leak in the fuel evap system, most likely the gas cap. Remove and reinstall the gas cap (past the clicks) and clear the code. If the code comes right back, check the hoses leading to the charcoal canister near the gas tank under the truck for wear. My '99 Durango throws this code about twice a year, I just clear it and it's good to go for about 6 months. This code will never affect the drivability of the truck, It's just there for pollution purposes, like most OBD-II codes. Good Luck! See this; http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/generic/p0442-evaporative-emission-control-system-leak-detected-small.php

If your Jeep needs a cooling system flush, this is a great time to do that. It's helpful to install a flush-and-fill kit and to get a container of radiator flush concentrate. Let the concentrate circulate in the engine for the length of time specified and then let the engine cool. 10-minute concentrate seems to work pretty well.

Rather than drain the old coolant through the draincock as may be specified on the concentrate instructions, you can get good access to the lower radiator hose by removing the air filter housing which is located on same side as the power steering pump. Unclip the top of the air filter cover and move to the side. Remove the air filter and then remove the 3 bolts holding the housing to the engine compartment.

With a catch pan in place (flat, 2- or 3-gallon), loosen the clamp on the radiator side of the lower radiator hose. Let the old coolant drain into catch pan. Transfer the old coolant into sealable containers until you can take them to a recycling or disposal facility.

Using the flush-and-fill kit, flush the engine cooling block (cool engine only!) until water is clear coming out the lower radiator hose.

Same can be done with the radiator. Pour clean water into the top of radiator and let it run out the port for the lower radiator hose. You'll get a more complete flush of the entire radiator if you temporarily plug the port with a hand or rag and then release once the radiator is filled.

If your serpentine belt has cracks on the grooved side or if your radiator or heater hoses are getting old, this is a good time to replace them. Some Jeeps also seem to "eat up" thermostats pretty quickly. Get a replacement 195 degree thermostat and gasket if you want.

Now for the water pump replacement.

Loosen and remove the serpentine belt. Remove the power steering pump. There are 3 bolts that attach to a bracket that is attached to the engine block. Plus 2 bolts that secure the PS pump to the water pump. The PS pump will still be attached to the car by the hoses but it can now be moved out of the way. USe a bungy cord or something to keep it away from the work area. Now there are 4 bolts that attach the water pump to the engine. 3 of the bolts will be visible. The fourth is below the water pump. You also need to remove the pulley from the water pump. It's attached with 4 bolts. Keep this handy as you need to install the pulley on the new water pump.

Loosening the bolts on the water pump pulley can be tricky since the pulley will spin and there is nothing really to grab onto. One thing that helps is to use a long narrow bar put diagonally between 2 of the pulley bolts while you loosen another. A long (and strong) Allen wrench works well.

Lever the Allen wrench or similar against 2 bolts and loosen the bolt closest to you. Take care that the bar does not slip (and your knuckles get banged up)! Leave this bolt in its hole after just loosening it. Rotate the pulley to next bolt and repeat. Once all are loosened you can hold the pulley by hand and remove the 4 loosened bolts

There are 2 hoses attached to the water pump. The heater hose and the bottom radiator hose. Remove the hoses and you should now be able to remove the water pump. You may also have to remove the electric fan and fan shroud prior to removing the water pump. There was no electric fan on the 1996 Cherokee that this novice just replaced so it was not an issue. After removing the old water pump unscrew the pipe for the heater hose or buy a new one. Use some teflon tape and attach this pipe to the new water pump.

Be sure to install the heater hose pipe to the new water pump so it will be lined up with the heater hose when the pump is installed. You won't be able to rotate the heater hose pipe after the pump is intalled.

You also need some RTV silicon sealer for the water pump gasket. Put a thin layer on both sides of the gasket. Clean the area where the water pump attached to the engine and then carefully put the new water pump in place. Now secure the water pump to the engine and then put the pulley back on. Reverse the above steps and replace the PS pump. BTW to loosen the serpentine belt first loosen the bolt that holds the pulley located directly below the PS pump. Then back off on the tension bolt which is located on the bracket that secures the PS pump at the top of the bracket off to the left side of the PS pump. Fill with coolant and you should be good to go. This procedure was just performed on this novice mechanics own 1996 Cherokee yesterday (now successfully done on 2 Jeeps). So far so good. Good Luck. BTW you will need 13mm, 14mm and 15mm sockets and wrenches to remove and replace all the bolts mentioned.

Head Torque sequence Step 1: torque to 50 Ft/Lbs Step 2: torque to 105 Ft/Lbs recheck final torque in sequence.