Dodge Durango

Your best bet is to purchase a Haynes or Chilton manual for your vehicle as there are several variations of capacities between the engines. For example the 4.7 V8 holds 6 quarts of oil and the 5.2/5.9 V8 holds 5 quarts of oil. There were 4 different models of transmissions used all of which have different fluid capacities. Transfer cases varried for the 4WD models and even the cooling systems had different capacities between the 4.7 which holds just over 4 gallons of coolant where the 5.2/5.9 only holds a little over 3 1/2 gallons.

po320 indicates acrankshaft position sensor problem should probably be replaced

Bearing in motor seizing Try removing motor and drilling small hole in end to lubricate--sometimes this works

The front track of the 2004 Dodge Durango is 5 ft. 4.4 in. (64.4 in.).

it sits just below the intake manifold...hard to get at .

You need to replace blower motor resistor.

There are two small indented buttons marked with an "H" and a "M" h for hour m for minute, they are located on the upper right side of your radio just above your screen that shows the radio station and time. Use something like the tip of a pen and depress the small buttons to change the hour or minute. Its very simple as there is no provision for AM or PM

Around 4200-4400 lbs

YOU MEAN FROST PLUGS THERE NOT THAT BAD TO GET THEM OUT USE A PUNCH ON THE EDGE OF THEM YOU WANT TO TURN THEM IN THE HOLE CAREFULL NOT TO DROP THEM IN THE BLOCK OF THE MOTOR GRAB THEM WITH A PAIR OF PLYERS PULL IT OUT CLEAN HOLE WELL AND TAP THE NEW ONE IN UNLESS IT HAS A BUTERFLY LOCK HOOK IT ON THE INSIDE OF THE BLOCK AND JUST SNUG IT UP MAKE SURE IT SEATS PROPERLY DONT OVER TIGHTEN

Trouble code P0700 means:Transmission control system malfunction

About 169 mph, or about 272 km/h

o.k. i just did this repair on my truck so i hope this will help someone because it was a bear for me to replace.

1. drain your coolant 2. loosen the fan shroud and let it hang 3. remove the cooling fan. This step is not so easy. you need to by a tool set to remove this. It's only about 15 bucks for a wrench and a tool to hold the pulley. remember that this fan removes from the pulley in a clockwise turn(opposite from the usual way to release a bolt). It's o.k. if you dont get it off, you can just move on but it is in the way. 4. next remove the belt(pull down on the belt tensioner and it comes right off 5. remove the alternator, dont have to disconnect the electrical just unbolt 6. remove the alternator mount. 3 bolts all up front 7. now here's the hard part. There is one bolt on the water pump which cannot be removed without loosening the aircompressor/power steering pump mount. so to loosen the mount, you need to remove the belt tensioner. have to have a star bit set to remove the one bolt in the middle and it will come right off. There are 5 bolts on the mount. 2 on the driver's side three up front. the two on the side are obvious. the three on front are a little hard to find but the two hidden bolts are in the area behind where the belt tensioner was at. you dont have to disconnect the air compresor, just set the whole mount with the compressor and steering pump to the side. 8. remove all hoses from water pump. 9. remove the water pump and clean the engine surface to remove all remaining pieces of the old gasket. 10. install new gasket with rpv sealant and install new water pump.

For step 7 you do not have to remove the tensioner, you can use deep set sockets to remove the two bolts next to the tensioner.

I just did this.. it was almost perfect!

1. I did't have to remove alternator.

The Three bolts on the top. Holding the Ac powersteering pump mounting bracket on are hard to find. Some help! One bolt is in the cavity behind the idler pulley and the other is behind the tensioner pulley the third is easily seen between theses two. Also I did this on a 2000 Vin V and no star bit was necessary. Also to get the fan off I think it would be easier with belt on. I already had it off so. I unbolted the pulley and used a pipe wrench on the front of water pump and 7/8 wrench on the shaft

yes

Passenger side 2-4-6-8 Driver side 1-3-5-7

Ummm I just found twoo lady bugs on my bed actually , one large red one with spots and the other small orange with no spots . While I was sleeeping , I found money and had a fine day so far . So I guess itss a good thing . Odd place thogh lol

no it wont amc and dodge motors have diffrent bolt pattern on bellhousing summit racing will have adapter plate

Take it to a specialist, not just AAMCO. My 04 5.7 V8 hemi has 67k on it, shifts ruff, jerks, nothing wrong with tranny. Input speed sensor was malfunctioning, got car back, still shifts ruff. Went in, nothing, AAMCO, nothing just same check engine light and error code. Dodge was no help (BIG SHOCK THERE), they say the powertrain doesnt apply to me... Dodge hasn't made a believer outta me, AMF DODGE.

Its been proposed its electrical, maybe input shaft locking up, input speed sensor malfunction, transmission computer. Who knows... don't reprogram or mess with anything yourself. Find a good shop that has 1 year parts and labor in writing.

Probably a fuse or a loose cable. Try that first.

Clockwise

under the hood

This could be one of 2 problems, Lets go the cheapest. Check your Bulbs. Chrysler has rolled out a system where if a signal is burnt out the working ones flash faster. Replace the bulbs and it should stop. Now if they keep happening it could be the Flasher Moduel that is a $16 relay behind the fuse panel, Stock is Green but it could be black. Replace that and the problem should be corrected.

Chrysler had nothing to do with the light flashing fast if one bulb is burnt out. It has been that way ever since the first flasher relay was installed in a car. It is just electrical 101.

'check gauges' means one of your dash warning gauges went beyond normal paramaters, alerting a problem... my guess is- it's your oil pressure gauge....CHECK YOUR OIL level... if the level is low, when the truck leans (as when you exit an off ramp) the oil pressure will drop.

First label each spark plug wire with a piece of tape or tag indicating which hole it attaches to. This is very important because you might mix up the firing order otherwise! Next, disconnect the negative terminal on your battery so you don't shock yourself. To remove the wires, grab each by the boot and pull firmly outward. They should pop off of the plugs. Sometimes they are a pain but try not to jerk them back and forth too much or pull by the wires themselves because you can break a wire and the harness kits aren't cheap. After the wire is removed, use a socket wrench with a sparkplug socket to unscrew each plug. Plug sockets have a rubber seat that protects the socket but you can get by with a normal socket, just be careful not to damage your new plugs when you replace them. I'm not sure exactly what size but there are generally only 2 different sizes that most cars use. Getting to all the plugs with a socket wrench can be an acrobatic feat on a V8 so try different size extensions and ones with varying angles if available. Buy new plugs and a gapping tool. Ask your auto shop what the proper gap is for your vehicle and carefully bend the flat metal strip on each spark plug to the proper gap size. A good trick to get a spark plug started in the hole properly and not misthread it is to stick a 6" piece of rubber tubing over the end and use it to start turning the plug in the hole. If you misthread it, the rubber will slip and you won't screw up your entire head. Tighten each spark plug firmly with the socket but not so tight you break the threads out. Finally, replace the wires. When you start your car if it jerks around like crazy, you screwed up the firing order and you'll have to switch the wires around.

my Lexus rx300 misfired as well and i took it to the mechanic and it was the fuel injectors that where dirty because of bad gas