Ford E-150 Van

According to the 2003 Ford E150 owners manual : 5.7 liters ( 6 quarts - U.S. ) with oil filter change

The curb weight of the 2013 Ford E-Series-VAN is 5291 lbs..

If you have fixed the problem that caused the light to come on you can take it to an Auto Zone or similar parts store and they will reset it for you. Some times it will reset if you take the negative battery cable off the battery for about 20 minutes. Hope this helps.

It should be located under the dash on the drivers side.

The rear ac evaporator is located behind the interior trim panel on the left rear corner of the van. The refrigerant lines run along the left frame member.

BCI group size 56

yes you can swap rear ends from late model to early model and visa versa... as long as the gear ratios are the same. the rear ends in my 1996 full size and my 1986 full size are exactly the same except for a 3.08 ratio and a 3.42 gear ratio...

No. The spring perches are in different locations between the OOBS ('73-'87) and the OBS ('88-'98) trucks.

Maybe it isn't. Maybe it needs a tune-up.

Numrich has them for sale. Click here> http://www.e-gunparts.com/products.asp?chrMasterModel=089Zz14%201/2%20LITTLE%20SCOUT&MC= then click on "Click on list of Drawings ..." Then scroll down to the different Stevens items. I've never seen the Little Scout, but I think it's the same as the Crack Shot Model 16 (with side thumb lever), but smaller (shorter barrel and stock.) If it is, a free schematic is at www.again.net/~steve/jpg/ipb-stevens-16.jpg and at www.wisnersinc.com/explodedviews/Stevens_16_SL_crack.htm I typed the last 2 links instead of copying and pasting, so I hope they're correct. (If your gun has the lever by the trigger guard to operate the breech block, then it's similar to the Crackshot Model 26, instead of the 16. The last 2 sights have schematics for the 26.

On some E150 it is located under the dash on the drivers side.

On 2003s it is located in the left (drivers side) quarter panel below the window, near the drivers side door frame.

A bad voltage regulator can cause an overcharging condition. Check the wires going to the regulator for corrosion and make sure the regulator has a good ground.

What is the engine size?

I believe that your model has a lifting lever, and not a lift wire. You have to replace the regulator assembly to fix this system. There is a possibility that a nylon slide may have become disconnected. When you replace the regulator assembly, be advised that you will have to drill out some rivets and replace them with bolts when you re-assemble the system. This will be a big project, if you decide to do it yourself. Contact us for more information on the full procedure befory attempting it yourself.

There is always one and is located close to the termostat just follow the user radiator hose down to the housing it will be close to it

how would you damage the halfway valve on a ford econo van

I ran into the same issue. what i found out is our vans(I have same year) have faulty dpfe sensors which makes the computer think it is a egr valve, hence the 401 code. I changed my egr had to reset computer 3 times. I went to carquest today and the guy new the issue. the only problem I am having is the improved sensor has 3 prongs, the old has 2. carquest computer said you might need a new pigtail. The problem with that is they are 3 wire. I was googling that now and found your question. Just figured i would try and save you a little running around. Now for your question. Remove your filter housing and look straight back on the left hand side. you will see the egr vale clearly if you know what you are looking for. remove your dog house and from the passenger side look between the engine and the fire wall. you will need a flash light . look for the green vac hose from the egr, wiring harness and two vac hoses below it. that is the sensor. it looks like you will need to remove one nut from the dog side and one from the engine side. i will let you know when i figure out the wiring issue.

You can purchase them online at www.parts4chevys.com I think they run apx $375.00 apiece but when you give them your vin # they will be an exact match they are special order I was told but they have excellent service at that dealership and that price is actually a wholesale price (online orders get wholesale prices so I logged on and created a profile) I got a much higher quote from the retail parts counters at other dealers. So I reccommend them My interior panels are beatifull they are exact match in every single detail brand new out of the box from GM mine was a 1998 Tahoe neutral (tan) color with carpet inserts etc

the voltage regulator is located inside of the alternator ?Type your answer here...

There should be lots of them around in salvage yards. When you call looking for one, tell them which engine you have NOT which style van you drive.

I believe that is OBD I - look for the EEC TEST connection in the engine compartment , somewhere near the battery or power distribution box

Remove the seat Remove the interior panels covering the door post Pull as much carpet away from door post Remove seat belt restraint Use a gas torch to burn off the mounts holding the catch to the post CAUTION: Keep a water hose or fire extinguisher next to you. The water hose is best May need to cut open a portion of the door post to gain better access for the torch to be effective Sparks from cutting will burn the carpet. Remove carpet or provide a protective barrier Be careful while cutting to not burn any wiring Set torch flame correctly. Focus on what needs cutting Be care not to burn through door post Lots of heat, sparks and smoke will be produced Paint on door post will burn. It's hidden by the door so a quick spray can of paint will make it look brand new Buy the door catch when purchasing the new or used door latch

GOOD LUCK!

I just finished opening a 1998 Honda Civic left front door that was in the shut position and would not open. I pulled several suggestions and I believe have a better one.

1 - Just put the seat in full recline, it will give you a working padded inside surface.

2 - Carefully lift interior panel and slide the rubber glass trim out.

3 - Using a panel remover (screwdriver type instrument, bent with a v cut in center) to lift the panel up, then using a metal putty knife let the metal tab slip behind the door window metal frame.

4 - Unscrews the screws holding the arm rest and speakers

5 - Use the panel remover to pull pull the panel out

6 - Using a drummel or Roto tool with the 18 inch extension and a small drummel grinding wheel, grind off the two top heads holding the metal outside cover. Then using a long narrow good chisel get between the outside metal and striker plastic housing and separate it back. Finally, use the small grinder to cut away at the narrow points the top part of the outside metal striker plate.

7. Use a metal / plastic cutting drill bit (type used to cut Formica or aluminum) drill the plastic away from the rest of two top screws which hold the unit to the door, (look at passenger door to see position. Once the screws are free you can use the chisel to pry away the one remaining screw on bottom of latch.

8. Unscrew the 10 mm bolt holding the window track to pull the entire unit out from the bottom opening, carefully turning the unit to remove the electronic actuator (which in this case works fine).

The entire process took about three hours, it was like working as a dentist. The window until the track bolt was loosened was open so I could work from the outside of the door. Without the 18" rotary extension there was no way to get a tool in such a close area. It was funny for once the latch broke free, (we were on the outside pushing against the door for leverage, the interior door opening warning buzzer sounded and we thought it was the cell phone, when we realized what it was we stepped back the door just opened.

Once opened we removed the rest of the door panel.

I was afraid to use a used latch (spring had broken) so I have opted for a new OEM which from Honda is $125.00. No parts house listed or had the latch, only the actuator. Being in Florida the heat from the sun and being parked all day with the left door to it and my daughter, the social worker getting in and out a dozen times a day, the latch plastic went from a soap stone texture to a hard brittle plastic that with a few taps from a hammer on the chisel broke apart easily.

The entire process is 5 hours from start to finish, (not counting waiting for new latch to arrive. use a tie down strap around the seat and the inside frame to keep the door shut in the meantime. Part came in within 24 hours. I also replaced the rod attachment ends for another $6.00.

If a magnet sticks to it, then it is not aluminum.

You should have a "Rochester" carburetor on your 305 engine.

The "idle" mixture screws are hidden behind 2 caps (plugs) on the lower "front"

and left and right of the carburetor base. They are hidden (plugged) by the factory

and unless you are modifying the carb should not be tampered with.

But you can carefully grind or drill off the plugs with the carburetor off the engine.

(that is NOT RECOMENDED).

The screws require a special flexible carburetor mixture screw , screw driver to turn them. Usualy $10 to $15 dollars at parts store.

Spray with W-D 40 first, then count the number off turns and partial turns as you turn them in till they seat. DO NOT TIGHTEN DOWN HARD. gently do this because you can damage the "point" on the other end of the screw and ruin the mixture ability of the screw / needle.

You probably have another problem somewhere else that leads you to believe adjusting those screws will cure a poor running condition.

Search, "Rochester four barrel,/ tuning, tips, tricks, idle mixture / Chevy 305 carb,

etc etc.

You can also get the part number of the carb itself located on the drivers side of the carb youll need to clean the small area and probably use a flashlight.

Dont use sand paper, soft wire brush at the most, and carb cleaner is best.

The number looks something like this,

ex: 17085227

3385 HLZ

this is off a "rochester" on a 1985 vehicle with a 454 engine.

Take the number, go to a knowledgable parts store like NAPA, not the big chain places (they sually don't have the technical expertise to do what im telling you) and have them check the carbs part number located on the drivers side of the carb housing verses the rebuild kit number verses the engine size the number applies to.

To make sure the right carb is on there. This is a relliable way to do it.

I bet yours is the wrong carburetor if its been replaced.

Also check thoroughly all vacum hoses connections tune up stuff etc.

it is located on the fender wall right beside the battery.