Ford Escape XLS

It should use a 17mm (I think 11/16" will work, too) hex key. If you haven't got one of those, you can take one of the strut to control arm mounting bolts and back up the two nuts (one from each bolt) snug against each other on the bolt. Put the head of the bolt into the hex opening and to loosen it, turn the inside nut counter-clockwise. To tighten it later, just turn the outside nut clockwise.

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In a 2000 Lincoln LS :

In the FRONT power distribution box ( which is " live ) located in the engine compartment

( # 20 is a 30 amp cartridge fuse for the wiper motor )

( # 13 is a 30 amp fuse for the Heated Wiper Park )

The 2005 Ford Escape has an inline 4 engine.

Remove the tire then remove the brake caliper take the pads off and replace them just like you removed them. Put the brake caliper back on you will need to bleed the brake line on the caliper add brake fluid if needed and put the tire bak on.

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It's under the fuse box lid.

There are many causes to this problem, in a 1999 Ford Ranger 3.0L. It is usually caused by a spark plug firing when its not suppose to, or late/delayed timing.

You will more than likely not notice any drivability problems, although there may be symptoms such as a lack of power, detonation (spark knock), and/or a hesitation/surge on acceleration. A code P0171 may mean that one or more of the following has happened: * The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty. Note: The use of "oiled" air filters may cause the MAF to become dirty if the filter is over-oiled. There is also an issue with some vehicles where the MAF sensors leak the silicone potting material used to protect the circuitry. * There could be a vacuum leak downstream of the MAF sensor. Possible solutions include: * In the vast majority of cases, simply cleaning the MAF sensor does the trick. Consult your service manual for it's location if you need help. I find it's best to take it off and spray it with electronics cleaner or brake cleaner. Make sure you are careful not to damage the MAF sensor, and make sure it's dry before reinstalling * Inspect all vacuum and PCV hoses, replace if necessary * Check for a dirty fuel filter and proper fuel pressure

Type your answer here... HOW MANY VACUUM LINE ON A FORD ESCAPE

every week

The 2005 Ford Escape has 16 valves.

change belt on 2003 escape

Best solution would be to replace the O2 or oxygen sensor first to see if this eliminates your problem. If not, replace your front catalytic converter and oxygen sensor.

Forgot to mention, this is done without your vehicle requiring a basic tuneup (spark plugs, oil change and maybe spark wires, etc.).

Left side of transmission remove wheel and plastic guard it will be on the upper left at approx 2o'clock

The VSS in a 2001 Ford Escape is located on the left rear side of the transmission. There is only about an inch of it that can be seen.

Before I begin troubleshooting your fast idling problem, I need to know something first. Was your car running just fine before this fast idling problem started? Did the problem start suddenly, or slowly get worse over a period of time? Has anyone been working on your car recently? If so, what did they do? Has the intake manifold or either of the 2 fuel injectors been removed? Has the distributor been out just before this started? As I have driven my Cross Fire Injected 82 vette for 21 years, I know a great deal about them. What you are describing sounds like a massive vacuum leak. As the 1800 rpm idle speed will neither increase nor decrease, it's very possible an IAC motor (idle air control motor) pintle valve is stuck. Or you have a severely leaking power brake vacuum hose. Or a blown plastic check valve at the upper end of that power brake hose. Or a split vacuum hose at the MAP sensor. Or either one of the 2 one way plastic vacuum check valves at the upper left rear of the engine has blown apart (from a recent backfire). As an engine CANNOT run without air getting into it from somewhere, we'll look at the different places that air can get in. The most obvious place is through the throttles of the fuel injection units. And the other place is ANY vacuum hose attached to your engine. So the first thing to do is check the connection of every vacuum hose on the engine, and also check the 7/32" hose that goes from the right rear of the left fuel injector body to your MAP sensor (mounted high on the left side firewall. As the MAP sensor has a 1/4" diameter ribbed plastic nipple, and the hose going to it is a VERY CHEAP 7/32" diameter hose stretched over it, the hose is VERY prone to splitting at the MAP sensor. As a loss of vacuum at the MAP sensor throws the MAP sensor and computer into a false sense of being stuck in a wide open throttle condition (extremely rich), the engine will run quite fast if the MAP sensor hose is split. It's very wise to replace that cheap MAP sensor hose with a piece of 1/4" fuel hose, as the fuel hose is internally reinforced, oil resistant, and will last forever. To check out the individual IAC motors (screwed into the left front of each fuel injector body), take a 3/4" diameter wad of modelling clay (or something similar) and shove that wad down into the "wedge" shaped air port located in the top/left of the injector body (with a flashlight aimed down into that air port, you can see the tip of the IAC motor pintle valve at the very bottom/front). If your engine immediately slows down to idle speed or less when you plug that wedge shaped hole, then you have located the source of the excessive air getting into your engine. Do this for each of the two fuel injectors. When an IAC motor does fail, it will most likely fail with it's pintle valve in the "withdrawn" (engine start) position; opening up the round hole in the bottom of the wedge shaped hole, and allowing a LOT of air in. The more air in, the faster it will idle (in normal operation, the IAC motor withdraws the pintle valve when you are cranking the engine, then upon firing the engine, the IAC motor pintle valve quickly moves rearward (into the hole) to restrict the air; then constantly making small adjustments from then on for changing idling conditions). Don't forget to check the EGR valve either, as it can also get stuck in a wide open position and allow a huge vacuum leak. Even though it's very rare, the rubber body that your "S" shaped plastic line pushes into can get "gummy" over the years, collapse shut inside, and trap vacuum in the plastic line; holding the EGR valve in an open position. First, try simply removing that black plastic "S" shaped line (with the 90 degree rubber end) from your EGR valve. If no change, take your fingertips and lift up the diaphragm of the EGR valve and note any change in RPM (you can also put a short hose on it and suck the EGR valve open with your mouth). It's very possible a chunk of carbon is stuck in the EGR valve "seat"..........holding the valve slightly open. An engine backfire can momentarily blow the EGR valve open and stick a piece of carbon in the EGR valve's seat. Another good possibility is a hardened and broken 3/8" vacuum hose where your PCV valve hose attaches to the front of your intake manifold. If your hose is the 27 year old original, it's as hard as a rock by now and possibly broken (if someone has leaned on it recently). As it's a fairly large hose, it is a good canditate for being the source of your problem. A very remote possibility is the 3/8" diameter flimsy vacuum hose that goes to your brake light switch under the dash. Used to disengage your cruise control when you touch the brake pedal, the vacuum in that line is relieved when you touch the brake pedal. If you (or anyone else) has been fiddling under the dash on that side lately, it was possibly removed and not put back in place. Any recent backfire could have blown a vacuum hose off. But the hose most often blown off by 82 Vettes is the large one at the left rear of the right fuel injector body. The one that slips onto the smooth 7/32" diameter unribbed nipple very easily. If that one IS blown off, locate a very small "Corbin" clamp somewhere, and secure the hose back on with that. And backfires will easily blow the vacuum check valves apart as well. I had that happen to one of my small ones at the upper left rear of my engine, and as the hoses going to it are quite stiff and "set" in position, the valve halves appeared to be together. But upon close inspection, the guts were blown out of it and the plastic body halves came back together; appearing to be undamaged. These one way vacuum check valves are glued together, and after 27 years of being exposed to engine heat, the glue finally fails and the body halves come apart. I hope this information helps you.........................

According to the 2007 Ford Escape Owner Guide :

With engine oil filter change :

The 3.0 liter DOHC , " Duratec " V6 engine takes :

( 6.0 U.S. quarts / 5.7 liters of 5W-20 )

Loosen hub nut and lug nuts, jack up car, remove tire, unhook tie rod, remove brake caliper,remove hub nut, remove two bolts (7/8" hex head) holding strut assembly to steering knuckle, disconnect ball joint from steering knuckle, remove the axle end from the hub, and now everything should be out of the way, I think. Now, remove the bolt at the bottom of the bracket holding the bearing. Now, remove the retaining ring that holds the bearing in the bracket. The axle is supposed to just pop out of the transmission but that ain't happening very easily. There is a bearing on the axle shaft that sits in a housing bracket. The bearing is aluminum lined, I think, and the bracket is steel and they can be fused together and be a pain to get apart. Take two pry bars and try to pry the axle out by prying behind the metal thing behind the inner rubber boot and against the bearing bracket. If it still won't come out then try taking a big hammer or better yet, a small sledge hammer and beat the crap out of it until it comes out of the transmission. I've done three of these in two months and two came out reasonably easily and one was a thoroughbred pain in the butt!! It was stuck at the bearing and would not come loose no matter what I did. I finally had to take off the bracket holding the bearing and beat the bracket off the bearing with a sledge hammer while in a vise on the work bench. It is a bear (to say the least) getting that bracket off so pray that axle eventually comes out with a few hits of the mini sledge!!! Clean the bracket with steel wool and cover with anti-seize. Align the new axle, aligning the splines on the end of the axle with the inside of the tranny. Take a piece of wood and cover the end of the axle and GENTLY tap on the end of the axle till it pops into the tranny. Now put it all back together and you're done. Piece of cake! Huh?!

Does your jetta have a rear spoiler? I was told that mine was leaking like that and that the spoiler was leaking. I haven't fixed it yet though.

According to the 2004 Ford Escape Owner Guide ( 5W-20 )

With engine oil filter change

The 2.0 liter four cylinder engine takes ( 4.5 U.S. quarts of 5W-20 engine oil )

The 3.0 liter " Duratec " V6 engine takes ( 5.5 U.S. quarts of 5W-20 engine oil )

There is no button or lever on this model, simply use the bump out on the rear of the gas door

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Click on the link below

Click on Owner Guides

The owner Guide ( which includes the fuse panel diagram ) can be viewed online