Ford Escape XLS

The 2003 escape has a timing belt - but it is not the sort of belt that can cause havoc and internal damage to the engine if it breaks. If it breaks, the engine simply won't run until you replace the broken belt - but the engine won't slam into itself - as it were.

According to the 2000 Ford Ranger Owner Guide :

With engine oil filter change :

The 2.5 liter four cylinder engine takes ( 4.3 liters / 4.5 U.S. quarts of 5W-30 )

A little late to the party; however, I think I’m just in the nick of time to save someone time and $$. The CORRECT answer, per the manual is: 33lbs/ft for all trim levels (ex. DX, LX), with the exception of the EX that only gets 29lbs/ft.

Quite easily take off the air breather tube then there is a cone shaped part with a connector on top at the back of the engine rightby the accelerator cable 2 10mm bolts hold it on take off the 2 bolts and the valve comes off

Vacuum leak is one cause.

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Another possible cause may be a bad Idle Air Control Valve (IAC Valve).

Your car should Idle, once the engine is at operating temperature, between 680-750 RPM. If the engine idles below this range with no appliances on, i.e. Air Conditioning, Fan or Window Heat, then your IAC Valve may have gone bad.

SUBMITED: Friday, 03JUN11

The 2009 Ford Escape has a 5-speed manual.

it is located on the left of the oil filler cap.Pull the vacumm hose of and turn counter clockwise,then pull out.

Hair clogs it up. Every 3 mos or so, pour draino or something like it down the drain. the debris is exactly that. its hair or other stuff that floated up when the trap backed up.

If the radiator is not being pressurized from exaust than it should. As long as the coolant is going out of the system either in the oil or out the exaust it has always worked for me. If exaust is getting into the coolant the liquid glass has no chance to plug the leak. With the engine cold, take the radiator cap off and crank the motor. You will know quickly if it will work. Water either shoots out the radiator or doesn't.

A HEGO sensor indicating lean at the end of a test is trying to correct for an over-rich condition. The test fails when the fuel control system no longer detects switching for a calibrated amount of time.

* Remove the wheel cover or hub cap.Remove the cotter pin * Break the hub nut loose with a socket and large breaker bar NOTE: If the socket will not fit through the opening in the center of the wheel install the spare * Loosen the lug nuts raise and support car securely on jackstands.Remove the wheel and drain the transaxle lubricant. * Detach the stabilizer bar link(s) from the control arm(s) * Separate the lower control arm from the steering knuckle.Now remove the driveaxle/hub nut * Swing the knuckle/hub assembly out (away from the car) until the end of the driveaxle is free of the hub.If the driveaxle splines stick in the hub tap on the end of the driveaxle with aplastic hammer.Carefully pry the inner CV joint from the transaxle using a large screwdriver or prybar positioned between the CV joint housing and the transaxle housing.Support the outer end of the driveaxle with a piece of wire to avoid unnecessary strain on the inner CV joint * Support the CV joints and carefully remove the driveaxle from the vehicle

r Try egunparts

Actually, not at all, they are different size, plus the engine will not produce enough torque to the transmission

When i get a car in the shop with the complaint that it dies in wet or damp weather, i normally find a bad ignition coil.

To test, lift the hood and start the car at night and spray water from a mist bottle onto the engine looking for sparks. You may see electrical arcs coming from the ignition coil or the spark plug wires.

Remember not to soak the motor or the spark will ground and you may not see it, just mist the motor and keep an eye out for sparks.

Wait a bit before you spray the motor for your eyes to adjust to the dark, that helps, and be very careful of moving parts in the dark they are harder to see. Be cautious.

On 4-cylinder engines, the cylinders are numbered 1-2-3-4 from front to back. 6-cylinder engines are numbered the same way, front to back; passenger side of engine are 1-2-3; driver;s side of the engine 4-5-6. Front is toward the front grille and back is toward the firewall.

This could be a short circuit in your remote. Put your remote out of range of the vehicle and see if the problem persists. If so, check all of your doors for a loose or sticking sensor switch. Beyond that, you will have to check all your wiring for a short. But hopefully, you just need to clean your remote, or buy a new one.

where ever you think

oil is emulisifieing,drive the car at the speed limit on highway for 25,30 miles at a time, this will get the oil up to correct operating temp.

No. A car with only 125 miles should not need the transmission fixing. It should have been done ages ago, under the guarantee but presumably it is too late for that now. You can always try - get some media folk on your side: car with exceptionally low milage and all that!

It is one of the solenoid past your battery on the left side I'm not sure which on or if both but those two solenoids are part of the 4x4 system

Where your license plate is on the back. If you hold the hatch back door at eye level you will see a black release button that you slide to the left if your replacing the passenger rear and it's kinda tricky because you have to slide it as you are pulling it out.( I used a screw driver to help me pull it out) If you are doing the drivers rear license lite ( I had to unscrew the screws that are in the way because it wouldn't let me slide it enough to pull the socket out. But if you go look at it you'll see what I am talking about. Hope this HELPS :)

On a completely empty system that has been flush out, it will hold 10 ounces of oil and 1 pound and 14 ounces of R134a freon..........

It depends which country you are referring to.

The precise law would be codified within transport regulations.