Ford Escort GT

Yes, the head gasket can blow several ways. Take the radiator cap off with the engine cold. Fill it and crank the motor. If water/coolant blows out of the radiator it's time for a head job. If water is going out the exaust you can probably fix the problem for about $7. I have fixed several different cars with bad heads. Subaru, 350 Chevy, Nissan PU. There are several brands available of liquid glass. Comes in either a bottle or can. Clear liquid on top and copper on the bottom. Follow the instructions and it will very likely fix the problem and if it doesn't you are only out $7. As long as water is going out the exaust, or even into the oil, as long as the radiator is not being pressurized from the exaust it should fix it.

Chances are you have a bad wire or plug causing it ; It is easy for a weak plug or wire to hit without a load ,so if it is time for a tune-up I would replace the wire set and plugs. Check your cap and rotor also. I hope this helps you. Mark Mark thanks for the help. New wires did the trick. Truck runs great. Thanks again!!!!

there is a sensor on the brake (so the pedal has to be pushed to shift from park), a cable interlock on the ignition switch (so the key has to be in the run position to shift from park) the interlock solenoid is located at the front of the shifter mount (under the plastic console piece) where it meets the body. there should be a small access panel about the size of a golf ball on the drivers side of the center console. Just below where the drivers knee would be. Take out the screw, pop out the panel, stick your finger (or screwdriver) in the hole. You are feeling for a small plastic rectangle, and is spring loaded. this is the manual release. !!DONT FORGET TO SET THE PARKING BRAKE!! Push the plastic piece toward the front of the vehicle to unlock the shifter. gently, and slowly pull the shifter out of park. I say slowly because you dont want your finger getting caught in anything.

Clean it out!! water will not hurt an alternator but Antifreeze will breakdown the varnish on the Stator windings! Oils is bad but Antifreeze is worse.

If its the same as a 1993 model its on the sterring column right above where the pedals are and a bear to get to.. there are 2 screws make sure you disconnect the battery.

how many horsepower

On a 1.9 L. engine it is on the back of the oil pan.

2wd or 4wd 2wd I'll say about 31 possibly 32 dependds on ride height and tonnage, 4wd again depending on tonnage and ride height 33-34in

" regular " unleaded , 87 octane

No. It usually means that you need something for your headache!!

Seriously...The fuel shutoff switch is a safety item that turns off the electric fuel pump in case of a sudden impact (like hitting someone from behind). If the car will not run and this switch has been tripped, it just needs to be reset once you verify that everything in the fuel delivery system is OK.

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I had a Sony CD player that the Radio worked for 5 minutes and then would stop. I received an "ATT ON" message. To fix this I pulled my Sony deck and unplugged the cable harness, it must have reset the unit. It has not happenend since I did that. Have a nice day. I have owned Sony head units before, and can tell you with 100% certainty that the problem is not in the harness or any type of reset switch. You need to buy a different brand head unit. Sony is good, but ALWAYS faulty somehow.

I'm assuming you mean at the BACK of the wheel. There will be 2 'Torx' screws at the bottom of the holes (there were in my wife's 406). The holes are quite deep and the screws are difficult to see.

ive just removed mine.its a little tricky but make sure you remove or disconnect your battery first.there is 2 small holes to the rear of the housing.i used 2 very thin but long flat screwdrivers.push them both in and if you push them both to the direction of the windows feeling your way you will find that they are spring loaded.keep at it,took me quite a while,whilst gently pulling the airbag towards you.eventually it will give and removes the airbag so you can gain access to the steering wheel locking nut.im guessing your changing the indicator stalk which is the most common problem on 307's 51 onward.hope this helps.

you may also be lucky enought to find a access panel beneath the rear seat. Good Luck

I'm answering my own question because I found the answer to it, and someone else may have the same problem. This escort is a 1991 escort pony and it must have had this problem for a while because someone else was driving it and it has 331,000 miles on it. I noticed one day sitting in traffic that the fan wasn't coming on and the "check coolant" light kept coming on, and previously had realized the temp gauge was not moving. I wasn't sure if it was a wiring problem, fuse, relay, or maybe the computer got a little wet when the heater core started leaking. The possibility of the sensors not getting a good ground also crossed my mind because over time some of the sensors that use a ground through some sort of temperature unit may corrode and lose continuity. I had read somewhere that the heater core had a sender unit near it, and I believed this by reading another blog, but I replaced the heater core looking for this connection and never found it realizing that that wasn't true. I finally got the car back together with the new heater core and ran the car and there was heat, but no fan or temperature gauge working as usual. I knew then that the cheapest way to possibly fix the problem may be to put try and replace the sender units behind the intake manifold next to the battery that are on the same coolant passage next to each other. I went to the auto parts store and it only cost me $24 for both of the sensors. I proceeded to change the sensors. I decided to change one at a time and see if that specific one changed anything. I replaced the larger one first with the "plug in", and I didn't get any change in the temp gauge, or the fan. I then decided to put the old larger "plug in" sensor back in and change the other smaller "one wire" one. I didn't get any change this time either. By doing this I was trying to figure out which one was the problem, and I also checked the resistance on the new "plug in" unit. I read somewhere the resistance cold on the larger "plug in" sensor should be 500 ohms. I checked the new unit cold and it was 30,000 or 30k ohms. The smaller "one wire" unit acts like a switch to my belief. I was about to give up and engineer a aftermarket temp gauge, and temp sensor for the fan relay. I decided to replace both units and when I started the car a miracle happened...!!!! The fan came on!! I still wasn't receiving a signal to the temperature gauge and the fan was staying on. I then believed that the computer may need to be reset. I took the negative battery cable off for about 30 seconds and reconnected it. I then restarted the car... When I restarted the car, the fan had cut off and the temp gauge was working!!!!! I left the car running to bring it up to temperature and when it approached the "hot" mark on the gauge, another miracle happened!!! I had the temperature gauge working and the fan working!!!!!! If you have the problems with your 1991 escort, it may be that both sensor units need replacing like mine.

I use a "C" clamp but a big set of channel lock pliers works good too.

A unique tool used to transport commercial and business associates by ground. Using various high velocity components, is burns Gasoline, Diesel or Electricity as fuel to propel itself, thus the name "Auto-(self) Mobile (motion)".

Jack up the RF corner of the vehicle and remove the RF wheel. Remove the front motor mount located on the right fender apron and support the engine by the oil pan using a floor jack with a block of wood(You will now be able to jack the engine up and down as you need to). Remove the serpentine belt and if there is a belt tensioner in the way of the timing cover, remove it too. Remove the crankshaft pulley and remove the timing cover. Remove the old belt, and it is recommended that you replace the water pump at this time as well. Line up the crankshft timing mark (the keyway will be pointing straight up), and line up the camshaft timing mark(an arrow cut into one of the windows of the gear lines up witha dot on the cylinder head). Install the new belt ad reaasemble in the reverse order as disassembly. i had found eaven with the mount disconected i coud not lower the moter far enough to get anything on the crank pully bolt so i ended up cutting the weel well and bending it up so i could.

first of all be sure you have a "jaw type puller" a 2 or 3 jaw puller should work and a "torx" bit set usually between T35 to T50. and you will also need a hydraulic shop press, this is the only way to remove the cartridge bearing from the hub and the knuckle. if you dont have access to a shop press find a local automotive machine shop they should be able to press out the old bearing and press in the new bearing they usually charge about 30-45 bucks to do this do NOT attempt to use a hammer to remove the bearing, doing this will only cause the cartrige bearing to "mushroom out" and with every blow it will become increasingly more difficult until it seizes. How to change front wheel bearings on a 95 escort. first jack the car up and place a jackstand underneath the car then remove the wheel, once the wheel is off get a old srewdriver and stick it in the rotor so that it will not rotate. then use a hammer and chissel or stake to raise the flat spot on the big axle nut that prevents it from loosening, you will need a large socket with a "breaker bar" then remove the big nut that is in the center of the hub, these are usually torqued to 170 ft lbs. so it will not come off easy you might have to get a steel pipe to get more leverage on the breaker bar. then you'll need to remove the tie rod nut be sure to pull out the cotter pin first. once the nut is off the tie rod end will most likely be stuck you can use a hammer on the underside of the tierod end body but dont hit the threaded portion unless the nut is threaded on part way to protect the threads. if you still cant remove the tierod get a "pickle fork" from an auto parts store then insert the pickle fork between the tierod and steering knuckle and hammer until it pops off *note if you use the pickle fork method you will need a new tie rod end as the fork will destroy the protective rubber grease seal allowing dirt to wear out the tierod end. and you will have to have the front end alligned by a professional shop. After the tierod is off remove the brake caliper bolts using a "torx" bit with a rachet, you can let the caliper hang on the hose but you should use a piece of wire to hang the caliper out of your way while you work. then slide the rotor off the hub now get your jaw puller and attach it to the hub flange and center of the axle and tighten until the axle is pushed through the splines. now remove the 18mm bolts from the strut where it meets the steering knuckle, then unbolt the balljoint from the lower control arm after you remove the knuckle assemly take it to a maching shop and bring your new bearing so they can press it in. installation is reverse of removal be sure to grease the axle spines before reassembly so its easier to push through the hub. and when tightening the big axle nut torque it to 170 ft lbs if you have a torque wrench if not get it really tight! and be sure to use your chissle to stake in that flat spot so the nut wont come loose

I was just looking at my neighbor's car which we think has a bad switch. It looks like once you have the top cover off, there are four Phillips screws and 2 torx that are on a steering shaft guide. Once they are removed, it seems like it should come off. The plug is on the left side of the steering wheel. I might know more tomorrow. Good Luck! "E"-Chgo

put it in neutral then try to start it.

when i spin the motor the fuel cut out light comes on. The injectors are getting fuel but the car want hit a lick

You will only have high speed fan