Ford Escort GT

There are 3 bolts. 1 on the top and 2 on the bottom. Take them out and take loose the battery cable and the solenoid wire. You will have to take the battery and tray out to get it out the top. Steering rack keeps you from taking it out the bottom.

Actually it is located below the clutch pedal. There are two screws that hold it in place. It is also used to adjust the height of the pedal. The clutch pedal ignition switch is located above the clutch pedal. It does not have a "neutral safety" swith. It uses a TR(Trasmission Range) sensor that tells the PCM what gear you have selected, so it can properly shift the 4EAT transmission, and also operates the back up lights. The TR sensor is located on top of the transmission, and is fairly easy to access. It it is a standard like mine, it does have a neutral safety switch, without it, you cant start your car, it is located at the top of your clutch pedal inside the car.

The 91 and newer car you fill though the speedo cable

Usually on the rear upper radiator

Disconnect both heater hoses at the firewall in the engine comaprtment. Use a piece of pipe about 1-1/2 inches long that will fit inside the hoses you disconnected. Place each end of the hoses over the piece of pipe and clamp with two hose clamps.

The Crankshaft spins twice for every single turn of the Camshaft. so it would be a 2:1 ratio.

Yes it does. I had a 1990 Escort GT. It was a lot of fun to drive..Fast!

my granddaughter has a 1997 GEO prism LSI. i need to know how to remove the ignition switch

Should be pretty easy. Usually every panel is held together by just a pressure type of latch. You need to find where the panel "gives" and then use a screwdriver or some type of flat tool too pry this off. You also need to be careful because this usually some type of "refined" cardboard, not too heavy but will break. Apply equal pressure to both sides of latch and pull.

no you don't have to. you will need to remove the top steering colum cover and bring down the bottom one just a bit. there are 4 screws holding it together. remove those, separate the covers. now just remove the 2 small screws holding the switch in, slide the switch out and disconnect the connectors.

There will be a great loss in power especially up hills and if there is a head gasket leak there will be a loud puttering sound from the head gasket area.

You may also notice the problem gets worse as you drive the vehicle.

Check the reset switch probably located on the drivers side rear in the trunk area. The switch may be corroded or shot.

use a pair of needle nose pliers the opposite way and spread them out on the bezel face where the key goes. turn the ring counter clockwise and the lock will fall out the back.

Most tire pressures are 35 psi (pounds Per square inch). But may sometimes even go up to 40 psi. It is best to check the side of the tire. It should be stamped in the rubber around the rim in little black letters.

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That is the MAXIMUM cold tire inflation pressure

Remove horn ring or button (twist to remove)

Remove center bolt on steering wheel

Mark location of wheel in relation to steering column shaft for proper re-install

Get and attach a steering wheel puller

Tighten nut on wheel puller until steering wheel "pops" off

it can rotate in reverse, but it might not charge.

Poor answer above. In fact, dozens of real-world examples can be found on the net proving that alternators can run either direction with virtually no difference at all in output or function. If rotated the "wrong" direction with respect to the built in fan a minor reduction in cooling could eventually affect performance, but only if the charging situation involved a prolonged operation at the highest amperage output. This would typically only happen if the alternator was being used externally to an automobile, such as running off a lawn mower engine for charging a large battery bank, etc.

brake cable needs to be replaced or adjusted

The torque settings for the caliper pins on a Ford Escort is 21 ft-lbs. For the caliper anchor bolts, the setting is 98 ft-lbs.

Yes. On the underside of the dash panel, approximately above your left knee, is a black female connector plug. This is called the ALDL plug, and is where techs plug in their diagnostic instruments. But GM was kind to us poor-boys, and built in a method to extract the basic fault codes that the car's engine computer (ECM) sets. Here's the procedure:

You want to jumper pins A and B. That should be the two upper right pins as you look at the plug.

1. With power off, jumper pin A to pin B (A bent metal paper clip works fine.)

2. Turn the ignition to ON but DO NOT start the vehicle.

3. The Service Engine Soon (SES) light should flash code 12 (1 flash, pause, 2 quick flashes)

4. After a longer pause, code 12 should repeat two more times.

5. If there are any codes stored in the ECM they will follow Code 12.

5a. Codes are two digit, and are indicated by flashes of the SES light. For instance three blinks--pause--four blinks = code 34. One blink--pause--six blinks=Code 16. If multiple codes are set, they will flash lower numbers first, and repeat the sequence of numbers several times. If you Google "GM OBD 1 Codes" there are many sites with lists of what the codes mean. GM says you should address the problems indicated by the lower code numbers first.

6. If no other codes have been stored then Code 12 will continue to repeat until the jumper is disconnected.

7. Incidentally, this diagonostic should also cause the cooling fan to run, testing the wiring, the fan relay, and the cooling fan (radiator) motor.

Good Luck !

the float in youer tank is sticken check fuel guage sending unit

valvoline 10w40 It is recommened by the Ford Dealership, that you run any oil at 5w30 weight, in all seasons. I personally use Castrol 5w30. Only oil that increased my gas mileage. I don't recommend using Valvoline, after managing a store in Rogers, MN. You get to know the inside secrets of your companies oils. As said above, any 5w30 oil. Actually now i believe for has back specd the 5w20 to be used in this engine, but im not 100% sure. call your local dealer if you want and find out.

Generally speaking the flasher unit is on the fuse box.

Check all your fuses inside the car. The horn fuse is usually labeled.

In most cases, either dirt in the coolant lines or transmition cooler portion of the radiator caused a premature failure, or the torgue converter was failing or dirty and not replaced when the transmition was rebuilt are the causes. In some rare occastions, the rebuild was not done properly or parts that should have been replaced and where not replaced is the cause. The only other option is that the computer or wiring harness to the transmition is failing or damaged, as the shifting of the transmition from gear to gear is controled by the computer. This can cause a pre-mature failure. The only other cause would be right out of the gun, so your situation doesn't sound likely, is the shop forgot to re-fill the transmition with ATF "Fluid". This sounds crazy, but it's far too easy to do, but the transmition usually won't even move the car at that point, so it is usually caught right away not by the owner some 40K miles later.