Ford Escort LX

Good question.

It is on the front of the bell housing of the transmission. To find it trace a "brake line" fitting from the firewall to the bottom of the transmission bell housing.

I had a VW Jetta that had a problem with overheating. It ended up being the thermostat had gone bad so the fan never "kicked on."

A car can over heat if there isnt enough antifreeze in the radiator or a bad thermostat or if your fan isnt working properly or is bad

its located under the dash on the brake pedal has a clip holding it in place and a connecter that goes to it really easy to replace just look under the dash

Did you reset the fuel pump relay? Do you mean check the cutoff switch in the rear hatch? Yes, it's not popped up. I also tried pulling out the harness and jumping the connections with a paperclip. This shuts off the cutout light on the dash but the car still won't start. I checked spark, gapped the plugs, changed the fuel filter and PCV valve. Still no-go. I think it's an electrical issue but I'm not sure what! I checked all the fuses in the car, none seem to be blown, checked the two under the rear seat as well. Fuel pump seems to work when I turn the ignition to "on" as I can hear it click and whir up.

Route a long piece of string as the belt would be routed. Pull it taught, then tie it off. Cut the string and measure it.

Most brands of belts are supplied in sleeves that explain the relation between belt size in length. Consider that you need a belt one size SHORTER than your string, as the tensioner was not loaded when you tied the knot.

I just measured my car with out the ac comp. It was 82 1/2 inches. I bought a belt size 81.75" from a AutoZone. Works perfect. Just no AC! Had to remove the water holder for the Radiator to install Belt.

In most states, fault lies with the person who had the "last clear chance" to avoid the accident. If you saw the car backing up at you and just sat there and let it hit you, it's your fault. If you saw the car backing up and thought "I can get past them" and instead hit them, it's your fault.

In the back of the car, on the left (at least it is in my 2001 Focus) there are a couple wiring connector "blocks" behind the carpet panel, with all the wiring connections from the rear of the car. Start checking there. Possibly you knocked a wire loose by piling a lot of junk in the back (trunk) of the car. Let us know if you find the problem.

If you use a tripod.

.054 inch , according to fordparts.com

2" outer diamiter

Trouble code P0715 means:Input/turbine speed sensor circuit malfunction

1. Jack up the front of the car and support it on jackstands.

2. Take off the left wheel.

3. Use a hammer and a chisel or punch to raise the staked part of the drivaxle retaining nut out of the groove.

4. Remove the nut from the axle.

5. Remove the splash shield from the side you are working on.

6. Tap the end of the drive axle with a hammer and punch to free it from the hub.

7. Detatch the ball joint from the steering knuckle.

8. Turn the steering wheel all the way towards the side you are working on.

9. Pull the hub and knuckle out while you push the driveaxle out of the hub. It may help to turn the steering wheel the other way now, moving the hub outward.

10. Swivel the end of the drive axle forward and support it with a piece of wire.

11. Support the engine with a jack and a block of wood positioned beheath the oil pan.

12. Remove the transaxle crossmember.

12b. Remove the longitudinal member (4 big bolts and 4 locknuts, all 17mm) from the front mount to the back mount.

13. Place a drain pan under the transmission to catch the fluid.

14. Insert a prybar between the inner CV joint and the transmission case.

15. Pry the inner half axle out of the transmission. Where to do this most effectively? probably with the pry bar inserted from underneath and back of the axles. it helps to strike the pry bar to overcome the circlip on the shaft.

16. Beware of damaging the circumferential ridge on the cv joint housing.

I have a book on 1994 ford escort i could fax you all diagrams in it if you wish.can reach me at eddecarter@yahoo.com.

I will venture an answer here based solely on my knowledge of the 90s SCs, as I own only the in-line 6-cylinder SC300s, not SC400s, but there is a lot of design similarity and commonality. If you're looking for the fuse boxes on an early to late 90s SC400, see the question "Where are the fuses for a 92 SC300?" (or something like that.) I bet they're in the same place. Under the hood, driver side, and floorboard driver side under the dash near left foot clutch / brake placement behind the panel.

Boy, you dare question the computer brain of your car? It means either the bulb wasn't completely connected on install, jiggling around to replace it you loosend another, or another is still out. Look hard. OR try this:

its called the multifunction switch. the contacts can get dirty and corroded and lightly burnt and it changes the resistance of the switch. this will not fix the "lamp out" warnining though. the Front Control Module monitors the continuity of the wiring for the headlamps, brake lamps(not including the 3rd), park and turn lamps. take it to a dealer and they can retreive codes out of the FCM to tell which bulb has the open. even if the bulb is working when you check your ligths, you can hit bumps and a broken filament can vibrate and lose contact quickly and start working again by the time you check it.

under the driver seat; black box bolted to frame; two plugs-one for passenger one for driver

Wrong mixture make sure you have pre diluted/mixed coolant/antifreeze.

According to the Gates website ( they make timing belts etcetera )

(Yes ) both the DOHC and SOHC 2.0 liter four cylinder engines in a 1999

Ford Escort ( ARE INTERFERENCE ENGINES )

I believe the lack of oil changes would have a detrimental effect on the performance and efficiency of any engine not just a 1.8 ltr Diesel engine.

The reason for this is because the engine requires a good consistency of lubricant ( oil ) and to do this effectively, the correct consistency of oil is used ie 20 / 40. The oil used gets thinner over mileage and thus loses its lubricating effect, this results in the engine becoming "stiffer" to move and requires more effort to move the engine. This results in more fuel required to move the engine and the engine not being as "free" to move if it had a good consistency of oil in it.

The airbag is disabled by disconnecting the negative battery terminal for at least 5 minutes and leaving it disconnected.

Google on "Ford Escort Service and Repair Manual - Haynes Ebook". It describes the process and includes a photo. I did this and I think the only thing I disconnected was the air intake hose b/c the sensor was on the firewall side of the manifold. And this was on a 1993 1.9L SEFI. Very simple once you find it. But is did not solve my fan problem. Now I'm looking at the fan relay.

The casting block plug is located below the exhaust manifold in the middle of the block.

I am also trying to figure out the idle adjustment for a 1994 Ram 1500. I'm sure it has to do with tightening the cables which are loose on mine. The cables control the amount of air getting into the engine it seems and are right next to the air filter. There is a threaded end that pushes against the moving piece but there doesn't seem to be an adjusable end to it. It's really messing with my mind. Anyway, I think the cables just loosen over time and they may need to be replaced. Mine are very loose on a 1994. If you follow those cables to where they connect, you may be able to adjust it somehow inside the box. Let me know if this helps and if you figure out yours, your answer might be able to help me as well so keep me posted!

This is a very common problem. Most often the reason that a heater fan won't run on one of the speeds?æis corroded contacts in the wiring harness.