Ford Explorer

4" x 6"

You can remove the fuse that controls the dome lights and windows when you are not driving the vehicle. It is a 15 amp fuse located in the third row 3rd down. (look in your owners manual for the exact location). This will solve the problem temporarily.

On a 1996 Ford Explorer :

The Powertrain Control Module ( PCM ) power relay is located in the

Power Distribution Box ( which is " live " ) located in the engine compartment

near the brake fluid reservoir

It is one of the three LARGE relays

It is in the 2nd row from the drivers side of the vehicle and

it is the 1st LARGE relay from the FRONT

It sounds like a Brake Sensor is bad.

You can take it to The Dealer or NAPA or anywhere that can run a Diagnostics check on it and it should confirm this or show another prossible cause.

If you want to do the work yourself then you can go somehwere like AutoZone and they can probably run the diagnostic check (Just a reader that plugs into a plug under your dash and gives a certain code for your make and model and then they cross reference it with a book and it tells the tech what the problem allegedly is) for you at no charge. I say "Allegedly" because it isn't always the "be all" "end all" solution.

Browning Auto-5 made in 1972. You can go to www.browning.com to get a downloadable PDF manual. sales@countrygunsmith.net

Use a pair of pliers or similar tool to jump across the trigger(small) wire and the large cable connected to the starter

Yes

The computer has detected a condition that indicates a fault with the ABS/Traction system. Typically that's caused by a wheel sensor problem, but it can also be caused by a faulty connector, peripheral device or the computer.

The above is the shop or garage answear. How about telling us how to fix the problem , besides replacing the computer or wheel sensor? How do we check these things?

Sometimes can be as simple as a short circuit in the rear break lights or a faulty connection in the break lights.

You can start checking the break light system. Then the sensors and finally the compter.

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The ownners manual does detail the process...do you have it?

yes, amongst other things

The fuel pump shut off switch ( inertia switch ) is in the front passenger footwell

behind the kick panel on a 1999 Mercury Mountaineer

It's in front of the engine passenger side all the way down behind the a/c compressor.

You will probably find it is a mercury switch in the wiring bundle.

In a Ford Explorer :

The 4.0 liter V6 engine ( both the Over Head Valve and the Single Over Head

Cam versions ) have always used :

( 5W-30 , with engine oil filter change , 4.7 litres / 5.0 U.S. quarts )

In the duck compartment

In theory, its a lifetime and sealed system. In reality, MB absolutely wants this to be a dealer service on many of their cars. But to say only MB can do it is not really correct. (A filter, pan gasket, etc service at any transmission shop is possible...but requires a fill to the right level).

I know your going to find this hard to believe...I did....but its true:

You can fill through the dipstick tube...and of course, check the level there.

You use the dipstick like any other car.

But, they don't come with a dipstick!

You've got to buy one for it....about $50, or go to a shop that has one. The fluid is very expensive....about $90 a fill.

This is just an overview - for the V6. A haynes manual, even from the library, is recommended for all of the torque specs and little stuff (and there's a lot of little stuff...

Open the hood. Look at the intake and the accessories, like the AC, the alternator, and the power steering pump. You can hardly see the valve covers! All of this stuff has to come out first. So drain the radiator and engine oil, get some duct tape and a marker, and mark and remove the first layer of electrical connections. Remove the air filter and the hose it connects to. Remove the alternator, and the AC compressor (don't disconnect the hoses, just tie it out of the way). The power steering pump and the big aluminum bracket have to go. Then the intake plenum (plastic) and the EGR system. The coil packs are held on by some exhaust manifold studs. Mark the wires to keep them in order. The valve covers come off now, then the intake manifold. Go under the car and remove the exhaust pipes from the manifolds. Remove the rocker arms and the push rods (keep in order, too.) Now the heads can come off.
Have them checked for flatness by a machine shop, this may be the cause of the head gasket problem. The machine shop can cut a little off the bottom and give you a new flat surface.

Now is a good time to take care of any noisy lifters - the heads have to come off to change them.

Buy a "head set" gasket kit. All of the gaskets that came apart will have to be replaced. And new head bolts are required - they are stretched during installation and only work once.

Everything goes back together just like it came apart. Take extra care with the intake gaskets- they are very sensitive to torque and will leak water into your engine if anything is less than perfect. Most of the gaskets go in dry, but the gasket kit has directions for using silicone on the end rails and around the water ports.

Futuring is a way to look at past events or trends to predict or prevent future events. Governments use it, businesses use it, anybody can use it. We sure don't want history to repeat itself.

Edward Cornish explained what futuring is in his book Futuring: the exploration of the future.

There is a fault. Could be as simple as low fluid, but that usually lights the "BRAKE" indicator. The ABS goes through a startup check which will light the light if there isn't an adequate response on ABS function. The ABS unit probably needs to be repaired or replaced if it isn't low fluid or doesn't clear after a few starts. There could also be a problem in one of the brake lines or calipers. UNless you are a mechanic, I'd take it to a dealer or certified brake repair place. If the ABS unit light is on, it is likely the ABS will not work. You'll still have brakes, just no ABS. BUT - I'd get it checked out to make sure the car is safe.

I had the ABS light stay on in my 99 Old Intrigue and it cost me $1366.03 to fix it at the dealer. Obviously they just replaced it instead of tryin to fix it. That's what dealers do because time is money. This was the breakdown: GM Part: VLV K REM (18060807) Price:$654.41, GM Part: Core Sale (18060807) Price:$56.00, GM Part: Core Retu Price $56.00, GM Part: Motor Kit (18024482) Price: $371.82, GM Part: Fluid Price: $8.38 Labor:$259 Tax:$72.42 This was to install a bake modulator and ABS Motor Pack.

As far as I know the GEM ( Generic Electronic Module ) controls the 4x4 on the 1995

Ford Explorer and I believe that is in the center stack of the dash behind and to the left

of the radio

The 2012 Ford Explorer has a 3.5 L base engine size.