Ford Explorer

There is a fix for broken blend doors being marketed. It avoids having to remove much of the dashboard and disconnecting the a/c system.

I haven't done it, but the concept looks good - and there are a number of videos showing how their repair works. heatertreater.net

Answer

The very common problem of a failed blend door actuatoris extensively covered in the "Related Question" below.

There is a blend door repair method at the Automotive Forums Windstar section. The heater core has to come out and some cutting of the 'plenum' around the door.

The thread I've linked below includes a number of photos and heating/cooling diagrams.

TIP: "Right-click, save" the images to be able to get nice clear printouts of them.

The thread is a little short on the step 1, step 2, type detail, but will continue searching for other threads that may have it.

An excellent start, and certainly helps you get an idea of exactly what you're dealing with.

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History and Root Cause of Blend Door Failures

On earlier automobiles there was generally a slide lever on the HVAC control panel(remember?). This slide lever was connected by a cable to the blend door and you had the control to slide the lever to full heat, full AC, or anything in between. Â In the 90's most automobile manufacturers moved from manual blend door control to mechanized computer control.

Generically, the HVAC system operates by providing air flow that can be directed through the AC evaporator and the Heater Core. The AC evaporator is cooled by the engine driven compressor and a flow of refrigerant, and the Heater Core is heated by a flow of hot radiator fluid through the core. The air flow is usually directed through the evaporator core and to the blend door where the air can be directed down two different paths to the vent system. One path goes directly to the vents, and the other path is directed through the heater core.

For AC, the compressor is on and air is directed by the blend door directly into the vent system. For heat, the compressor is off and air is diverted through the heater core. These are the two extremes, and the system can split the amount of air flowing down the two paths and control on/off of the compressor to achieve any desired temperature between the two extremes. When the blend door fails, control over which path the air flow takes is lost and dependent on the design of the system and where the broken door falls, you will lose heat, AC, or both.

When the manufacturers went to electronic control, different variations of a stepper motor were deployed to provide fine control over the position of the blend door. Some have variable resistance sensors built into the motor, or time measurements to gauge how long to run the motor to get to a desired position, or counting commutator clicks. Independent of the method used for fine control, the methodology requires that the system "knows" the extents of movement. The system has to measure where the door stops against the two end points of movement. The computer does this by driving the motor to a stall point and measuring a voltage surge or lack of change in the position monitor input. The DC motors are geared to move slowly with a great deal of force. The root cause of most blend door problems is the over-stress of this calibration process, and the plastic doors break over time like bending a coat hanger back and forth. The computer system generally goes through this calibration routine every 20 times that the car is started. Time-to-failure is not a traditional mileage, age, or driving habit function, but just how many times the car is started. A pizza delivery guy that stops the car for each delivery will fail much faster than someone commuting to work once a day.

Automobiles were not built with this failure mechanism in mind and generally the process of replacing the blend door is involved and expensive. The usual dealer fix is to remove the steering column, pull the dash panel, evacuate and disconnect the AC system, drain and disconnect the radiator, and then remove the HVAC plenum(heater box). Once the box is out, it's fairly simple to open it and replace the cheap plastic door, and then put the whole thing back together hoping you don't screw up something else. HeaterTreater TM has developed processes for replacing the blend door without having to remove the dash and heater box. Cuts are made into the box in non visible areas with a Dremel tool, and the blend door is replaced with precision machined metal components. The process results in an easy, cheap fix and replacement components that are designed to outlast the automobile(much stronger than OEM plastic).

To date, thousands of our HeaterTreater rm repair kits have been installed in multiple different models with 100% installation success and correct operation. We are intent on maintaining superior customer service and would appreciate your consideration of our products.

Actually removing the temperature blend door is a veryinvolved procedure.

Reference a repair manual:

• Library (free)
• Buy one - about $18
• On-line resources - Autozone.com has a FREE and awesome online repair guide

first check your balance on you tires local tire shop will usually balance new tires for free or if you have a reciept from where you purchased the tires some tire shops will balance for free if you bought the tires there if tires are not balanced it causes the vechicle to shake at about 30 mph if that's not it i don't know

Not all Scion tC's come with this feature though. You may need to have andafter-market one installed.

or

The remote engine starter is operated by pushing the `lock` button on the keyless entry fob in a quick, three-step sequence: (1) push and release `lock` button; (2) push and release `lock` button again; (3) then push and hold `lock` button for three seconds-and the engine starts. The engine can also be stopped remotely by pushing the `unlock` button once, or by pushing and holding the lock button for two seconds or more.