Ford Explorer

a blown fuse.

Depends on the make and model of the truck.

I am afraid that is impossible, since an Explorer doesn't have a timing belt. It uses an internal timing chain, which you don't service, unless it breaks or is rattling. Are you talking about the accessory drive(fan) belt? If so, there is a spring loaded tensioner that you use a socket wrech to pivot out of the way and remove tension from the belt and change the belt.

WITH MY 98 CAVELIER,I FOUND THE VACUMN LINE TO THE MAP SENSOR

OFF AND I REPLACED IT. NEXT I WENT THROUGH THE GEARS,AND THE E.T.S. LIGHT WENT OUT.THE ENGINE CHECK LIGHT WAS STILL ON AND I

NOTICED I HAD THE LARGE HOSE "CARB TO AIR FILTER OFF" I INSTALLED IT AND THE LIGHT WENT OUT."IT HAS A SENSOR IN IT" SUMMARY IS THE CAR RUNS FINE. LOUIEBELLSON@COMCAST.NET

HERES A BETTER SOLUTION...

instead of wasting money that you don't need to, puh the button on the side of your shift knob. That's the ETS button. It will turn it on.

loosen the clamp holding the hose on to a fitting and pull the hose free.

The Ford keyless entry is a locking system designed for certain Ford vehicles. The system utilizes a numerical keypad on the door or a fob that is carried in the purse or pocket.

The maximum cargo capacity of the 2013 Ford Explorer is 80.7 cu.ft..

The brass float on my son's 1994 explorer leaked and had fuel in it causing to show empty all the time. We had to pull the fuel pump/sending unit out of the gas tank. Had to remove the gas tank to do this. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ A 1992 Ford Explorer has a 15 amp fuse in location # 17 for the fuel gauge according to my Chilton repair manual (Helpfull)

A relay is a switch which opens / or closes a circuit

I believe it is under the Explorer , below the drivers door , mounted on the frame

rail

If you're wanting to just change the bulbs:

HEADLAMP:1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery

2. Remove the headlight housing assembly. Rotate the the retaining ring about 1/8 turn counter-clockwise(viewed from the rear) and slide it off of the base.

3. Pull the bulb sraight out of the socket. (DO NOT rotate the bulb during removal!)

4. Without touching the glass with bare fingers, insert the bulb into the socket. Position the flat on the base up.

5. Align the socket locating tabs with the grooves in the forward part of the plastic base, then push the socket firmly into the base. Make sure the base mounting flange contacts the socket.

6. Slide the retaining ring on. Turn it clockwise until it hits the stop.

7. Re-Install the headlight housing.

8. Connect the electrical connector and test.

9. Be sure and re-align or have the light re-aligned. Most service stations or dealer service depts. will do this free if not for a minimal charge. If you want to do this yourself:

1. Park vehicle 25 feet from a blank wall with gas tank 1/2 full and no large loads onboard.

2. With Masking Tape, tape a vertical line on the wall in reference to the vehicle center line and the centerline of both headlamps.

3. Position a horizontal line on the wall in reference to the centerline of all headlights (may be easier to do with vehicle a couple of inches away from the wall)

4. Starting with the low beams - position the high intensity zone so that it is 2 inches below the horizontal line and 2 inches to the right of the vertical line. Adjustments are made by turning the adjustment screw closet the fender necessary to raise or lower the beam. The pther adjusting screw is used the same way to move the beam left or right.

5. With hi-beams on, the high-intensity zone should be vertically centeres with the exact center just below the horizontal line

PARKING LAMP:

1. Remove the two screws that hold the top of the lamp assembly

2. Pull the assembly straight out to expose the bulb sockets. (On your '97 - it's a separate assemply than the headlights)

3. Turn the socket either direction to align the lugs on the socket with the notches on the housing and pull the socket out.

4. Remove the clip from the socket and pull the bulb straight out of the socket

5. Now follow the steps backwards to install a new parkling lamp.

The instructions make it sound harder than it really is. Should take no more than 15 minutes for the headlight and 5-10 on the parking light. Good Luck!

The relay is under the dash in a relay box that is just right of the steering column. There is tape around it that needs to be removed and then the cover pops off. It's a bit ackward to get at. The window relay is the largesr relay in the box. Part numbers vary by model so pull it first to get the number. I replaced mine for $7 this week and now my windows work. Theye were intermittent before then and also cause the 4WD and 4WD Low lights to flash on and off at times. This seems to be a consistent hint of this relay. The Ford parts departrment was NOT going to confirm that this was the window relay but after I told him I would just replace it rather than paying $100 for thie diagnostic fee he said it controlled the windows plus a whole list of other items. If anybody has a full schematic of this relay box I would love a reference to it.

Good idea - if one is bad the other is soon to follow

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I believe that is at the back / top of the engine

To see the Owner Guide online ( which includes the fuse panel diagram )

www . motorcraft service . com ( no spaces )

Click on Owner Guides

( the fuse and relay section starts on page 227 )

The fuel pump inertia ( shut off ) switch is located in the right front passenger footwell , by the kick panel on your 1996 Ford Explorer

there is a good chance the main vacuum supply line from the engine that feeds the HVAC system is broken or disconnected. Inspect the vacuum lines under the hood.

the sending unit is located near the bottom of the block on the left ( driver side) it is on the same harness as the oil level switch

not hard for the rears you will need to block the front wheels and jack up the rear end support it with jack stands cause ther will be a lot of shaking and yanking should be two bolts holding each shock in i would spary them with PB blaster or wd40 and let them soak for a minute then unbolt and remove the fronts are a little more difficult there is 3 bolts 2 on the bottom and a nut on top u may need a pair of vise grips for the front on the top of the shock there is a part of the shaft that is rectangular put the vise grips there so when you turn the nut on the top side of the shock you can keep the shaft from turning too jack each side of the front end up on the lower controll arm then remove old shocks and replace with new ones make sure you put on all the bushing and washers that come with the shocks or the shocks could fall off while on the road

You could be low on freon, also check your fuses to see if any are blown, or you culd have a bad a/c switch.

if you just pull on it real hard it should just pop out

The 2004 Ford Explorer runs on flex-fuel (FFV).

The 2011 Ford Explorer has a 3.5 L base engine size.