Ford Falcon

no, au falcons run hydraulic lash adjusters, if u have one that is rattling, replace all, cause the others won't be far behind, about 12 bucks each, 12 in all, good luck

most probably the foam in between the two plates in your horn has worn out, happend to my eb, the easy way is to install a few small springs in between the two plates with bits of rubber at the ends of the springs.

You don't the factory one is a part of the system wiring loop remove the old one and the car won't go!

it should take a 5w/30 grade oil for the bf model falcon

fuel, distance to empty

leave key on for 30 minutes everything turned off straight to start after 30 minutes

yeah i can get one, just need year, wagon/sedan, engine size. any wiring diagram in particular.

No, the latest ford thunderbird was produced in 2005. after that, they were discontinued :(

Not too hard. Push in on front of one side of bottom seat cushion (you'll need to push pretty hard) and a clip will release and repeat on other side. You can now lift the cushion up and out. This will reveal two bolts that hold in the seat back. Removing those bolts now allows the back to come out

Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen ( sensor )

the aux shaft your refering to is the shaft which runs of the the timing chain which in turn drives the distributor.

to remove the pedal box the whole dash has to be taken out, absolute pain in the ass

Tape up your oil pick up screen. Steal your kids play dough and put about 3/4-1inch on the screen. Lay down your gaskets. And press on the pan (don't wiggle) pull it back off and cut a cross section and measure it. that's as close as you'll ever get. You'll have your kids playdough back in their hands before their tears hit the floor.

The BA falcon has a power steering speed sensor switch in the high pressure line next to the power steering pump (Where you top up the fluid)

Older switches are grey in colour and newer ones are green, the older one gives lighter steering at low speeds and the newer one gives heavier steering at low speeds, I prefer the lighter feel at parking speeds so I bought that one, both fit, it is a simple 10 min DIY job and cost about $20.00 from Repco, don't buy one from Ford it will costs probably 10 times that

I just checked the lever on mine that switches from fresh air to recirculated , this morning :) The procedure is the same.

You need to get behind the controls to view the connections at the back.

Below the dash on each side of the steering wheel are two rectangular removable bits. On the right hand side, it is the part that houses the 'boot release' button. On the left it is the same shape but without the button. Unscrew these. Look up into the gap left and you will see another screw for each side. Unscrew these too.

You will be removing the black 'lining' that goes around whole dash above the steering wheel. It goes around the airvent control switches as well as the speedometer etc.

You will see all the screws holding those air controls into place. Remove them and slide the compartment out. You can then check if any of the wiring or other bits and pieces have come loose behind your temperature control lever.

It isn't hard but will save some $$$ if you do it instead of the mechanic.CHeers,JO

The best place I've found for these specs are in the manual put out by MOTOR. Great set of manuals. You can find specification in a HAYNES manual as well. You can order a manual for this car at either website. You may even be able to get your local car care associates ie. O'reilly, Autozone, Advance, NAPA to order you a manual. Check your local library for the manual as well. I've used many a manual from the local library to fix a vehicle when in need of a specification. Check for vacuum leaks from vacuum hoses before making any adjustments. Without knowing what specifications you need I'm guessing. Are you are wanting to adjust the needle valve adjustments? Float Adjustment? Needle valve adjustments are Low speed and High speed adjustment. ONe is for Low speed and will affect how the car idles and the other will affect Higher speeds. I've always adjust the low speed side by turning it in till it is hand tight, don't wrench on it or you can destroy the seats. Turn it back out till it's about 2 1/2 turns out, start the car then adjust it till the engine idles without rocking back and forth. For the high speed adjustment I always tighten it hand tight then back it out about 2 1/2 turns and adjust until when I accelerate the engine it accelerates without hesitation from low side to high side. This will get you in a ball park setting. Check for vacuum leaks while you are in there and replace any hoses that are more than 3-5 years old. Most vacuum hoses can be had cheap and cause a lot of retuning for no reason if you have leaks. For the float valve, I've always removed the seat that the float is valve is using and cleaned the screen first. Then I adjust the float so that it will shut off before the top of the float is 1/8 inch from the top of the float bowl. It has worked for me in almost evey carb I've rebuilt. I hope this is helpful.

Sounds like a fuel pump problem, common on EF's. Get an assistant to turn on the ignition while you squeeze the hose connected to the fuel pump. You should feel it pressurise. Also, give the fuel pump a tap with a piece of wood, it may free it up and the car will start. You will need to replace it, I just did mine, $40 from a wreckers. I hope this helps you. Roden

Replace the horn it has batteries in it. Alarm horn is in the left front fender. Pull left front tire and wheel. Move the inner fender and you will see the horn. You may have to find someone with Tech 2 to code the horn and alarm.

make sure you didnt put one of plug wires on the wrong plug if you did it will crank and run but it will run ruff/miss

# If its the same as a EF-EL motor then here is the diagram # Start with the belt around the outside of the * Alternator then on the outside of the * Powersteering then the outside of the * Idle pully then the outside of the * Air conditioner then on the outside of the * Crank shaft then around the crank shaft to the right side of the * Tensioner then around the tensioner to the top of the * water pump then from the water pump back to the bottom of the * Alternator power steering Alternator

Idle

Air Con

Crank shaft

Water pump

Tension # If its the same as a EF-EL motor then here is the diagram # Start with the belt around the outside of the * Alternator then on the outside of the * Powersteering then the outside of the * Idle pully then the outside of the * Air conditioner then on the outside of the * Crank shaft then around the crank shaft to the right side of the * Tensioner then around the tensioner to the top of the * water pump then from the water pump back to the bottom of the * Alternator power steering Alternator

Idle

Air Con

Crank shaft

Water pump

Tension

if its a steel cylinder head its 75ft pond

When setting up the clutch cable i usually pull on the cable at the firewall end so I'm pulling the cable into the engine bay. the nut should sit about 4 mm away from the fire wall. that's usally pretty close.

it is like hunting with a hawk... you send the hawk(or falcon in this case)after prey

Under the hood, find the automatic transmission fluid pipe. Consult your owner's manual if you do not know where this is. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it clean. Reinsert the dipstick and pull it out to check the fluid level. The fluid should be at the "full" line.