Ford Ranger XL

Usually in a removable housing at the engine end of the upper radiator hose

they are good up untill you want to slide and power out of gaps. then u need diff replacements

According to the 2009 Ford Fusion Owner Guide :

With engine oil filter change :

The 3.0 liter DOHC , Duratec engine takes ( 6.0 U.S. quarts )

Remove - battery cable Raise and support vehicle if needed Disconnect wiring at top of starter Remove starter mounting bolts Remove starter

Start with a complete tune up including spark plug wires.

I had the same problem in my truck. It is the connection at the driver side seat belt. It still happens the odd time in my truck if I adjust my seat all the way forward and then back. It is just a bad connection at the wiring harness that hooks up to the seatbelt. Beleive it or not, I was told the air bag deployment is based on the seatbelt, so that is why that harness is related to your problem Or at least in my case anyway. I have a 200 Ranger. The airbag light, on the dash, was on when I bought it, used. I was able to find the answer on the Ranger forum. Here it is. If the light is out for the switch to disable the right aribag (under the center of the dash) it causes the complete airbag system to not work. I went to radio shack and bought a bulb and soldered it in place of the other bulb and everything works fine. The Radio Shack number is 272-1099 . They come in a pack of three, red, green, and white. I used the white one. Think the cost was $1.50 or there about. If you take it in to a garage it may cost you $150 or more. They will change the whole assembly.

195-210 Coling fan should start at approx. 235 (F)

Normally this is located inside the valve body of the transmission, the valve body is located inside the case & pan.

According to the 1998 Ford Ranger Owner Guide :

With engine oil filter change :

The 3.0 liter V6 engine takes ( 4.5 U.S. quarts of 5W-30 )

4.5 quarts ( 4.3 liters ) with engine oil filter change

On a 2004 Ford Ranger ( for the 3.0 and 4.0 liter V6 engines )

In the power distribution box ( which is " live " ) in the engine compartment

( # 47 is the PCM relay )

( # 48A is the fuel pump relay )

the tps on a 93 2.3 is located on top of the throttle body...good luck in trying to change it ...its not easy ..

Open the driver's door and look on the end of the door . You should find a sticker with the recommended tire size and inflation pressure.

No.

According to one of Fords websites :

For a 2009 Ford Ranger ( 2.3 liter gasoline four cylinder engine )

( Motorcraft FL-910 engine oil filter )

34-36 ft pounds

It's hard to reach. You need a 12mm socket and a metric Allen wrench set that's somewhat long. I just replaced mine. It was difficult. Remove the fan. Remove the air inductions. I took off the alternator belt too. Some of those bolts were practically seized in there. Using anti-seize paste is recommended on reinstallation. You don't have to remove the water pump. The themostat is above the pump, at about two o'clock. I used a backflush kit too to clean the system out. Those kits are at all auto part stores. Prestone makes them.

AND DON'T DUMP THE ANTIFREEZE!! IT'S HIGHLY TOXIC. Ethylene Glycol breaks down into formaldehyde. It's sweet. Pets drink it and die of kidney failure. It takes only a teaspoon. Service stations that have a garage are required by law to accept your antifreeze. They will want to know that there's no other garbage in it, though, (like oil).

Most are located in a removable housing at the engine end of the upper radiator hose

Personality disorders

Should be same fuse as turn signals look under hood at fuse panel on drivers side beside battery under black cover. Under the cover will tell you which one it is.

Inside the fuel tank combined with the fuel gauge sending unit

I had the same problem. No easy fix. The trannie needs to be taken apart and the shift bracket( inside) has to be re welded. It cost me $11oo.00. You may want to take a chance on a used trannie. Parts could not be found to replace the bracket. Bill ________________________________________________________

OH HECK NO! At least not without checking the following: I have a 95, and twice now mine has done exactly what you describe, only it was free to fix and took about 30 seconds. Under the car, (yeah, you gotta get under it, but straddle a narrow ditch and you have room, or jack one side up) look for the shifting bar. It runs from directly underneath your shifter straight ahead to the transmission, and is simply a steel bar, nothing fancy. Check either end of it to see if the bar has simply come loose from the shifter bottom or the back of the shifter thingy on the transmission. The first time this happened, the bolt fell out of the bar at the shifter. The second time it had fallen out from the other end, at the transmission. I used a zip-tie to get myself home the first time, and a piece of wire the second time. Found a proper bolt and nut and fixed it in no time. I even inserted a few tubular spacers on the front bracket (around the bolt) to get rid of some slop, and MAN it took all of the looseness out of my shifter and made my car literally "click" into gear! Get the slop out! Anyway, I hope the dude above didn't have the same problem, and some unscrupulous mechanic just took him for a ride.

the clunk you,re hearing when turning could be either the stabilizer bar is loose or it,s bushings are worn. Also if your vehicle is equipped with rear struts (instead of coil or leaf springs) they could be worn or out of allignment. Rear struts must be alligned from time to time just like the front end on vehicles so equiped.
Hope this helps and good luck,
mannsvillain

Water

same way as any other block heater...

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Your Ford Ranger block heater is just like the heating element in an electric

kettle . As long as the electric block heater is plugged in to an electric

outlet that has power to it , the block heater keeps on heating the engine

coolant if everything is working correctly

Fuel filter is plugged or fuel line is cinked, after highway driving where fuel flow is greatest the pump cannot maintaine the flow and engine "runs out of gas" after an hour the fuel line is full again by gravity.

Run with a greater than half a tank until you get it fixed

You might have a faulty TFI (Thick Film Integrated) ignition module. Sometimes it is located on the distributor and sometimes attached to the engine compartment of the vehicle. If it is damaged and becomes overheated, the module will intermittently lose power as it heats up and then finally die on you. It takes about an hour for the module to cool down.

My guess is the fuel filter and or pump. the faster you go, the more fuel your engine requires. Thus, if the flow is restricted your engine may stall.