Ford Tempo

I would start by looking for worn vacum line to modulator. Or the modulator could be bad. the modulator is located on the transmission which tells the transmission to shift when the vacum pulls a diaphragm inside the modulator a certain distance. some are adjustable with a flat blade screw i believe.

. If you have the 4-port master cylinder, the bottom ports go to the rear brakes & the upper side ports go to the front brakes.

6 3

8 time or 8 time.

the time of a minuet

You might have to take the motor mounts bolt and disconnect the exhaust after the Y and at the monifolds and lift the motor slightly to get the starter out.

Sounds like you ave a misfire. Could be as simple as needing a tune-up.

No.

The Ranger/Mustang/Fairmont 2.3L are OHC and only came in RWD cars

Nowhere near similar

Disconnect the - battery cable

Raise and support the vehicle

Disconnect the wiring at the top of starter

Remove starter mounting bolts

Remove starter

I found a great wiring resource for a Ford 1989 Tempo and it also covers multiple years at:

www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/12/79/e5/0900823d801279e5/repairInfoPages.htm

Thanks again Auto Zone.

I did this not too long ago on my '92 Tempo GL.

The steps should be the same: 1) jack up the car under the frame..not the suspension

2) remove the wheel

3) remove the (2 or 3) bolts that connect the strut to the suspension

4) get inside the trunk and remove the carpetting. it's a bit of a challenge and wears ya out quick! remove the OUTER 2 BOLTS ONLY. don't even touch the inner cause that holds the spring in place which is under a heck of a lotta pressure.

5) take out the strut assembly

6) if you plan to keep the old spring with the new strut, then use a spring compression tool and remove it from the strut

7) line up the spring in the new strut and put it together

8) release compression tool when strut is secured safely and correctly

9) line in up back into the rear well and only start the top 2 bolts (this way you have some play in the strut to get it back together.

10) then line up and bolt in the suspension or whatever

11) then tighten those 2 bolts at the top from inside the trunk

12) try to get the brake drum as vertical and as close to "normal" as possible

13) put the wheel back on

14) let the jack down. Congrats..you're half way done. Just so ya know it would about make a preacher cuss if you don't have the right tools. IMPORTANT!!! -->make sure you have an alignment done or it will eat up your tires. most people think that just cause they are the rear wheels they dont need it, WRONG! they need it just as much as the front wheels. If you're interested, visit either www.tempotopaz.com or ttowners.com

I'm a part of both car sites, there is A LOT of info on these 2 sites!! HOPE I HELPED..

Other than listening for data noise when set to "Monitor", there's no way to test a digital extension with an analog device.

The 'test set' would have to made specifically for the digital system being used.

It is under the driver's seat.

According to my Chilton's Auto Repair Manual :

For the 1991 Ford Tempo , 2.3 litre four cylinder engine :

( 5.0 US. quarts with engine oil filter change )

# Install belt on to all pulleys except belt tensioner # Using the extension insert it into the belt tensioner and push away from you.Carefully install the ribbed belt on the tensioner and slowly allow the extension to move toward you as tension is placed on the belt # Remove extension from belt tensioner and inspect the belt to be sure it is seated correctly on all the pulleys if not remove belt and reinstall

take the panel below the steering column off it is under there. should be small screw on the bottom of the panel & a couple clips holding it on top. pullon panel carefully to get the top to come off

Were is the ac drain on a ford tempo,

Have you checked that the PCV is working. ( positive crankcase ventilation ) This valve when working sounds like a rattle snake when you take it off and shake it. If you remove it while the engine is running and block it, the engine will slow down due to restricted vacum, then when you put it back in it will pull air from the engine.

It is under the hood, on the passangers side, right above the wheel well.

with a push button directly under the defroster control

I know this will sound odd check Ign. switch I couldn't remove keys and had switch repaired and it started working again. go figure?

Binding throtle linkage or idle control solonoid not working.

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With mine it was the IAVC(idle air valve control) on my 94 2.3L Tempo. I got the part used for $10 at junkyard($54 new at Knetch's). On some, the springs stick so you can try spraying it with carb cleaner to loosen them up. Although on mine, the springs moved but you could blow on one end and air came out the other side. On the "new" IAVC part, air wouldn't pass through but fixed the high idle perfectly! Before you take it out, try tapping it with a hammer to see if it temporarily changes the idle any. If so, that is certain to be your culprit for sure! It was mine!

Pop the hood. Now look down at the turn signal lense from directly above the lense. You will see two screws that are holding the lense in place. Remove those screws and then just pull on the lense. Once out change the bulb with a 2057NA bulb then reassemble.

You probably have a socket grounding out.

It is possible that the temperature gauge has stopped working in a 1992 Tempo due to a blown fuse. It is also possible that the temperature gauge stopped working do to the temperature sensor in the engine having a short.

one reason could be the clutch, or pressure plate dont buy any cluthes or cluth kits from autozone!!!!!! could be a blown fuse. fuse has to be working to get out of park. Depends what you mean by "stick". There are two cables involving the shift mechanism. 1. Transmission Shifter cable 2. Park Ignition Key release cable (not sure what it is called) part of shifter thumb release assembly Can you depress the stick shifter release button and have any movement of the shifter? Have you noticed any difficulty in moving shifter over the last several months? (Word of caution here!!! the shifter mounting assembly is made of thin cast white metal. if you have a seized cable and try to pull shifter very hard. It will break ! Requiring a trip the the local wrecker to find this part! 8) Most likely you have a damaged shifter cable that has finally seized. The rubber coating if cut or slashed will allow water inside cable. Rust begins soon after.