Ford Thunderbird

You can't get there from here. The dash has got to come out, or at least partially, enough to work in behind it. I usually don't remove a dash entirely. I usually take it loose enough to "swing" it out of my way, lay it over on the passenger's side seat. I squeeze in behind the dash to access the heater core. As far as the A/C is concerned, I can't remember that far back to rememeber which side of the firewall that evap core is. If it is outside the firewall, under the hood, then you shouldn't have to touch the A/C anyway, but if it is inside the passenger's compartment, in the same box as the heater core, you have to discharge it.

The fastest way for my 96 T-Bird is to disconnect my battery for about 1 minute. HOWEVER, if there truly is a problem, you should expect the light to come back on soon. I had the light come on when I had not driven the car for a couple of weeks. Then engine ran rough for the first couple of minutes and the light came on. I disconnected the battery and that solved it. First you need to find the code in the computer that is causing it to be on The simplest thing is to check the aircleaner, a fairly clean air cleaner caused the check engine light to stay lit, when it was replaced the light worked as it is supposed to. Pull the codes from the computer, match the code to the troubleshooting procedure, follow the procedure to find the source. Repair the source, light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self tests the computer runs the car through a drive cycle, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. Therefore, another problem may exist. It is emission related. OR hook up a scanner that is capable of clearing codes, and hope that none are still active. The " check engine light" is by far one of the most misunderstood technological advances by the public. I am sure I will revise this as time goes on, as it is an in-depth understanding for the public. It is a warning light that is illuminated when there is a problem with the EMISSION SYSTEM only. Emission system being the pollution control system. Don't get a hard on against it as it is a good thing once you understand it. One point that was brought up a a recent meeting of technicians was that the amount of hydrocarbons is greater when the gas cap is left off than when the engine is running. Hydrocarbons are part of pollution emitted as gasoline evaporates. Going a step farther, one facet of the emission system is the "Evaporative" portion. This is when the fumes from the gasoline are leaking from the system into the outside air. This is one part of the emission system that can trigger a check engine light. I would say that about 7% of the vehicles that have a check engine light are the result of a loose or inadequate gas cap. But understand that many scenarios are possible with the "check engine light" The vehicle's powertrain computer (note that some vehicles have 17 different computers) will run a series of self-tests. They will only run under certain criteria. And they can be vastly different from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some self-tests are not run until preceding ones have run successfully. So if there is a problem in one particular area that is preventing another self test from running, you can have a situation where one problem is fixed, but another still exists. If you fix a problem and drive the car through a drive cycle that sets the monitor (or self test) the light will go off as it passes that criteria that triggered it in the first place. After 1996, the auto industry went to a idea called OBD II (on board diagnostics). This was to get all the manufacturers onto a similar plane for troubleshooting and powertrain control. While they still differ vastly, many corrections and adaptations were made for technicians to better fix the check engine light problems. Prior to this there were so many different and poor troubleshooting data from a check engine light problem that resolving the problem was much more difficult. Many early warning light of this nature were set to illuminate based on mileage. An Oxygen sensor was one of the things that were meant to be replaced when that mileage was hit. This is much like many current "Change oil lights? that are set based on a pre-set mileage. Actually the fastest way is to disconect the negative side of battery. Then turn the key in the ignition like you were starting the car. Do this for 10 to 15 sec. This will resest the computer. If light keeps coming on go to an autozone or checker and the will check the codes for free.

Ford didnt produce a 1998 thunderbird

you might be able to just go through the back of the glovebox to get to the heater core

passenger side kick panel

There are two cable connectors. One will have two wires with blue/red strip and black wire. The black wire is the 12 volt power source and the blue/red strip is for the internal radio back light. The other connector may consist of either 2 wires or 4 wires depending on if the car has the optional rear speaker. These wires are black with a green strip. The only other connection is the antenna lead which plugs into the rear of the radio.

no. this window is locked on a track and connected to cables or gears. If you take everything apart and shim up the window only and still it does not come open easily.

On a 1996 Ford Thunderbird :

Under the instrument panel , to the left of the steering column ( I'm not sure if it has a cover on it )

Also , the Power Distribution Box ( which is " live " ) is located in the engine compartment , on the drivers side

Should be right in the top of one of the valve-covers, with a 3/4" hose connected to it.

possible cause of high idle could be that your idle contol switch / valve has carbon build up on it. remove and clean with carburetor cleaner. let it dry completely before re-installing it. idle should come down if not it has probably gone bad and need to be replaced.

Pull of the plastic cover at the lower driver side of windshield remove the single bolt holding the wiper are to the motor remove the three bolts holding the wiper motor in place grab a new motor and reverse your order. 4 bolts total, i think 8mm and 10mm.

You can't, the belt is called a serpentene belt, you have to replace the belt.

well i just bought a 1968 thunderbird and it has a 460ci from a newer truck. so id say yes

The Stock radio has two holes on either side of the unit. there are tools called "din" tools that you just stick in there, put pressure on them, and the stock radio just lifts out.

I happen to know this because everywhere i go to look up how to remove my radio, it gives me this information. However, I'm trying to find out how to remove my aftermarket one that came with the car.

after the stock one is out, you just hook up the harness to one you buy for like 10 bucks, and buy a spacer/adapter so the radio fits right.

im sorry if i dont help, but i thought i could

Make sure all bulbs are working Replace turn signal flasher

There isn't one.

There are seven vacuum lines only six are used, looking from the back of the unit going left to right ,bottom four 1.Dark Green,2.Red,3.Violet,4. sealed[ not used],top 3,5.Brown,6.Yellow,7.Light Green

It is located on the passenger side fender wall right beside the air filter,it is little rectangular box with EEC written on it.

The neutral safety switch is on the drivers side of the transmission. It is a black box where the shifter arm connects to the transmission.

ask professional

the way its usally done on most cars is jack up car saftly with jack stands or something unbolt transmisssion oil pan be care not to tilt fluid will dump all over you drain fluid put on new gasket & sealer put pan back on

fill with new fluid from under hood wherever filler is located for your car

if u want to avoid this next time u can buy an oil pan plug kit so u dont have to take of pan next time just drill a hole install plug follow there directions