Geo Metro

Number one cylinder is the one closest to the passenger side fender.

There is quite a bit of stuff involved in changing a clutch. If you are not mechanically inclined I would not recommend changing a clutch if you have never messed with a lot of detailed stuff. There will be parts that must come off of the engine the entire air cleaner assembly will need to come off. You will have to get the actual transaxle separated from the motor just to access the clutch this will also require taking the halfshafts out of the transaxle. Once you remove the entire transaxle you will see the pressure plate. On the inside of the pressure plate is the clutch plate. All attached to the flywheel. I have done one Geo Metro clutch and several others. I am very experienced and it still takes me about 6 1/2 by myself to do one. I would not recommend doing this if you arent mechanically inclined.

Thanks

Justin

I can only speak for the 89-94 1.0L, if this is the same model seriously consider replacing the timing belt also. Reason: Same amount of work, only costs an extra $20, should be changed every 60k anyway (is probably overdue now), and could save you alot of time, trouble and money if your engine gets ruined. I only paid $15 for my 94 for this exact reason (slipped belt), and the new motor cost $500.

Strip the splash guard on the underside. Remove the air filter assembly, remove the belts (both), remove the five crank pully bolts, remove the four water pump pully bolts. Remove the bracket bolt to the oil dipstick. remove all timing cover bolts. With a piece of paper and pencil make a diagram of how the spring slide bracket, and tensioner roller are positioned on the block. That may sound stupid, but once off those parts can be confusing to re-orient correctly. Mark the crank cog and block with a felt marker, and the same on the cam cog and block, in case the engine gets turned a little while you work. remove the timing belt. remove the water pump bolts, now you can see the four bolts that make you have to take off the timing belt roller. You can do it without pulling the belt, but the roller has to come of anyway, which is pretty much like pulling the timing belt, so go ahead and buy a new one, unless you've had it changed in the last 10-30k. remove the water pump bolts, and pump. gently scrape clean all gasket material. DO NOT NOT SAND! new gasket, new pump. when installing the pump start with the bolts (and nut) in the middle, and work to the outside. If you miss any pump bolts, even the nut in the middle, the pump will leak. Never forget you are working with aluminum. When tightening the timing belt, make sure it is good and tight, but not over tight, and triple check timing marks. Installation is the reverse of removal.

hi.. I have a geo metro 1.0 1995 my engine computer is: 3392050G20 FED M.T (manual trans) anyway u can check out in www.ecmecu.com/geo. victor.

From the 1993 Chevy shop manual (has worked on my 91) you slide a thin rag behind the handle (not the plastic piece behind it) at the non-handle round end and slide it back and forth while pulling up and out as doing it. Believe it or not it removes the clip and the handle pops off!

Turn the distributer to the right very slightly

If the pedal falls to the floor while pumping, you have a very dangerous condition. The master cylinder is bad and needs replaced...

If the pedal is just hard and doesn't seem to brake until you jam on it a few times, then you have maybe ice in the drums or bad calipers/wheel cyl. with dirt and wear on the pistons

If you were just using rims and not tires you might get away with 24". Otherwise, you can put on whatever will fit with the proper tire size..... Here's a couple of sizes... 155 80R13 (stock on most) 195 60R14 185 60R15

Mine has done this too. The answer is that the parking pin and the locking mechanism that holds the shifter in gear jams up.

I fix this by putting one hand on one side of the shifter, and slamming the button on the other side between the palms of my hands. Then, I yank it into gear. It's crude, but it works.. The only way I know to fix this is to take the assembly apart and round the latch so it doesn't jam as easily.

The 1995 Metros only had a 10.9gal capacity if this helps

If it has high mileage it may be pushing oil past the piston rings. When a valve job is done to a high mileage motor it tends to worsen a oil consumption problem because it seals the top end of the motor but the bottom end(rings,pistons) cannot hold the extra pressure caused by the now more efficient top end.The tune-up has no bearing on this problem. I would use no less then a 10w40 (preferably 20w50) oil with a can of STP.This will help you to get by.

Your adjustment isn't on the pedal, it's an adjusting nut on the end of the cable on the transmission. If the adjustment on the "engine" (do you actually mean the cable on the transmission?) is out all the way, then it is time for a new clutch. Just read the listings on here for clutch removal. It should only take about 30 minutes unless you are a complete idiot, then it will be about 12 hours.

a small metal rectangle ( example 1/4" x 1/4" x 1 long ) that locks a wheel or pulley from rotating on a shaft.

They are located under the dash on the drivers side. You just plug them in the same way you pull them out.

4x100

I know mine is under the hood and I have a 97 geo metro so you may want to start there.

It could be one of two things.

1. Your transmission has given out and needs to be replaced but that is unikely because at least one gear will somewhat work if it gives out.

2. There is little to no transmission fluid in the transmission and it needs fluid. This seems more likely because older metros tend to leak transmission fluid.

Buy the manual. If you have never attempted this before and can't do it by reading the manual, then don't try it. It's not worth screwing up and killing someone.

There is a trick to removing the sealed beam headlight on a 94 Geo Metro.

The black plastic decorative housing is in the way of being able to swap out your dead sealed beam headlight with a new one. (NOTE - Some 94 Geo Metros came with the newer style headlights where just the bulb is replaced. If you have a plastic lens that is curved, then you just need to replace the bulb. This article pertains to the rectangular sealed beam headlight - the older-style headlights that have a flat glass lens.)

To begin, remove the two screws at the top of the black plastic decorative housing. Next, you will need to remove the bottom screw that is on the underside. This screw is accessed from underneath the car - the screw is located toward the lower outside front edge of the black plastic housing. Once you get this bottom screw out, you're almost ready for the trick. The trick involves the one remaining screw. You don't remove it. That's a good thing, because it's close to impossible to remove, because the head of the screw has about an inch of clearance from the steel of the bumper!

Instead of removing this last screw, the black plastic housing is designed to PIVOT on this point. Yup. That's the trick. Don't try to remove this last screw. Instead, carefully twist the housing to pivot off this point. The headlight will probably be in the way (especially the aiming tips, which are the glass tips that stick out on the front surface of the headlight). But you can carefully work the edge of black plastic housing past these tips.

You're almost home free. You've got the headlight bezel to remove - four screws, one at each corner. A 8 or 10 inch long philips head screwdriver will make it pretty easy to get at the bottom two screws. This bezel is a kind of "ring" that surrounds the headlight. It attaches to the "headlight bucket" with these 4 screws. Remove the bezel.

Once you've got the bezel out, the headlight can be unplugged from the back. A gentle back-and-forth and side-to-side motion will help break the connector loose from the dead headlight. The old headlight will slip out at an angle past the black plastic housing. Slip the new headlight in the same way the old one came out, and connect the plug, seating it firmly. Back-n-forth and side-to-side pressure will help fully seat the connector. Slide the bezel back around the edge of the headlight and secure with the 4 screws. Pivot the black plastic housing back in place, and reinstall the 3 screws - and voila! You're done.

Should be listed in the owner's manual. If you don't have one and can't find one from a dealership it may be best to pick up a Hayne's or Chilton's manual for a few bucks.

Not sure, but I think it should be located on the clutch pedal arm under the dash. Kind of like your brakelight switch.

Fuel injection

Not aware of a torque rating however a bit of common sense applies here. These "acorn' nuts can only be screwed on so far being closed end nuts. Also when tightening these nuts you are compressing a rubber gasket. In practical terms when it begins to feel tight it probably is and you need to stop. If there IS a torque spec for those nuts it will be expressed in inch pounds. That's a SMALL amount of tightening.

4 ft-lbs (maybe 14) be careful if you break the weak aluminum walls of the valve cover dished area, JB weld won't help you maintain vacuum, and you will spend a year in the Junkyards looking for a new one like me.

-6 degrees BTDC