Geo

Its on the Air box

your trans axle has nothing to do with you losing 2nd gear

In the inside fuse pannel

Bad/loose fan belt, bad thermostat, low coolant level, plugged/bad radiator, maybe water pump is out.

on my 93 geo tracker lsi 5 speed manual with a 1.6 liter 4 cyl i get about 45 miles to the gallon on the highway and about 35 in town

MEM ORANGE + PWR YELLOW + GND BLACK - ILL GRAY + DIM BROWN ANT PINK + RF LT GRN + RF DK GRN - LF TAN + LF GRAY - RR DK BLUE + RR LT BLUE - LR BROWN + LR YELLOW -

This is a major overhaul. You must remove the intake manifold, exhaust manifold, oil pan, and head. You then must remove the pistons, install the rings on pistons, reinstall the pistons, along with all bearings, and reassemble the engine. If you wish to attempt this repair there is way too much to this to try and describe in detail here. I suggest you purchase a repair manual.

Geo is a part of GM.

The Geo Prism was a rebadged Toyota Corolla. The Geo Metro was a rebadged Suzuki Swift. The Geo Tracker was a rebadged Suzuki Sidekick. The Geo Storm was a rebadged Isuzu Impulse. The Geo Spectrum was a rebadged Isuzu I-Mark.

another 95 Geo- maybe a ford aspire, a old dodge colt or a lawnmower.

Looking from the front of the vehicle it is on the right hand side underneath and to the left of the brake booster (large diameter canister with the master brake cylinder mounted on it). The fuel filter is a cylinder about 4 inches in diameter and about 5 to 6 inches tall. It has an inlet and outlet fuel line attached to it. It is attached to the firewall with with 2 bolts. If you replace it go to Toyota or Chevrolet. I tried an aftermarket filter and the bolt holes did not line up properly so I went to Toyota.

look for a reset button, either on a tire well or on the steering column on the top May require insertion of spare fuse into special slot in fuseholder to read code. Clear code by temporarily cutting power (easily done by removing negative battery cable. Answer--- If you or a friend has a hand held OBD-II scanner, just connect it to your data link and use it to clear the codes.

It's not that complicated. Take a shop towel or wash cloth and gently slide it behind your window crank handle. This will take a little patience but be persistent. This will pop up a small wire clip far enough for you to put a small screwdriver or needle nose plier to it and remove it. Then you unscrew any Phillips head screw you see holding the panel on. Next pull the door handle out like you're opening it to exit the car and there should be a Phillips head screw behind it. Remove it. On to the arm rest. There should be a couple of holes with recessed screws in them. If not, pop the top of the armrest loose and look inside for the screws. Remove them. Next step is very critical that you take your time with. Making sure you've removed all screws, gently pull on the lower outside corner of the door panel and it should start coming loose. There are several plastic pins that hold it on and you should be able to remove them with steady pressure, one at a time. If you get in a hurry and start pulling hard, you'll bust the fiberboard on the panel and have to epoxy the pins back in. Once you get them all loose, simply lift up and out on the panel and it should come loose. If not, you may have to just stick the window handle on and roll the window down. Once you put it back in place, the last step should be installing the window handle. Put the spring clip back in the grooves on the back of the handle, place it on the handle pin and give it a good whack with the palm of your hand. Bang, you're finished.

The Prizm originally came in three trim levels Base, LSi and the short lived GSi. The LSi version came with more standard equipment than the bast model it also had colored bumpers instead of the black ones the base model offered. The GSi model was pure sport oriented it offered a beefed up suspension, four wheel disc brakes, alloy wheels, rear spoiler, red decal graphics, sport steering wheel, optional four speed automatic not available on the base model and the engine had a lot more grunt than the base model 130hp vs 102. The GSi model is very rare and was only produced from 1990-1992.

I had similar problem with a 96... it was an awful valve train rattle under load and high speed... got anew valve train at the junk yard and fixed it right up. I's normally caused by a bad lifter which is a small button in the rockers and very expensive if you don't know which one is bad. == == you need a valve adjustment, or you have piston slap caused by worn piston rings do you think it could also be caused by a bad rod or main bearing?

Yes, it could be a connecting rod, in which case it will be most noticeable at higher rpm's (2500 - 4500) and the engine is running free. It would be much less noticeable if the engine is under a load. If it is a main bearing it would be more of a 'growl' type of knock, and you would have very low oil pressure. The light would likely be lit when the engine is warm and idling.

== == == ==

If a shop did it probably about 3 to 4 hours. I have not done this yet but I recently changed the water pump on a 1994 1.6L Prizm. It took me 5 to 6 hours. The steps are similar (lots of stuff to take off) but to change the timing belt you will need to remove the crankshaft pulley and lower timing belt cover. The hardest part might be getting the pulley off since you may need to take off the tire and go through the wheel well. I may do this in the future. For me it will probably take 6 to 7 hours.

hi there if i remember the distributor is troublesome and you have to replace the whole thing

The quick answer is...set motor on top dead center, put the distributer in place making sure the cross ridge of the shaft fits in the slot in the camshaft. That slot is slightly off center and the distributer will only go in one way. When you put it in place, if it doesn't go right in place without forcing it, turn the rotor 1/2 turn. Once in place, make sure the rotor points at #1 spark plug wire. Mr Geo Metro leehduncan@verizon.net

blown crankshaft oil seals or water in fuel/oil or CDI faulty or low battery acting like a load on the electrical system.

there is a answer on robbietherobot.com. Edited: No there isn't. That's spam.

No, this is not an interference engine.

very easy. 4 bolts hold the cover down. They are around 4 inches long and have threads only at the end. (large space between top of cover and actual section it threads into).

There will likely be a few things bolted to the top of it, like a carburetor, ignition wire harness... Just unbolt them and move out of the way. Don't pull the bolts all the way out, the threads will damage the gaskets that seal the bolts.

The cover comes straight up. Be careful not to get any dirt into the exposed camshaft and rocker arms...

The gasket is u shaped and stuck onto the valve cover itself. Clean both surfaces and run a thin layer of oil or gasket sealer across the new gasket with your finger before you put the cover back on. Check the bolt gaskets as well (4 rubber washers set into the valve cover) Set it in place and hand thread the bolts into the header as much as you can before using a wrench. Careful not to cross thread, torque to about 10-15 lbs per foot. (basically hand tight and a quarter turn more. Don't over tighten or you'll break the bolt seals, or even possibly cause header damage.

how much cost to change a clutch for a geo prizm 1995

They were made from 1989 until 2002

The 1989-94 Geo Metro is the same car as a Suzuki Swift or the Pontiac Firefly. Most parts on those cars would be compatible.

I don't know about the Spectrum. But on a 3 cylinder Metro it 54 foot pounds and on the Sprint it's 48. Depending on which engine you have, you could probably use these specs.