GMC Jimmy

well if you dont see it then i highly doubt you even have 4x4 its right in front of your face on the dash on the right side of the steering wheel above your headunit

This fuel pressure regulator is a component part of the SFI (sequential fuel injection) assembly, sometimes referred to as "spider". It resides inside of the air intake plenum and is accessed by removing the upper half of the intake.

If the cable is broken at the handle in the car, you may be able to grap the broken cable with a pair of locking pliers. If you can, pull it while you have someone pushing down on the hood. That will make it easier for it to unlatch. If it's broken where you can't reach it, oh boy, you may be able to grab the cable housing through the grill, cut it and grab the inner cable that way. Hope this helps. Good luck.

1

I can't say for sure the size of a 1997 gas tank, but a 1996 tank is 20 U.S. gallons. There was no major redesign between 96 and 97, so I'd wager that they are the same. - Mr. Dog The '97 Jimmy has a 17 gallon gas tank. Actually the size of a gas tank on a 1997 Jimmy is exactly 19 gallons US. I just purchased a used one and even got the original manual for it, the owners manual says it is 19 US Gallons. And there you have it, New 1997 GMC "Black" Jimmy owner

Yes otherwise it would not pump.Now it should not be lose, but with some effort it should move then retract the the position before you moved it.

Is your transmission fluid full?

4 Door - 18 Gallons 2 Door - 19 Gallons

the car is smoking on the left side is it the freeze plug?

No speacial tool required. Use a standard socket driver I believe its 3/8 but may be 1/2" There is a square punched out of the tensioner to receive it. Applying torque with the socket wrench will relieve tension to allow you to slip the belt off or the new belt on. repair in minutes

Cheers

If you are replacing it with a new one, cut the wires off at the sensor so you can slip a 7/8" box wrench over it. It may take some pressure to break it loose but it will. Remember, lefty loosey, righty tighty. Also bank 1 sensor 1 would be the first sensor located on the drivers side exhaust after the engine.

it depends if it is 4X4 if so they are pressure fitted and you need to take the "A" arm off and press it out using a hydrolic press if you are not equiped bring it in, do not atempt try it with a hammer you may make it worse

Most likely your problem is just the switch itself that controls the speed of the fan or a fuse. These are the easiest and cheapest things to check first. You can get the swithc at a local parts store or from a GM dealer. If that doesn't work check for loose of broken wires. It all that fails replace the blower motor. Check the fuse first.

Most likely the shifter bushings are worn making it bind

It is on the top right rear corner of the engine. You will have to climb up on the engine to see it.

Inside left (drivers side) door on dash board under an access panel...

How do you change the abs pump on a 2001 gmc jimmy

5

Here's a couple [http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2040030 89 GMC Jimmy 1] [http://www.cardomain.com/ride/780540 89 GMC Jimmy 2] Good Luck and Remember.
Change Your Mind, Not Your Oil.
Use the First In Synthetic Motor Oil's.
See My Bio For more information.

On either side of the engine in between the exhaust manifold you wll find your boots.

When you stand directly in front of the truck the starter is on your left hand side where the motor and the transmission mount together its realy down there so and its hard to see considering your intake manifold is in the way but if you get under the truck you should be able to see it (PS if your taking the starter out you will most likely have to unbolt the trany from the motor and that can be a pain in the as$ When you stand directly in front of the truck the starter is on your left hand side where the motor and the transmission mount together its realy down there so and its hard to see considering your intake manifold is in the way but if you get under the truck you should be able to see it (PS if your taking the starter out you will most likely have to unbolt the trany from the motor and that can be a pain in the as$

The lines that run from the oil filter housing to the oil cooler in the radiator are fairly easy. Of course first you will drop the splash shield from underneath the truck, 6 bolts and its out of the way. Next you will remove the air cleaner assembly, loosen the hose clamps and work the intake boot loose from the intake muffler (long shallow plastic bit that runs over the radiator core support), there is a little hose running from the middle of the intake boot that will pop right out with a little twist and pull. once the intake boot is detached the air cleaner assembly slides right out of its groove in the core support and can be set aside. Now you should have access to the oil cooler line fittings where they attach to the radiator, I used a quality adjustable wrench so I can't tell you the size but they should not be torqued too tightly. You must loosen the fittings completely then pull the lines out. Where the lines attach to the oil filter housing you will need a 13 mm socket and a breaker bar or a long 13 mm wrench. There is only 1 bolt in the middle of the flange that holds both lines, this flange is part of the assembly you are changing. Once the bolt is removed you may need to give the lines a tap with the wrench or a hammer to knock them loose, then it's just a matter of maneuvering the old lines out and the new lines in. Mounting the new lines it the reverse of removing the old lines, be careful to not over tighten the fittings that attach the lines to the radiator, the radiator is plastic and could break if too much force is applied.

If you need to change the oil lines that run from the oil filter housing to the back left corner of the engine block, this is a whole different ball game. Removing the flange from the oil filter housing is just as easy as the lines that run from the radiator. The problem lies in where the lines connect to the engine block. If you have a 2 wheel drive Jimmy you are in luck, you may want to remove the front left tire and access the bolt that holds the flange from the wheel well, or you could use a creeper and get to it from underneath. There is a support that goes between the lines that will need to be removed to get them out. If you have a 4 wheel drive Jimmy then in my honest opinion you will want to have this done by a professional. The problem is that you can not access the bolt to detach the oil lines from the engine block due to the differential. You will need to either raise the engine up or lower the differential. Neither process should be attempted by a casual do-it-yourself type. If you are more experienced and have pulled engines before then you can have a go at it, you can detach the engine mount on the left side to jack it up a few inches and get clearance that way.

I hope this helps and good luck with your project.

You are probably out of antifreeze. Refill it only after it has cooled down to where you can put your hand on the engine without burning it. Then add coolant through the overflow spout. Then take it to a garage to find out where it is leaking. Monroe Muffler can check it. I WOULD TAKE IT SOMEWHERE ELSE FOR THE ACTUAL REPAIR BECAUSE THEY ARE VERY EXPENSIVE.

In need of advice on "How to" re. my 1998 Blazer. Hood cable appears "stretched" and fails to open to "receive" corresponding lach above. Results: Only closes to "secondary" laches. Complete and locking of hood, not possible. Would like to hear from anyone with either: replacement instruction or repair of same. ajm

on the 2001 gmc jimmy 4.3L v6 engine there are two air pump check valves: there's a pipe (about 1" diameter) that comes off each of the exhaust manifolds. the check valves are screwed onto those pipes. then a rubber hose (about 1.25" outside diameter) is clamped to the front of each check valve and connects to the air pump, which is hidden behind the vehicles grille in front of the radiator. typically, if you need to replace these (the life expectancy is about 3-4 years), it starts a chain of events that might be as follows: during the wintertime, water from the exhaust leaks through the worn out one-way check valves, and ends up in the air pump. the water freezes, and the ice jams the air pump, which may or may not ruin the air pump, but which usually blows the air pump fuse, which is impossible to find if you're rummaging around the passenger compartment fuse box or the under-hood fuse and relay box. it ain't there! so if you're looking under the hood leaning up against the front bumper, slide to your left around the passenger side headlight. now you should be looking at the battery, leaning up against the passenger side fender. look down between the battery and the fender. you have to push a few things out of the way, but there you will find a green 30 amp blade fuse (about 1" x 1" fuse--and $2.99 at autozone). this blown fuse should have triggered the check engine light and a dtc (diagnostic trouble code) of p0410 (secondary air injection system). for that vehicle there is a tsb (technical service bulletin) put out by gm (bulletin # 04-06-04-015; march 2004). if you want to print out some literature about all that I've mentioned just surf on over to http://www.obd-codes.com/p0410 for more links and documentation. my credentials: self-proclaimed auto mechanic for 26 years (sorry, no ase certification yet [but still trying to find time to study for the tests]) and college dropout (after 3 years of electrical engineering)--so, in other words, don't believe a word i say; just go to that website and get it straight from the horse's...

I jack up the front end and support vehicle with jack stands then remove drivers side wheel. Using a standard 3/8" drive 5/8" spark plug socket and a 3/8" drive 10" (or longer) wobble extension, go thru the inner fender opening and slip socket on to number 3 spark plug first then attach wobble extension and ratchet. I do this on both sides to R&R all the spark plugs.