GMC Suburban

To fix the 1995 Suburban instrument lights, check the light fuse first. Check the light switch. If these are ok, then check the instrument cluster for proper power and ground connections.

you have to take the grill off first..aprox 5 bolts on the top and 3 on the bottom..than un clip the grill..this gives you full access to the headlights..just unbolt and replace

Your hot dog truck may be shutting down because it is overheating. This is usually an indicator that there is a problem with your radiator.

1) Raise and support the front of the vehicle.

2) Support the lower control arm with a floor jack in excellent condition.

3) Remove the wheel.

4) If 4WD, remove the axle nut.

5) Remove brake caliper, pad holder, and rotor.

6) Unplug wheel speed sensor at connector and loosen all wire stays.

7) Loosen outer tie rod nut and remove tie rod from spindle. A hammer may be required to separate tie rod stud from spindle.

8) Remove cotter pin and loosen upper ball joint nut, then

strike spindle repeatedly with large hammer until ball joint comes

loose. Then remove nut.

9) Remove cotter pin and loosen lower ball joint nut, then

strike spindle repeatedly with large hammer until ball joint comes

loose. Then remove nut.

10) Move spindle away from truck.

I got my Ford Truck Maintenance CD on eBay.

It has good diagrams and procedures of most things.

I'm working on a free-play steering issue now.

Scott

See the 'Related Links' below.

Check this site. www.supermotors.net

I am not sure what kind comes in the bike stock, but i have the same exact bike and i run plugs coded B8ES. My local parts unlimited dealer knew exactly what i meant when i told him that. They run great. Hope this helps.

Perhaps a bad ignition switch?

I've got nearly the same engine, 6.2L Chevy diesel. Cranks fine on two 875 amp batteries, but they're only rated 700 cold cranking and are just plain insufficient--can't start it at all, unless I use the block heater. I say it needs somewhere between 700 and 875 cold cranking amps per battery.

OEM is two 750CCA batteries, for a total of 1500 cold cranking amps. I can testify 1750 amps fires it right up, 1400 will not spin it fast enough to start, even with a block heater.

Answer

General rule of thumb, on diesels get the largest CCA batteries that will fit in the space.

Well, assuming you've changed your oil, try disconnecting your battery, then reconnecting it. You'll lose your presets on the radio, but it should work. Otherwise, you may have a bad fuse.

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX ANSWER XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

On a car with a computer you should NEVER disconnect the battery in an attempt to clear any lights. It will not work as you can not erase the memory. You can possibly fry a computer with the power surge of reconnecting the battery. Press the gas pedal to the floor 3 times in 5 seconds with the key "ON" and the engine off.

Reset button in the fuse box. Look in the owners manual.

On my suburban,I had a faulty fuel gauge, so I had no idea how much gas was in the tank. found out that it was half full.first I disconnected the battery cables.for safety reasons,then put jack under the tank. before you began you must have a fuel line wrench to remove the fuel line at the tank.remove tank straps on my truck there was a plastic liner over tank. Now, disconnect the fill tube and vent tube that are connected to your diesel/gas fill cap from the two rubber hoses that attach to the top of the tank. A 5/6 socket and ratchet and a ratcheting wrench may both be needed (beats me how they were installed). Now, look for the cable that connects to the fuel level sender. In my case (1998 diesel) the connector was midway on the tops ide of the rear axle beam. If you wear a headlamp, disconnecting is easy (I suspect anyway as I did it without and could not see). The rubber fuel line hoses have connectors at both ends but these are like kind of rusty. In my case I am replacing the steel lines in the side rail to a point where I can service the corrosion prone steel lines, so I just cut the rubber fuel lines, making one longer than the other so I can tell return from supply later. As you lower the tank (empty is recommended!) you'll need to tilt the side opposite the fill downward and sort of slide it past the exhaust... a pry bar may be needed gently to loosen the tank from under the floor, but should not take much. I'll be removing rust and using rust reformer, priumer and underc oater to dress this thing up before it goes back in. is removed that,you may have to pry tank loose.very carefully,when it loosens, began lowering tank enough to get your hands on the top side to remove pump electrical plugs (like Isaid, see if you can disconnect by the axle), then carefully use fuel line wrench to remove both lines from tank,then remove return hoses.you will not have much room to work so you may have to do this with one hand, I did!! In addition to the tank removal, I needed to replace my fuel pump,I don't recommend this but it saved me from taking the tank down again,for pump removal,I cut a rectangle hole in the rear body of my truck over the fuel tank and put a sheet metal door there. now I can replace the pump without lowering that tank, also had bad wire connectors on the fuel pump,purchased 2 pumps before finding out the connectors were bad,Fixed it by wiring direct to pump.no more problems.Again dont try this without proper knowledge.I had to use caution when cutting the body, there are lines running below.it had to be measured to the tee!!

I was thinking the same question... My suburban has the same motor, its a 2500 4x4 too. It is dependable and runs strong, but you can also depend on the gas to suck too. I'd guess 10 mpg on mine. I don't really drive it much anymore to have a more acurate estimate, But I am sure I could get more if I replaced some parts that are old and well used. I have 278,000 miles on it.................the prior owner was a highway junkie or was it a road hore. I donno.

Take three weeks off work and real a lot of books

When you first plug in the heater have the hood open and in a few seconds you should be able to hear the heater kicking in. It will make a sizzling noise.

I'm not sure what you are actually asking. But, spanner is simply the British term for what we call a wrench. Haynes manuals use British terms like boot/trunk, bonnet/hood, etc. Hope this helps. PreachJohn -- If you're asking what I was asking (and figured out) you're referring to that odd hooked "pin spanner". The trick for me was to figure out what I was supposed to hook the spanner onto and then twist like a normal wrench. I was trying to adjust the shocks on my motorcycle and it became much easier when I noticed the gear-like ring below the springs that worked admirably for getting a decent grip with the spanner to twist the adjustment ring.

My door latch also broke (small washer pressed on a rivet popped off). I had to remove the inner trim panel and peel away the plastic sheeting to access the door latch lock rods. A new door latch from GM cost me about $40 and I spent a half hour installing it. Hope this helps.

the fuel pump is located in the fuel tank, but the fuel pump relay is under the hood with the fuses. Drivers side near the firewall. It is under a black plastic cover.

i have had an antifreze leak also but at the front it was the intake gaskets and have two frends with tahoes that needed intake gaskets also

no as long as the engine is running the pump needss to remain on

Attached to the blower motor under the passenger dash

It's fairly easy and you'll spend about 30 minutes if you're handy with screwdriver. Read the entire instructions first, so you'll have everything you'll need on hand.

Place the vehicle on a flat area and set the parking brake. Chock the wheels. Use the tilt steering wheel control to move the steering wheel to it's lowest position and lock there. Insert your key and turn far enough to be able to shift gearshift to 1st gear (the lowest position). Use a short #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the 2 screws located above the instrument panel. On the left side of the dashboard, remove the small panel with the headlight and dimmer control. I could do mine with my fingertips and some moderate pressure. You can unplug the wires to this control with minimal effort. Find the release tab on each, depress it and firmly remove each connector without putting too much strain on the wires. Make a note where each connector went. Remove the 3rd screw holding the trim piece in place. Carefully remove the trim, it's plastic, and you may also have to pull out the center trim piece overlapping the right side of the instrument panel trim to get it to come out. There are 4 electrical connectors on the right side of the instrument trim, find the release tab on each and remove. These are also keyed to only fit the proper connector, but you might want to label them to avoid trial and error later on.. You can now completely remove the instrument panel trim piece.

There will be 4 black #2 Phillips screws holding in the instrument cluster. Remove those with a magnetic tipped screwdriver to avoid dropping the screws into the nether regions of the dashboard. Once those are removed, you can carefully manipulate the cluster forward and lean it forward. If all you are doing is replacing light bulbs, you don't have to disconnect the connectors and remove the cluster completely. There are typically 6 larger black "twist-off" bulb holders that need a #194 bulb (very common, available at stores everywhere, including Wal-Mart). A quarter turn in a counter-clockwise direction will release the holder. The bulbs pull straight out and the new ones push straight in. Only do one at a time. Place the bulb holder in the appropriate hole and turn 1/4 turn clockwise. Repeat for the remainder of the bulbs with the black holders.

There will be approximately 12 much smaller bulb holders with a type 37 bulb. I've found that only my local Napa parts store sells these, so get a dozen of them ahead of time. Replace each bulb one at a time like the larger ones. There are typically 2 bulb holders that contain LEDs which you won't need to remove or replace. Once all the bulbs are replaced, you're ready to test and reassemble.

Position the instrument cluster back onto the mounting posts, but don't replace the screws yet. Shift the gear shirt to the "P" (park) position, put your foot on the brake, and turn the key off and then on to the light test position (do not start the vehicle!). Ensure your instrument panel lights all work. If so, drop the shifter back to 1st gear and replace the 4 screws holding the cluster in place. Here's where a magnetic tip screwdriver will really come in handy.

Maneuver the instrument cluster trim piece back into position and reconnect the connectors on the right side of the trim piece, holding the front of each connector with the palm of your hand for counterpressure. Don't force the plugs. They should go back in easily and you will feel a "click" when each is seated properly. Pull the lighting connectors through from the left side, then put the trim piece in it's final position. You will have to overlap the center console trim price to get the trim to fit perfectly. There will also be some rubber flaps over the steering column that will need to all align properly. Replace the 3 screws holding the trim piece in place. Reconnect the lighting panel connectors on the left of the trim piece and snap it back in place with only moder pressure.

Return your shift lever to Park "P" and reposition your tilt steering wheel to where it is comfortable for you.

Start the vehicle and ensure that every switch that you disconnected and reconnected is functional (typically headlights, dimmer, hazard flashers, rear wiper, rear wiper wash, rear defroster, security indicator). Turn off the vehicle, remove the wheel chocks, release the parking brake and perform a test drive to ensure that the instrument cluster gauges still function (tachometer, speedometer, fuel gauge, temperature sensor, batter voltage, etc.). If any of them do not function, you'll need to perform the maintenance function again to find any plugs not properly seated. However, if everything works well, you've just saved yourself about $100 in labor charges from your local mechanic.

The air bag sensors are on the frame so they will not be a problem. Mark

TH 700R-4

Which relay? If you mean the fuel pump relay, it is on the top of the fender well, located under the hood on the driver's side, in the power distribution box. Take the cover off the box (no tools required)and the relays are identified on the underside of the cover. The fuel pump relay should be close to the front of the box. To test it, have someone assist you by turning the ignition to the "on" position and then back off, while you have your finger on the top of the relay. You should feel and hear the relay click when cycling the ignition switch between the "on" and "off" positions. If that test works, unplug the relay and inspect the connection prongs for discoloration from overheating. If you notice any abnormalities, just replace the relay, because it may operate satisfactorily upon initial start up, but will probably fail after the engine is running a while.

I can't help with the fix, but do have a comment. The left rear door (very back door) was giving me problems also. I would have to hold the top of the left rear door in while opening the right door. After a couple of years of doing this I am now not able to open the left rear door at all. If I can find a way to fix your (and my problem) I will post it on this FAQ. I am assuming that it can be fixed with adjustments, but it could be something mechanical that is broken or worn out.

If it is the factory radio turn on the ingition and make sure the radio is turned off, push the set button. for the hour push the seek button, for the minute push the scan button, to end push the set button again.